The Project Pad

JShadzi wrote:Nate will chime in I'm sure 8)

You guys really need to communicate across the shop better!!! :bump:

birdmanmt wrote:

JShadzi wrote:Nate will chime in I'm sure 8)

You guys really need to communicate across the shop better!!! :bump:

Thanks guys, yah I'm pretty sure those two legs of that pipe on the back of the motor represent 'pre' and 'post radiator flow, at least thats the way it seemed when I tried to trace out the flow.. just wanted to run it by another set of eyes.

Thanks!

gidrew wrote:is myke grinding without a t-shirt on???

crazy huh :tard:

Alrighty, more progress today.

I welded shut the outlet on the passenger side of the radiator because it interferes with the alternator.




I also modified the drivers side port with a aluminum weld el to clear the timing belt cover.



and I fabricated a copper coolant pipe for the new drivers side inlet.







And lastly I needed to run a different oil cooler as I dont have room for the stocker so I welded some -10 adapters to the stock pipes:



In other news, Dennis had his subframes powdercoated for his UrQ. Purrdy

Nice, can you powder coat copper?

audifreakjim wrote:Nice, can you powder coat copper?

audifreakjim wrote:Nice, can you powder coat copper?

Funny, I was just thinking about that

I dont see why not. The temperature range for melting the solder is higher, I think?

We'll find out :bump:

nice Marc.....lookin pretty spiff

Home Depot Motorsports parts! :woowoo:

What's next???

audi coupe vee eight twin turbo. ....... doesn't that just strike fear into your hearts? i mean ... damn! :-D :-D and to think i went and scoped this thing out just last year. great work there marc. in one years time you were able to get its first start. we're all so proud of you ... :( ..... git r done!!!

>>Emy

shlab wrote:audi coupe vee eight twin turbo. ....... doesn't that just strike fear into your hearts? i mean ... damn! :-D :-D and to think i went and scoped this thing out just last year. great work there marc. in one years time you were able to get its first start. we're all so proud of you ... :( ..... git r done!!!

Thanks Emy! I have to say, I really did like the sound of this thing when I fired it up for the first time. Cant wait to be able to get it on the road and start tuning

More progress at the shop today, got the downpipes in and tack welded.

passenger side:




drivers side:



view from below:



And yes, I am a v-band whore

Marc, how much space do you have between the body and the edge of the downpipe?

gidrew wrote:Marc, how much space do you have between the body and the edge of the downpipe?

passenger side, plenty.

Drivers side, TIGHT.

I'm going to want to clearance the body a little bit on the drivers side as its maybe a mm or two away from touching over there. The v-bands clear ok, but the pipe on the bottom side is really, really close.

yeah, i wonder if its going to hit when the motor torques a little bit.

Wow - nice job Mark, glad I didnt hold you up too much. Did you do all hat and manage to get out of there by 2:30?

Awesome project, the car looked fabulous in person and I cant wait to see it out there, didnt look too far off to me (compared to my upside down 5K shell anyway )

timmmy wrote:Wow - nice job Mark, glad I didnt hold you up too much. Did you do all hat and manage to get out of there by 2:30?

Yep, but to be fair those pipes are just tack welded. I've got a good full day or two of finish welding to do at this point (radiator brackets, exhaust bits, etc)

Awesome project, the car looked fabulous in person and I cant wait to see it out there, didnt look too far off to me (compared to my upside down 5K shell anyway )

Thanks, now get out there and finish the 5k :cheers:

Hey nice project, but why 3.6 insted of 4.2 ?

Cheaper if it blows up.

Sam

SeStone wrote:Cheaper if it blows up.

Sam

Yep, thats a big part of it. Also, the 4.2 has much tighter bore spacing which makes me wonder if it can take as much boost...

More progress today, got quite a bit done for only being at the shop for a few hours.

To answer your question Jim, yes, you can powdercoat copper



However, you have to be careful. It seems the solder melts at around 415 degrees.. I typically powdercoat at around 420 degrees but I noticed a drip of solder so I had to turn the temps down a bit. It came out pretty good though, and still seals air

I also stopped by Napa and brought in the stock serp. belt cut to the length I needed for my application. I'm only going to be running the alternator off of it (electric power steering and no AC), so here's the new routing. Fits like a glove!



I also modified the water pipe with -6 weld bungs for the water fittings on the turbos. Yep, it holds air, on the first try even!



And powdercoated



I welded the throttle bracket onto this pipe as well. Currently I'm just using the whole full lenth stock throttle cable and loop it back to take up the slack.. It works pretty well, I may just leave it.





I also tack welded the beginnings of the intake pipe. I find duct tape is a great way to hold pipe in place just long enough to get the first tack weld set





And eventually I'll secure the pipe in place with this piece of aluminum angle, bolted to the original supports for the stock airbox:




More updates next weekend with any luck!

you are my freaking hero marc!! i can sit here and babble, but this car is amazing

is it a bad thing that im going to college so i can afford to do stuff like this?? :? 8)

Great progress Marc! 8)

looking great as usual marc

:stupid:

thanks guys! My GF will be out of town for the next two weeks so chances are good I might actually get this thing on the road soon

What's left:

- mount new oil cooler down low on drivers side, and run approrpriate oil lines

- mount stock UrS6 intercooler on passenger side

- finish intake plumbing

- weld new inlet for radiator on passenger side, and find appropriate hose to connect to the block

- finish exhaust fabrication. Need to re-do pipe that connects between downpipes and 'y' transition to 3" pipe. Car chemistry insert to be welded in the 3" section, then onto a boost actuated side-dump valve. The other side of the valve (non-boost) will be routed through the stock 2.25" mid and rear sections.

- hookup electric power steering pump

- route coolant lines to turbos

- relocate expansion tank to passenger side and route appropriate hose

- mount and run lines for oil/water separator and catch can

- reconnnect brake and clutch lines to the master cylinder, bypassing ABS

- LOTS of finish welding (everything is mostly tack welded at this point)

and then the obvious interior re-assembly, etc.

Ok, so maybe not within the next 2 weeks, we'll see