The Project Pad

My friend has a g35 with the turbonetics single kit. No problems as of yet and hes been running it for quite a while now. Must be hit or miss with them.

:thanks: for the map!

90_Koop wrote::thanks: for the map!

:pics:

ShavedQuattro wrote:

derrish_vulf wrote:
then a buddy of mine bought a turbonetics single kit for his infiniti g35, same exact thing happend, so he just junked it and put a a gt3582 on it and its been flawless ever since...

How is the Infinity with a 35r??? Hmmmm... maybe my wife would like a 35r on hers.....

the car RIPS...seriously, with falken rt615s and a full interior he was ripping off 11-11.4 second passes consistently
and because of all the sound deadining in the car, it is dead quiet on the inside, it honestly makes me jealous riding in his car..

Hmmm, I was just talking to a friend of mine about the t04z...he was like yeah, thats nice, but kinda old technology...you might like the 4088 tho...so I've been pondering for a few minutes. It says full boost by 4700 on the 034 page for the gt4088r...and I don't particularly like that...but its not terrible.

The 35r gets full boost by 4, which is great, but I don't want a 500-550whp limit. (yes I am crazy).

The 4088 has a 77mm turbine side...the t04z has a 74.2mm exh side. Seems that they might spool the same (holding all other factors such as exhaust a/r constant) since the wheel of the t04z (t67) is older and heavier.

Just some food for thought.

dooooo eeeetttttt

instigator


I forgot to mention...this is kinda pathetic...haha but I did my second "mod" the other day. I put an autometer 35psi gauge in the car. I wanted 40...just in case...but I couldn't find one locally, and I really needed something to do on the weekend besides fix my little boat. I think 35psi will be ok though. I haven't gotten done really integrating it yet, but the color is almost the same as the stock gauges, and I have it sitting to the right of all of the stock gauges so it blends in SOMEWHAT :wink:

Other than that, its almost time to go up to school. School means I can join the SAE which stands for Society of Automotive Engineers. I hear they need an engine guy, so I'll be trying to help out as much as possible with that. They will teach me how to do a full rebuild, probably some head work, and most importantly, I'll learn to weld.

Hopefully this project can really start getting off of the ground then. Ill be able to fab my own exh. manifold, downpipe, modify my intake manifold, make some ic piping, etc...which is almost everything regarding hardware. Then it just comes down to a standalone, some injectors, and a coil-on-plug setup. In the meantime, I'll probably tear it down and possibly bore a little, get some pistons (although I'd love to be able to keep the stock ones and stock bore), do some SCAT rods, and throw some valve springs in the head. Maybe go a little further in that respect while I'm in there.

I have been thinking I'd like to tackle some other mods before I really get into making the serious power. Mainly, I'd like to do some Porsche brakes up front, and some small suspension work (aka coils, strut bar, some bushings, etc.) The exterior of this car is staying absolutely stock unless I run into some money for some LM's.

Then...comes the tranny upgrades. That will be last lol.

One more thing I'd like to add:

I've been driving my 400bhp jetta for the past few days. Then I sat down in the Audi today to take it to the gym, and...I just said "WOW...I love this car" It was like a huge relief. Its just so refined and comfortable its ridiculous. I am in love :-D

It is crazy fun to have a high power 3b, but the higher the power levels you go the more raw and less refined that 200 is going to get.

Good luck with your build.

Ha, yeah...you speak the truth. Thats what happened with my jetta. I figure it I can have a v-band setup to keep the exhaust in-check when I wanna drive it on the street...maybe even keep the noise stock-level (and run like wastegate pressure) and that would help keep some of the refinement. I definitely want to have coils (or suspension setup) that isn't too harsh, and I'd like the car to run smoothly. I think that will be fine as long as its tuned properly. I plan on just using a 7a exhaust cam...nothing radical.

Also, not sure I'll keep it in the 200. I'm 95% sure it will stay there, but who knows what the future holds.

I'm thinking that after this project is over, I'm either going to be building a badass bridgeport 280 Mercury outboard...or a 383 stroker or 331 or 408 stroker. I am a madman when it comes to things with engines :-D

Hopefully, the audi can still be a nice daily by then!

loxxrider wrote:The 35r gets full boost by 4, which is great, but I don't want a 500-550whp limit. (yes I am crazy).

My 3076R makes full boost at 4k. I don't think a 35R comes on quite that soon. I would expect a 35R to be boosting at 4500 and a 40R around 5000. That's just me speculating though.

Hmm, yeah, I suppose it depends on the setup (i.e. manifold/headwork, etc.)

I was just coming up with those numbers because thats what it says on the 034 page.

My intake manifold is stock 3B, but you'd be hard pressed to find a better ported head or header than what's on my car.

You know, now that I think of it, your numbers seem off to me somehow. I'm not sure why, but take this as an example.

The 3076 is now the must have turbo for the 1.8t guys.

On the 1.8l engine, (with terrible head design to boot) people are seeing full boost at or before 4k rpm's.

here is the link i am talking about for the 034 reference btw

http://www.034motorsport.com/product_in ... 9e6abk2u87

this has me a bit :? :?

