The Project Pad

The trans diff combo MSRP is +28k USD. Worldimpex will cut you a deal for $25476.80 USD plus shipping.

Just write it off for your pre-taxes

Mushasho! wrote:In which cars do these components come stock in?

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PM me for details.

ChrisAudi80 wrote:It's going to go to 11? :jawdrop:

That is the goal... I can't say if it will happen, but I am going to do everything in my power to make sure it does happen (at least 10-10.5k). A little birdie told me about seeing 11,500 in person on a 20vt... that's why I have hope.

I'm sure a stroker and a 30r or even 35r would be a load of fun and probably perfect for the track, but the engineer in me can't resist the urge to build something so high strung.

dude, you fuuuuuucked.

I mean that in the best way possible. lol

Thank you

Chris, you should send your motor and head to M&B Cylinder heads in Portland Oregon. He built all the HPF's M3's that are making around 1000hp. He did the balance work on my motor and is going to do my head. He does all of Aaron's (speeding g-60) work and Aaron recommended him to me. He does amazing work!

hmm, hadn't thought about that. Good idea!

DEAR LORD! thing is sick chris as the suspention goes what i did was not only call them and tell them what i want but actually drew with magic marker where i wanted it cut so its idiot proof. sucks they messed up and its not like its a quick turn around from ship out to ship in.

Do you have yours in with the shortened housings as well yet?

I'd say he does from the way it looked at H20! Looked great BTW... took some pics Chris if you're interested! (iPhone pics that is....in the rain)

for sure, post them up

Here we go... Was hard to get good pics with people driving around the parking lot (traffic jam) car show style

I remember that car at h2Oi... we actually cruised next to each other for a little bit in NY or NJ... can't remember...

If it was cruising around at that ride height and not bottoming out, then that is sweeeet

One quick question for anyone to answer... the only problem I experienced while driving the car up and down the street over the weekend was that the brakes didn't work well with a lot of pedal effort. I am assuming they just need to be bled, does this sound right or could something else not be hooked up?

Check your PS fluid and connections to the bomb? Does your brake light come on? If the hydraulic assist is working and you need to bleed your brakes, the pedal would just easily go to the floor

OK, thought it might be hydro assist but I wasn't sure how that would affect it... I'm not exactly running power steering at the moment. So basically I just have to push really hard for temporary use (just moving it around, not using it on the street yet).

yea that would do it!

Chris, just catching up here...damn your thread moves fast...car sounds great! Good job!

re; brakes, sounds like your assist is not working right. Are you still hydraulic or on vacuum?

re: shocks...your thinking is correct if you wanted to slam the car, you'd have to have shorter housing(to allow for extreme lowering and maintaining some travel), and shorter shaft(to allow for some travel). Did you look at the short Koni shocks Derek and Haydn used, IIRC?

Thanks for the comments Peter.

The brakes are definitely because the hydro assist isn't hooked up. I just wasn't sure how much hydro assist assisted.

The shocks really aren't about slamming the car, but rather just gaining travel at the ride height I prefer (its not that ridiculously low). Considering the experience I had with Bilstein thus far, and the exact opposite and awesome experience I've had with the Konis on my BMW, I think I'll probably just skip the frustration and go with Konis when the Bilsteins blow again. I'd sure love to get my $1xx back that it cost them to modify my shocks to the wrong spec though... Your assessment of the shock situation makes a lot of sense to me though. That is how I assumed it should be so thanks for that.

If you're not going too low, then perhaps the short shaft standard length shock will work fine, you just need to either lower your bottom perch, or get some shorter springs...first option being better.

My spring are plenty short enough and the perches are as low as they can go. The only option to go lower (with respect to the strut housing) is to shorten the strut below the steering arm.

Chris, what about a quick spool valve as well?

I'm definitely all for that, but I should have thought of that before because that messes up my downpipe-to-wastegate connection. I'm contemplating a small shot of spray to help spool as well. Either way, I want to rev high enough that it wont really matter.

It would not be too hard to modify in the future but it would cost a heavy shipping back to homebase of a ginormous hotside!