The Project Pad

if you have cops over there that are cool with that, tell them to come over here....cause i get my balls busted at least twice a week when i have a functioning car that isnt a 95 taurus. lol

so i got the rear locker sorted out im pretty sure now.

using a PTO cable i got from NAPA, and i think itll work out pretty good.

the knob



the cable.




gonna have the wire welded to the top of a bolt, and then thatll be that, hopefully.

glad to see you get that lil thing sorted for us :-D

i think i may just run it full lock alla time.

whats PN for that there lil widget?

and depending on flexibility of the cable itself, you might think about seeing if it can bend and make a loop and twist it around itself, then solder it to itself. then put said bolt thru the eye-loop.

part number is 731-1100

and the cable isnt tooooo flexible unfortunately, but at the same time i wanted it to be heavy dutyish so it could push and pull the locker in the with ease. im hoping that weld will hold once i get it back tomorrow and in the car, ill give it a few good yanks and see what happens, lol.

but will the cable break off if you try and wrap it once in a loop?


what i did for my shaved hatch back in the day..... i took a regular door lock actuator, and made a lever off the latch inside the hatch. to pull it, i took 12ga wire, and attached it to door lock actuator and then put a ring terminal crimped and soldered onto the other end. the rod was a 6x9 long ass bolt from speaker. so i just bolted the ring terminal to the lever bolt, and could adjust the pull as well by moving the ring terminal up or down the bolt. it worked well.

another thing you could do is get a slotted bolt, like on a bike brake setup? put thru the actuator, then run cable thru slot. when you tighten the nut on the slotted bolt, it tightens to the cable and the actuator.

just thinking on the fly here.... something non permanent.

once i got my b4 headlights and clear corners, i noticed that my bumper was actually mounted a bit lower then it needed to be in order to look good...so i had to go to town on that spray foam and fix that up a bit....and since the bumper had to be moved up, the intercooler mounts that i had welded up became completely useless, so those had to go as well...second attempt worked out pretty well...




and then since the intercooler core became higher up on the bar running across the front of the car, well wouldnt ya know the way i was going to mount the radiator went to schit too. :bullshits:
so instead of drilling holes in the bar and putting bolts through it, i welded bolts to the bar to act at studs and mounted the radiator thata way...


there will also be brackets to mount the top of the rad to the headlight supports, but for all intents and purposes to make sure things fit, this is how it sits for now.


its quite tight back there once the fans go on, but it seems like its gonna work out, i can actually move the rad forward about half an inch maybe once i redo the bracketry tomorrow to gain a little more room back there.


and the view from the front will be...


still gotta throw an 19 row oil cooler up in there and that'll be that.

well, the diff lock cable worked out great, i just forgot to snap some pics of it, it should work out pretty solid though. need to have the tabs re-tacked onto the radiator before i mount that, but it should work out prefect as well. the oil cooler i got semi-mounted this evening, but i forgot that i needed to put nuts on there to hold the core TO the mount, and there is no room for that now. :bashtard:


anyway, on to the rad hoses. so working at NAPA has many perks, and this is one. i have a picture book of all the radiator hoses that Gates makes that are available to us, listed by ID....so i went through that and picked out what i thought COULD work for what im doing....and i couldntve been more spot on, lol. the idea is to use the hydraulic hose crimping machine and press ends onto the rubber radiator hoses...its worked out fine before so im sure ill be good.





gotta get some -an ends on the rad and ill be set. also, i have many hose end options, straight, 45 or 90 degree, so thats that.

Running it the same as Jason's?

idk what hes running, but im running a tstat. i machined out the an fitting a bit before i got it welded on there so a stat fits in there perfectly. the rad will sit high enough to not need a reservoir to fill it, and there will be a returning overflow right off the top of it.

i still need to get the fitting welded onto the stock hardline for the stat bypass, and then that will run from off a t fitting from the large hose off the side of the head that returns to the top of the radiator.

the turbo return line for coolant will run into there as well.

vid of the dif locker in action.

http://vimeo.com/5336677

i still need to mount the cable in a few more places so that it doenst move like it is in the video, but all in all its working out pretty well.

