The Project Pad

Both cars look really nice!

Thanks!!!

I will hopefully get the e30 up soon and the s2k just for fun.

I actually bought parts for both cars yesterday......addict

SAP delete for the s2k

and

Bilstein HD shocks for the rear of the e30
Conforti chip
New plug wires (one of the few things I haven't changed as of yet)

Another question....there is plenty of talk throughout the forums about if the turbo back stromung exhaust system made for the urs4/s6 fits the 91 audi 200 turbo sedan. Some say its fits the sedan and doesn't fit the avants, ect.

Does anyone have a concrete answer?

http://www.stromungexhaust.com/92-955-s ... attro.html

Please advise.

I have it on my 200 20v. Tufty installed it. AFAIK it is a direct fit.

I'm on work travel but could get photos of it when home this weekend.

That's pretty nice looking. I wish I could buy only the center section with the cat :(

Yes. Please post pics. That would really be great.

I am currently in contact with Marc at EFI about a tune and his downpipe.

Stromung uses their (EFI) downpipe with their kit to make a true turbo back system.

Trust that anything you get through Marc is what you want!

2nd

That is confidence building.

So here is a bit of information about the stromung exhaust made for the urs4/6 vehicles with regards to type 44 installation/fitment that I have not read about until just now.

http://www.audifans.com/pipermail/s-car ... 80659.html

Can anyone confirm the information in the thread?

Does anyone know how much I should increase the length of the exhaust tips? I don't want a black sooty bumper.

Please advise and thanks for the help.

Another question(s).

I started the removal of the headliner last night. I was able to remove a handle, the center light and sunroof switch but can someone tell me how the visors come off?

I would imagine there are screws (just like the suit hangers) that are covered with a beauty cap?

Please advise and thanks for your help everyone.

You are correct! They just have a little plastic cover both where the arm connects and the clip where they pop in. There are two phillips screws underneath. You can pop them off with a flathead, but beware: if they're anything like mine, they're old brittle plastic and they easily disintegrate.

The metal contact where they pop in can then slip out of the plastic so you can pass it and the wire through the hole in the headliner.

Wonderful. Thank you for the response. I figured as much but why not ask people who actually know, before I go and break something.

Now, can you answer my Stromung exhaust questions lol???? Please hahaha.

PW200-20VT wrote:Yes. Please post pics. That would really be great.

I am currently in contact with Marc at EFI about a tune and his downpipe.

Stromung uses their (EFI) downpipe with their kit to make a true turbo back system.

Looking at these pics now, it appears Tufty may have altered a section just behind the cat but I do not know for sure.

Your DP doesn't even look stock. Should be dual exit to dual cats and pipes back. Or it could be that this is what I get for jumping in without reading

Correct, this also includes the reccomended aftermarket (Iroz, i think?) downpipe... motor/turbo are stock.

No need to duck. ;-)

Thank you for posting pics. I truly appreciate it. It looks to fit well.

Do you have any means to contact or contact info for the individual who installed it for ya? I want to know if he did in fact have to manipulate it.

It seems if your installer added a small section of pipe to the stromung system then the thread below seems to hold valid information.

http://www.audifans.com/pipermail/s-car ... 80659.html

I will be running Marc's downpipe (made specifically for the stromung system)

Aktapod wrote:You are correct! They just have a little plastic cover both where the arm connects and the clip where they pop in. There are two phillips screws underneath. You can pop them off with a flathead, but beware: if they're anything like mine, they're old brittle plastic and they easily disintegrate.

The metal contact where they pop in can then slip out of the plastic so you can pass it and the wire through the hole in the headliner.

The metal contact does in fact slip out of the plastic but the contact and its wires cannot be removed fully out of the plastic body without cutting them. The wires run through a hole and there is no way to remove it. From what I can see.

Special tricks for removing the B pillars? The A pillars (ones next to the front windshield) just popped right off. For the B pillars do I need to remove any of the seat belt adjustment mechanisms, ect. prior?

Thanks for your help.

Woops sorry! I remember cutting the wires on mine, and then realizing the contact slipped out, so I assumed that was the way it was supposed to be done. I forgot the wire also runs through the plastic. Maybe there's a connector somewhere near the sunroof motor opening? I dunno. I cut it and put it back together when I finished.

IIRC, the B pillars are held in place by the trim lining the door, i.e. the door seal. Slip that off on either side, and the upper pillar should come free.

Thank you!!!

Can someone tell me if I must remove the steering wheel to remove the gauge cluster?

If so how do I go about removing the steering wheel? Tips? Advice?

Please advise.

No, you don't have to. I have removed the cluster many times without doing so.

It does require taking the upper dash cover off (or partially off) though. At least the first time.

Upper dash cover?

Please elaborate?

Thanks,

You can keep the wheel installed when removing the cluster. You’ll just need to remove the trim lining the bottom of the cluster (x3 phillips) and the upper column cover (x2 phillips, from underneath). Then remove the allen bolts holding the cluster in place. Like Chris said, I’ve heard some people say you have to loosen the dash pad to get it out, but I’ve never had this issue. Your results may vary.

I've never removed my dash pad, but if it's like the V8, it's held down by a few allen screws. Two under the front speaker covers, one accessed through the center dash vent, and some on the sides after removing those side panels that face the door.

The trim lining is off as well as the upper steering column cover. All the screws that hold the cluster in are removed. I just cant slide it past the wheel....

Another question: When ever I turn my seat heaters on, left or right side, there is an audible clicking noise (relay) from under the dash. What relay should I be looking for/at?

Please advise and thanks everyone.

If you are struggling take the dash off (what I was calling the upper dash pad). Kevin described it well. It's the thing the speakers sit under and the thing that covers the top of the cluster,etc

Removing or loosening that should help things along of you can't figure out how to free it.

Hey everyone.

Long time, as life just simply gets in the way, as do other projects.

That being said I have a specific question.

I am going about replacing my brake MC. Do I need to bench bleed this unit before I install it?

If so how do you all go about doing so?