The Project Pad

This is awesome! I really like how you plated the rear strut towers, I think I'm going to have to go back and do something similar on my coupe.

Is there a specific sanctioning body you're building the cage for?

vt10vt wrote:This is awesome! I really like how you plated the rear strut towers, I think I'm going to have to go back and do something similar on my coupe.

Is there a specific sanctioning body you're building the cage for?

Thank you!! SCCA GCR. ITB

https://cdn.connectsites.net/user_files ... 1577729835

Glad you and Issam could strike a deal. He's such a potent asset to the community. Always looking to help. Especially with such a cool project. Look forward to future updates.

Thanks. Struck a deal with NAPA. I’ve never had the pleasure of dealing with Issam’s potency. If he ever has any input he knows where to post.

Ha. That's too bad you didn't make a deal with him, he's a great source for many hard to find old school parts (Audi Tradition North America vendor, btw) and new alike.

Glad you got what you need for a reasonable price

Doing the best I can with what the good lord gave and the tools I have. Got the A pillar down tubes bent, drilled holes through the dash to connect forward tubes to the shock towers. Drivers sideTube will interfere with the fuse box and wiper arm. I’ll probably remove wiper motor assembly and use the rear wiper motor. Not too worried about right now.

Some panoramic shots from drivers seat and center of inside.

You can see here that the tube well hit the fuse box. Anyone have any experience with relocating that rats nest?? Thanks for looking and the input!

Came across this “Car Builders Solutions” circuit module. Sure would make relocating OE fuse box easier!! Looks like a nice unit. What do you think??

https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/cbs-12-ci ... ing-module

Strut tower tubes. Might need to add some other forward tubes???

Knee bar. Little bit of a gap, used a ratchet strap to close it up. I’m sure it will change something some where.

Got my gusset on. 1” too small, 1.750 too big, hit my head, already done that and it hits the b pillar. 1.025 just right.

Tacked in place. Thanks for look’n.

not sure what spec you are building to, but NHRA/drag racing specs call for corner bracing like those on the main hoop to be no more than 4" from the intersect.

and keep it up, building your own is so satisfying in the long run.

speeding-g60 wrote:not sure what spec you are building to, but NHRA/drag racing specs call for corner bracing like those on the main hoop to be no more than 4" from the intersect.

and keep it up, building your own is so satisfying in the long run.

Thanks for your input!! Going by the SCCA GCR ITB Class, at the top of this page. The ITB rules are kinda vague. They give basic roll cage design specs. You read other class roll cage specs it gets a little more in-depth. I’ve read/been told that the minimum length of the tube gusset be 3x the tube diameter. Which tube diameter do I go by?? All My main tubing is 1.750x.095, gusset tubing is 1.025x.095. I went with the gusset diameter which gives me a minimum length of 3.075. Please correct me if my calculations are wrong or if I’m miss interrupting it. The A pillar gusseting was starting to hinder the vision that’s why those are shorter.
Sometimes I wonder what I got myself into. No turning back now!
Thanks for look’n

So my regional SCCA tech inspector said things are looking good. I had asked him about dimple die gusseting and he said that’s a no go. Class rules say 8 attachment points. Anything more is considered additional attachment points and is therefore none compliant. Mmmeh.

mrdeye wrote:So my regional SCCA tech inspector said things are looking good. I had asked him about dimple die gusseting and he said that’s a no go. Class rules say 8 attachment points. Anything more is considered additional attachment points and is therefore none compliant. Mmmeh.

Progress is looking great as usual! That's too bad about the dimple die gusseting, 50% because it just looks so damn cool

vt10vt wrote:Progress is looking great as usual! That's too bad about the dimple die gusseting, 50% because it just looks so damn cool

Thanks, I appreciate that! It is too bad. I’ve read some things about 1/8” or more of flex in areas that could cause cracks in other areas. Those dimple die gussets help stiff’n things up.

mrdeye wrote:Thanks, I appreciate that! It is too bad. I’ve read some things about 1/8” or more of flex in areas that could cause cracks in other areas. Those dimple die gussets help stiff’n things up.

Yeah, I get the rule because you can basically turn something into a tube chassis, but still too bad.

Is this all with the 7" radius bender you linked on the first page? I'll need to buy a bender this summer, and I was thinking a smaller radius would be better but looking back at your main hoop I'm not sure it would be, at least on a coupe. How have you liked it?

vt10vt wrote: Is this all with the 7" radius bender you linked on the first page? I'll need to buy a bender this summer, and I was thinking a smaller radius would be better but looking back at your main hoop I'm not sure it would be, at least on a coupe. How have you liked it?

Not that it means anything, but mine is an older style “Affordable Bender”. I bought for $150, it gets the job done on a budget. It doesn’t like to do 90’ bends, tube starts to deform. Maybe they have changed something in the design to alleviate that situation or it’s operator error. So fare the only tube I have not bent on it was the halo hoop. There are a couple of styles of this tube bender out there, Speedway motors and Eastwood. If I was bad ass fabricator guy building a lot of cages I’ld go with JD Square type bender. All in all I’m happy with it.

This is bad ass .
I’ve only done one full roll cage and that was in a car with a removable top , and I hated life while doing that . A lot of it I did with a thumb switch. Soon I’ll be doing one in my URQ and I don’t even know if I’ll be able to get the top welds , but was thinking I want to drop tack the pedestals in place first then fit everything , remove pedestals then it down a little . Anyways having these pictures to look at will be pretty nice

Afterthought wrote:This is bad ass.

WoW, Thanks!!

Happy Holidays gear heads! It’s been cold here, had a break in weather and got some side protection mocked up. I’ll add some extra diagonal tubes from the bottom of the main hoop and A pillar down tube to the 2 vertical door tubes. Might do the passenger side the same way. I didn’t accomplish this in one day, 3rd times a charm! That goes the same for the A pillar tubes. You have to notch a little bit at a time and for door tubes use things to hang the tube to make sure it’s placed in the same location. I mark the tubes because a lot happens in between the car and the tube bender or notcher and then the tool I need is not in the car.

Side protection

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