Nice, my diff lock used to be me sucking on the tube and plugging it with a little bolt. This is when I had two locking diffs to deal with.

Which NAPA do you work at? lol You're probably only a few minutes away, and I didn't know it.

i work at the one right on 299 over in highland, been there for a few years. im out in the one in NP, same owners, from time to time. but im in highland six days a week.

Oh cool I was gonna hit up NAPA to get some alpine white mixed tomorrow. Perhaps I'll head over to highland instead lol.

well we dont mix paint over in highland, only out in new paltz, lol. but come on in when youre in the highland area....and bring that v84k with you. 8)

i got my oil cooler mounted and the rest of my stuff is off with my good friend Chris so he can weld it all up. should be tits once it comes back. in the meantime, i worked on the bracketry that i need to move my alternator down a bit, cause it will NOT fit in the stock location with the intake manifold like that, which i knew going into making the manifold.

welded tabs on the bumper support, then welded nuts onto the tabs....which is a mother-f-er trying to get the nuts to still be able to have bolts threaded into them. one side came out perfect, the other i may re-do cause its a bit rough threading stuff in there.




alternator bracket, and the serp belt tensioner bracket.





just gotta make that one cardboard piece outta metal, weld it up, and ill be set (hopefully) with that.

went back to work on the interior of the car, if you can even call it that anymore, lol.

got the gauges wired up....molex connectors ftmfw (thank you aaron)

yes i will make a box for the battery in the end.


and made a little mount for the ecu this afternoon as well. going to put some dynamat on it so its a nice snug fit, and ill be ready to rock.





frame rail tuck.

sweet progress. keep up the great work.

WOW Johhny, those gauges look REALLY GOOD.

mine are not that bright.... but i wont turn them on so i dont care. but those do look sharp. what line of Autometer?

and you put ze ECU on de driver side? must have a good reason....

autometer ultra-lite 2 series. i had a few of them in my GTI and the few nights that it actually ran and it was dark out, i absolutely love love loved them. they are all LED backlit. i even got the LED upgrade for the SW boost gauge, but as you can see...its no where near the light that the autometers give off.

the reasoning for the ecu being there is cause i wanted to run the wires right through the frame rail and into the engine bay. i wanted to put it right on the center tunnel, but i thought it woulda been a bit too tight, and the wires wouldve been right next to my gas foot....which gets spastic at times. and i didnt want to run them through the passenger side frame rail cause the downpipe is right right there, and i didnt think itd be a good idea that near the heat.

trying to get most of my aluminum back from welding this week. then i need to have the fuel rail machined. throw it all together, run hoses and lines and stuff. cut the harness to about where i want it. pull it all out, paint the bay, put the motor together and finish it all up. im shooting to have it done before it gets too chilly over here, but we'll see.

whats too chilly? over here too chilly is about 2.5 to 3 weeks, late Dec to mid Jan???

and even then, as you well know, i work in that stuff. but i think its nowhere near as "chilly" as you guys get. we get down to maybe 25 or so.... ahhaha

lookin awesome man i like the radiator hose w/ hydraulic hose ends idea...thats slick

if it stayed around 25 for three SOLID weeks in the wintertime in semi-upstate NY, i would be stoked. it gets a wee bit nipply around here for a few months straight unfortunately.

and thanks man. i wanted to run the hydraulic hose ends since i wanted to do all AN hose stuffs. but the normal ends, like those that are on large machines and such...are quite big, those you see above actually go on the SS braided hose that we have at work. only thing is the hose is alotta lotta money, so i had the idea to just take a look through the hose picture book and i honestly just really farking lucked out when i brought the stuff home, it ended up being damn near perfect.

Bad ass, now how about a better pic :-D

coming along nice

zerb wrote:if it stayed around 25 for three SOLID weeks in the wintertime in semi-upstate NY, i would be stoked. it gets a wee bit nipply around here for a few months straight unfortunately.

You've got nothing to complain about. We're consistently under rated for bad weather yet top the charts.
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