Dunno. That's how it works on my car. It's making boost earlier in the rpm range, but it's not making 28 psi until around 4k rpm.

oh, I guess I was thinking more like 20psi :bashtard:

Well, either way, I think this time around the car will not be built around the turbo I am choosing to go with. I will build the car to take whatever I want to throw at it, and THEN I will decide for sure on what turbo I want to tie it all together with.

I just like talking about it :-D

So first update in a while. I just ordered 5 034 high output coils along with the bracket to mount them and plug wires...all for about 4.5 Benjamins : /

I know it will be a nice setup though.

They are being shipped off to Kevin Black so he can make me a nice wiring harness to plug into my future Lugtronics SEM.

As long as everything goes as planned, this should be up and running on SEM in a few weeks!!!!!

I'm pretty excited. Stock turbo on extra boost and some more timing should hold me over until lots of parts are sourced and fabbed for the real bad boy :woowoo: (not to mention bottom end build and headwork)

It will be fun raping mustangs, etc. with my old audi on a stock turbo :-D and all while tuning everything myself.

IMO, this is the very first big step in the path of this project's completion.

Now might be a good time to upgrade your intercooler. More boost means more heat with your stock turbo. I bought a big Chinese one off EBay and it's works great. $250 including all the piping/joints/clamps.

lol Chinese huh? Thats pretty interesting.

It seems like this IC wouldn't have much problem with heat-soak given its size?

Its like 2.5x the size of my old jettas (when it was stock) intercooler. It did have some heatsoak problems, but it wasn't anything too major.

I dont want to do an ic until I can get one that will work down the road...because I'll be wasting money when I have to upgrade again for serious time. Thats awesome for all the piping, etc. tho...you wouldn't happen to have a link?

im excited for ya to try out the lugtronic SEM, thats something im looking to use in my car in the future...

For the 4KQ VR swap?

Im definitely excited too. There are lots of people that want to use it, but since not many people have done it, noone is willing to be a test subject

I will be posting regularly about my experiences with it.

Kevin claims that 99% of the time you can just plug it in and it will start right up. Even on huge injectors. The base tune is also fine for regular driving, but then comes the fun of the real tuning.

I think learning to tune it will be a very fun/useful skill to acquire for the future.

Well tonight I ran into my first real problem with the audi.

I haven't had a chance to look at anything yet, that will come tomorrow morning, but I still wont have much time to check it out because I am packing everything up to drive up to school. I figured I'd ask here in case I can get a quick response.

So...tonight I was driving to our local VW/Audi meet, and like 1/4 of the way there, the ac compressor stopped working (stopped blowing cold).

Everything else was fine though.

Then after the meet, two lights came on. One was battery light, and one was ABS OFF light. I am assuming all of the above issues are from a dying battery.

The question is WHY is the battery dying.

Here are the additional clues to the problem. When car is running, lights dim and certain things fail to operate (like the cd changer lcd screen), when windows are rolled up, etc...voltage was sitting around 10 volts, and with windows in action, it probably dropped to about 8.25 volts. IMO, it cant be just the battery thats the problem if its dropping while the car is running.

So my question is, are the other issues all related to the battery dropping so low...(I am assuming this is correct), and what is the deal with the alternator. (I'll probably figure this all out tomorrow, but I'd like to ask anyhow). I figure its either got a loose/bad wire, belt came off alternator..?, or alternator is bad.

What do you think?

-Chris

Ok, so I couldn't stand it, and went outside and looked with a flashlight. I'm 99% positive there are like 3 pulleys that should have a belt on them that dont.

The big crank pulley of course is in the middle, and then I assume the alternator is on the left (looking in from the front of the car) and the (compressor?????) I'm assuming is on the right of that crank pulley.

I did hear a funky sounding little clunk noise every once in a while earlier in the night which I am assuming was my belt slapping against something before completely coming off.

SO, now my question is, how hard is it to put that belt on? It would be easy, but it seems like you have to take the whole front end of the car off to get at it : /

Also, where can I find that belt?

Thanks again guys,

-Chris

So it threw all the belts off or just the alt.? The alt. belt is pretty easy to put on. You'll need to loosen the tensioner bolt 13mm(careful no to strip the 22mm gear/nut) along with two 15mm nuts on the support rod that goes from the alt. tensioner to the a/c tensioner. You'll likely need to loosen the 13mm bolt that mounts the toothed tensioner bracket to the oil pump housing. After that stuff is loose you can mover the alt. over(may need to loosen the two 17mm bolts that hold the alt. to it's mounting bracket gotta remove the MM hose) with a pry bar. Then put the new belt on and adjust the tension making sure the belt is good and tight.
If you need a pic I can get you one.

I GOT IT!

It took me all day finding the parts, and getting everything. If everything would have gone right, it probably would have taken me like 15 or 20 minutes...but it took like 5 hours lol.

The only thing that gave me big problems was this one bolt over on the AC compressor...its the 15mm (next to the one with the gear)

First it rounded off...then I couldn't get it with a vice grip. Then I cut it, and it still wouldn't come off...then we torched it...still no luck. Finally, it took a pneumatic chisel to come off. :bashtard:

Anyone know of a good car cover specifically for the 200?

The latest update is that I just drained like a third of my bank account on the ECU and coil setup. ECU is on order and will be delivered to Kevin soon, at which time he will configure it to his liking, and make the wiring harness for the coils to the ECU, and Ill be good to go. I suspect it should be here in the next two weeks.