The Project Pad

Next project is the fuel lines. Both on this car and the UR Quattro I need to find a way to get rid of the bubble fittings and shorten the lines in the engine bay. They measure 8mm. Has anyone found any sort of adapter, crimp type that goes from 8mm to AN/JIC? Edit, I'm thinking about using this piece ->165056 ERL , EARL'S 5/16 to 6AN https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-165056erl I need to do some research and will report back when I find the right fitting number

I only found one company that makes them but they charge up the ass for it. I can afford 4 Earl's or Aeroquip fittings for the price of these suckers.


Finished breather piece

Those 5/16" AN adapters work well. The one caveat is you'll either need to drill the adapter a bit wider or file down the diameter of the fuel line for the brass ring to slide on.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Vibrant-Performan ... /116102/-1

viridia wrote:Those 5/16" AN adapters work well. The one caveat is you'll either need to drill the adapter a bit wider or file down the diameter of the fuel line for the brass ring to slide on.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Vibrant-Performan ... /116102/-1

Ok good that's what I ordered !! I figured the 3 thousandths difference could maybe make up with sanding or something .



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Today gonna see if I can get my factory AAN harness passed though the firewall in a clean way.
The grommet on the harness is smaller outer dia, and I do still have the factory 4K grommet but not sure which to use!
Could use the AAN harness with a small metal plate but then I'd have to secure that somehow to the firewall.

Installed fuel line fittings to adapt to AN


Pretty hard to see but I made a small plate to adapt from the size of the AC grommet to smaller hole for the grommet on the AAN the wiring harness. The plate is then sealed and secured to the firewall.


Working on getting wires secured, battery cables and what not out of the way and figure out where theres room to mount everything.


I need enough space for fuel pressure regulator, all my connections, and a catch can. Some of it might have to go behind the radiator or over by the turbo.

For the turbo I needed a way to get coolant out of the water manifold and over to the inlet because I got rid of the stupid metal line. I am running stock turbo for now, but I will be upgrading in the near future and wanted to use AN fittings for that line so that when I upgrade the turbo I will have space and not have to remake that line.



Started looking at the 034 fuel rail. The " inlet " or rear most fitting is going to be a pain. I thought a 45 Degree 6AN would work but it doesn't clear the 3B intake manifold. Not sure If anyone has any ideas what to do here?

Flip the rail 180* and run a 180* -6 AN fitting with the fuel line running back parallel to the rail.

Did you use a compression fitting of the fuel feed line too? I could be wrong, but i don't think they are rated to handle the pressure of that. I used an Earl's oring fitting on my feed line, and a compression on the return.

Little bit of work today
Realized I had to pull the intake manifold because I never set up a good vacuum source for the intake manifold. Also I am missing the damn check valve. I don't know where I put it!




Also switched throttle cables from turbo 4000 donor to the recipient car.


So, I've never had a 3B and I don't remember what goes in this hole? Anyone recall? Is it a metal line that goes to the ISV that just gets pressed in there

Found a good solution for the fuel rail. I took the -8 to -6 reducer nipple out and ran a 45 degree -6 out of the rail (female to male) and then the -8 -> -6 reducer goes in that.




Space is getting really tight behind the fuel rail. I think I am going to have to move the PS reservoir.

Nice! looks good!

For the brake booster vacuum line, I got a new check valve. Enter the next problem I have caused myself...
The diameter is slightly off from 1/2" (12mm?) so it doesnt fit directly in to the booster grommet like I had planned. Which means I need to find a barbed fitting to go into the booster, then adapt size to the check valve, then back to my 1/2" barb in the intake manifold. The parts are available but the only issue is I only left myself a very short amount of space to go from the booster to the intake manifold.

Was able to find a parker fitting that fits into the booster grommet. The fittings are brass barbed fittings Parker Push-Lok , the one I'm using is 38282-8-8. http://www.hoseandfittingsetc.com/product/fittings/hose-fittings/parker-82-series/82-series-union-fittings



Check valve ATE 34 33 1 151 532





Looking from straight above. I was going to do a tight 90 into the check valve but there is not enough space. Hopefully I can find an alternative to running a huge loop here...




The hose is Parker Push-Lok 1/2" , it's nice because it is Heat and chemical/fuel resistant

Been super swamped again at work through and past BBQ which sucks. Havent had any time to work on the car.
I have a local buddy who is going to swap his 80Q and only has an AAN long block but no accessories, manifolds, etc.


Anyways I have an AAN sitting in the 4000 but the plan was to build up this other extra engine I have at my own pace. I started pulling the parts off it so he can have them and wanted to get a look inside anyways.





Things look pretty decent to me. No surprises.
This engine will be getting DM forged rods, new bearings throughout, new gaskets, ARP studs. New valves in the head. Once I can afford any of that.

