The Project Pad

Hey Kuma, I really like the look of shaved lower moldings on the CQ. However, I am once again concerned with your use of bondo. It isn't meant to be applied more than 1/16" and 1/8" at the very very most. When applied thick, it is known to crack and lose adhesion over time.

:stupid:

Just be carefully how thick you leave it. You probably should have used a resin based filler over bondo.

DE80q wrote::stupid:

Just be carefully how thick you leave it. You probably should have used a resin based filler over bondo.

Right. If you can't use a welder and sheet metal to fill in the voids, then you should at least start with a short strand fiberglass reinforced filler. But even then, that's not something I myself would do.

My buddy said as long as its not heavily applied all at once it will be fine. I trust my friends judgement so i guess i will see if it fails or not later on down the line. If anything i will try to make a mold of it shortly after with plaster and save it to create a fiber glass version later on. The bondo is not globbed on there. The bondo was layered about 4 times to give it time to dry and set. in the Texas sun it dried relatively quickly. nice and solid too.

We laid it on about a quarter inch thick each time.

BTW, thanks for your input guys. Its much appreciated.

I think i need a new turn signal relay. I have this ticking sound like when you turn on your turn signals. and its a consistent, TICK TICK TICK TICK tickticktickticktickticktickticktickticktickticktickticktickticktick


tick

ticktick
tick
ticktick




tick



ticktickticktikticktikticktickticktickticktikticktikticktik

but my turn signals are not on.









so anyone have a turn signal relay they are willing to sell to me?



LMK.






its driving me NUTS

Cycle your hazzard switch on and off, make sure your seat heaters are turned off. Then let's see if its the turn Sig after all.

oh yeah... the seat heater is still on.. hrmmm.

what causes that reaction in the car?

It only has to get so hot, after that, it cycles on and of to maintain temp. We don't need burns on our keysters.

roger that!

Just got back from car show last night. I won best Audi!

pics or it didn't happen!

what were the other audis?

There were two bagged A3s a bagged S5 and some B5/B6 S4s bagged and static dropped. Lol its funny cuz his is primer gray

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:pics:
We need proof! Pics or it didn't happen.

SapperMike wrote:There were two bagged A3s a bagged S5 and some B5/B6 S4s bagged and static dropped. Lol its funny cuz his is primer gray

This is why I did not go to this show. Airbags on German cars is an abomination. The bullshit stance scene is so ghey.

frostyflax17 wrote:pics or it didn't happen!

what were the other audis?

Before the show!

my car is not perfect. We ran out of time to finish the doors and stuff, but we will work on it over a period of time.

Nice man! Do you have holes in the rear bumper now to affix that plate?

Yeah, but eventually gonna get euro bumpers. For now though I need to relocated some lights to light up the plate at night.

so i replaced my spark plugs. Car runs much smoother.
It was spitting and bogging down and so i changed them out. although, the rear plug had oil on the bottom part and the others did not...

what does this mean? I asked a friend and they said possibly bad valve cover or rings going bad?

anyways, the CQ is more smooth and hasnt begun bogging down again, but i guess i need to order a valve cover gasket soon.


replacing on a 20vt is easy, is it much more difficult on a 20v?

just asking, cause ive never done it on a 20v and the intake is on top of the valve cover.

get some long extension allen sockets and use pb blaster on the allen bolts holding the intake mani down, disconnecte the intake portion, and then kinda fold the whole thing over to the drives side engine bay with the fuel lines still attached. then you can get the valve cover off

oil on the spark plug 90% of the time means a bad valve cover gasket over the plugs

make sure to order a new intake manifold gasket as well

Werd, thanks Cory

Is there a special valve cover that's better than OEM? What about IM gasket?

Do not overtighten the valve cover bolts. shit strips easily.

i just use the victor reinz, and then w/e intake mani, can't really go wrong with them. i buy most of my stuff off partsgeek. usually the cheapest.

they got me my brake rotors the next day (i ordered a fri night and got them sat am?!)

and yeah, definitely use a tq wrench!!! and clean the threads up nicely and use antiseize. you'll thank yourself later. it is a pita getting stripped allen bolts out. i recently discovered the power of map gas though.

frostyflax17 wrote:get some long extension allen sockets and use pb blaster on the allen bolts holding the intake mani down, disconnecte the intake portion, and then kinda fold the whole thing over to the drives side engine bay with the fuel lines still attached. then you can get the valve cover off

oil on the spark plug 90% of the time means a bad valve cover gasket over the plugs

make sure to order a new intake manifold gasket as well

I'd agree with you if the oil was on the upper part of the spark plug (porcelain).
In this case the oil is on the part of the spark plug in the combustion chamber

... oil is getting into the combustion chamber either through the valve stem seals or past the piston rings.

A leakdown and compression test will give you leads to the cause.

BTW, is the engine consuming more than 1qt/1000k miles?
if so, then I suggest a compression and leakdown test to help better diagnose the issue.
If not, change the plugs and have fun with it!