The Project Pad

It will move both directions based on accel/decel. Those engine mounts keep it pretty sturdy but it still moves significantly. I just don't understand why you went out of your way to keep the charge pipe on the motor side of the frame rail? Rotate the compressor housing a bit and that pipe would have been much simpler to fab.

The vaccum line attaches to the top of the BOV...I see a vacuum line hanging...

EDIGREG wrote:It will move both directions based on accel/decel. Those engine mounts keep it pretty sturdy but it still moves significantly. I just don't understand why you went out of your way to keep the charge pipe on the motor side of the frame rail? Rotate the compressor housing a bit and that pipe would have been much simpler to fab.

I hear you... But a few things...
1) I looked at many dyno videos, and everyone of them lifts on the passanger side under acceleration and back down on the mount on decel... None of them had these firmer mounts that I know of
2) I went out of my way because I had no time constraint and lets face it, I've dealt with bigger complications than dealing with cuts and pipe angles... it was simpler for me this way... Less piping and more room for the future oil cooler
3) I did try many different routes: 4) As it sits now, I have almost 2" of pipe to frame clearance(I'll get a better pic)... I highly doubt it'll hit and if soo that's why there is silicone flex, right?

5) I like the least travelled route as long as it doesn't hurt performance...

EDIGREG wrote: The vaccum line attaches to the top of the BOV...I see a vacuum line hanging...

Its not connected cuz this unit has no spring and was used to mock up my unit with hasn't arrived... Waterfest plans are looking dim... :sad:

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Gotcha... the length is about the same around the other side of the frame rail and it has less bends. I also prefer it to keep the piping away from the heat.

If you have 2" you will be OK. This pic make it look like it was touching the frame rail




Is it driving yet?

EDIGREG wrote:Gotcha... the length is about the same around the other side of the frame rail and it has less bends. I also prefer it to keep the piping away from the heat.

If you have 2" you will be OK. This pic make it look like it was touching the frame rail




Is it driving yet?

Oh I see why you'd think that based off that... I'll get a better one ... And yes, it runs and drives in and out of the garage bay every morning ... Just not on the street yet until I get my fully functioning BOV... is it me or does Tial always take a while to get stuff out? Maybe I'm getting antsy... tomorrow I'll be putting my bumper on though....
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Got to check out another PTE powered UrS6 on a tubular maní just to see the work done...
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Here's a better clearance pic... Looks like the pipe might have slipped down since I had no clamp when I took the original pic...

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Height difference between OEM and 450LPH


Cut Basket


About a similar size cut of the bottom the new pump


Slide IN


It gets more snug as you go in thanks to the OE basket tabs


Flush


Top View


Splice into the wires


Re Install as a complete unit

Nice write up OB

Pedmaster wrote:Nice write up OB

Thanks

wtf is going on here OBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBB seriously, you driving this thing yet?

chaloux wrote:wtf is going on here OBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBB seriously, you driving this thing yet?

You will be contacted privately through secret channels....

Huh? Did something happen?

EDIGREG wrote:Huh? Did something happen?

Nothing catastrophic...

Sorry to hear you blew the new motor OB, but I can't believe it fell off the flatbed getting towed too! And then it caught fire? Man that just sucks. Well, count me in for some of your parts when you start the sale. I'll def take the FMIC and maybe the meth injection parts.

Quattro-JC wrote:Sorry to hear you blew the new motor OB, but I can't believe it fell off the flatbed getting towed too! And then it caught fire? Man that just sucks. Well, count me in for some of your parts when you start the sale. I'll def take the FMIC and maybe the meth injection parts.

FMIC and Meth system have disintegrated, I can't help you...

Ditto on the loss I can't believe the guy didn't strap down the car. So so sorry dude - those pictures looked so bad.

I am interested in the engine mounts once/if you start the part out

themagellan wrote:Ditto on the loss I can't believe the guy didn't strap down the car. So so sorry dude - those pictures looked so bad.

I am interested in the engine mounts once/if you start the part out

Poly-Urethane mounts melted upon fire damage... sad to report...

Wait what the fuck

I hope this is a joke...

vt10vt wrote:I hope this is a joke...

At the end of the day, they're just pieces of metal... Aren't they?

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I see you online... At least say if this is a joke or not. If not you might have worse car luck than me.

Hope it's not a joke.

Solid build, would be a shame to see this happen.

But if it did, just chin up and get back into it.

jaychen wrote:Hope it's not a joke.

Solid build, would be a shame to see this happen.

But if it did, just chin up and get back into it.

Wouldn't be the first time I get back into a UrS after complete tragedy...



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chaloux wrote:I see you online... At least say if this is a joke or not. If not you might have worse car luck than me.

Lol... Had to keep you guessing for a few days...

Car is fine.. just experiencing a little clutch slip... Your dad went through something similar I believe...

3 Theories:
A)Clutch disc installed backwards
B)New Flywheel needs to bed with the disc
C)Slight rear main leak

A & C requires more wrenching, soo I'm praying for B to work out...




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