Looks like you're making some great progress! Keep it coming!

Will do , you gonna be at BBQ?


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I will be around. Mostly tonight at the dealer (I work there). My car is up in Utah getting body work done. :(

On this guy, the metal elbow was still in the ISV. Is it common for these to come out? Need to find a way to secure that and I'm not sure If I should be tapping something in there or what.

Started tearing down the engine that will eventually go in this car. The AAN that is in it runs fine but burns oil. I have it in there so I can finish fab work and get it running and take my time on building one up properly. Not going crazy on it though, its a slippery slope and I need a car finished so I can drive to battleborn next year.

The plan for this engine is:
-drop off the engine at the shop so they can hot tank it and clean it up, hone, measure crank, etc.
-Paint block
-install I Beam Rods
-get new Coated Bearings
-get New rings
-ARP head studs
-MLS head gasket
-top end rebuild
-Upgrade valves
-New hardware

Everything is looking good so far. This is basically a junkyard engine so it's good to see no surprises.







disregard the pic below, it's just my notes so I don't forget how things came apart. I noticed the rod bearing caps are not numbered. but the main caps are. the bearings all seem to be in pretty decent shape nothing that will catch a finger nail. Crank looks good.

Engine:
Got the engine dropped off at the shop and hopefully hear back soon on the condition of everything.
Ordered new valves- going to do the intake and exhaust valves in stock size.

Turbo:
Here is the stupid plan I came up with, it may or may not work.
The manifold I was going to use for the URQ now has been re-purposed for the 4000. I want to run an EFR in that car ultimately and when I get my engine back from the shop and start putting it together I will have that to protoype a setup on.

There is an eBay store that sells used EFR turbos off of Penske Indy Cars. for the price I'm sure they need work but I ended up picking one up a while ago just to see if i could make it work. I tried searching the webs and could not find any reports of anyone using one.
So here is the turbo.
EFR 7163 , AR 0.85, NonWG
P/N 1163980000



The first issue I will have to work through is the flange on the exhaust side. it is slightly off in size from the ones Hank uses (Tial ?) Im not sure how they measure the flanges. There is an inner race, the OD or whatever, the ridge on that, measures 2.5" the ouside of the flange is


Exducer Inlet flange



Fitment in the car

Same turbo I have:
EFR 7163, 0.85 A/R, v-band in/out, EWG

Hank ran into the same issue with the v-bands on my set up, using his old personal exhaust manifold running standard TiAl vbands.

Digging through my emails, here's what Mike Hood figured out:

Mike Hood @ Ringer Racing wrote:You can use the Tail flange for the input at the manifold, the discharge on the 7163 is the BW EFR style V-band like the rest of the EFR’s.
So you will need a discharge EFR v-band clamp and maybe a flange if you are going to be making your own down pipe.

Mike

And in a further email:

Mike Hood @ Ringer Racing wrote:If that manifold was made for a Tial V-band housing then the V-band you have for that will work for the EFR. Since the EFR exhaust outlet uses a different type of clamp/flange you will need those, they are $22 and $24 each.

You can see the EFR clamp/flange in this picture, the clamp is completely different then the normal V-bands used for other brand turbos.

bw-efr-7163-exhaust-clamp-flange.jpg (29.23 KiB) Viewed 40607 times

HTH

Working on locating the proper hub for my steering wheel... Had the Momo one but I need an adapter for Nardi/Personal.


Also got an ECU for this beast


Spent some time working on the exhaust last night. Should be able to finish it in a few more hours.




Going to be tough to not get it to rub over the axle. I dont even know how some people get 89mm/3.5" through there.

Working on locating the proper hub for my steering wheel... Had the Momo one but I need an adapter for Nardi/Personal.


Also got an ECU for this beast


Spent some time working on the exhaust last night. Should be able to finish it in a few more hours.




Going to be tough to not get it to rub over the axle. I dont even know how some people get 89mm/3.5" through there.

Working on the shifter a bit too.

This is coming out of my donor car. Here is a shot of what I think the shifter set up should look in for transferring the 01E 5 speed into the B2 but still retain the reverse lockout.





The Base plate is from the 4000, top piece is from UrS4

How come you fit up your exhaust with no gap? Not worried about penetration?

PRY4SNO wrote:How come you fit up your exhaust with no gap? Not worried about penetration?

Im not sure to be honest. I don't have an training on welding just have been practicing in my shop. I have always used a tight fit-up on stainless because I am not very steady when it comes time to add the rod, so I end up making the gap bigger or blowing through. I have found it alot easier to tack with tight fit up.
But I have been working on what you recommended and making some "dogs" to fix to my table so that will make it much easier to tack. Also going to get a splitter so i can set up for to purge.