The Project Pad

Well.... I couldn't stand on the sidelines forever watching everyone's masterpieces come together.

Billet Hank26 is on the way! I will be matching these with a set of 550cc Bosch injectors

themagellan wrote:Well.... I couldn't stand on the sidelines forever watching everyone's masterpieces come together.

Billet Hank26 is on the way! I will be matching these with a set of 550cc Bosch injectors

Awesome! Too many people have picked these up with not enough results!

chaloux wrote:

themagellan wrote:Well.... I couldn't stand on the sidelines forever watching everyone's masterpieces come together.

Billet Hank26 is on the way! I will be matching these with a set of 550cc Bosch injectors

Awesome! Too many people have picked these up with not enough results!

Well the results are in... Hopefully Mage gets a revised hotside version... Or else he'll be kicking himself for not buying my t04e/k26 with lines for less...

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Was your k26/t04e on a #6 hotside?

Hank wrote:Was your k26/t04e on a #6 hotside?

Nope... I was told that 034 used #8 on this one... Weird

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I don't think you have the results in, or have misinterpreted them. What we are seeing is 300whp/350wtq as advertised with full boost by 3500-3600 in 3rd gear on pump gas. On e85 or meth injected, we have seen 350whp/380wtq with boost holding to 27 by redline.

Do you have a dyno plot on the t04e/k26 by chance to compare?

What would you define as "full boost", Hank? Is pump gas not pushing as much HP as e85/meth because of rod safety? or because the turbo just can't push that much power?

Timing?

Full boost being 25psi. Yes, the #6 hotside is restrictive, so timing or boost must be pulled up top to keep detonation at bay. If higher octane is used in either the form of meth, e85 or 100 oct+, then you can overcome backpressure in the hotside and keep the party going. It is no different from 3076r on .63 hotsides not being able to make much more than 375whp on pump gas, but if you put e85 in them or squirt meth, you can get that turbo into the 500whp range.

That said, a meaty 300whp powerband from 4000-7800 is available with these turbos on stock rods and offer an enormous value by not needing new lines, new inlets for the turbo, new exhaust manifolds, downpipes, ect. They are k26's for heavens sake

Hank wrote:It is no different from 3076r on .63 hotsides not being able to make much more than 375whp on pump gas, but if you put e85 in them or squirt meth, you can get that turbo into the 500whp range.

If I make anything close to 375whp with this turbo I'll be ridiculously happy. Granted I don't think I'm going to hit the dyno until I go full retard aka 07k or Hank EM + QSV + 3576, but my butt dyno reading of "LOTS OF POWA" will tell me if I'm reasonably close

Hank wrote:I don't think you have the results in, or have misinterpreted them. What we are seeing is 300whp/350wtq as advertised with full boost by 3500-3600 in 3rd gear on pump gas. On e85 or meth injected, we have seen 350whp/380wtq with boost holding to 27 by redline.

Do you have a dyno plot on the t04e/k26 by chance to compare?

Yeah, not too hard to find plots of a t04e/k26 seeing as they've been in existence forever.
Here are a few of known members in UrS circles... granted 10 years ago too





Here is what I've seen of the Billet RS2 (which I know probably isn't relevant here)


What saw of a Billet K26, has yet to even be posted anywhere in terms of a graph and it's been a month now

For what my setup was, it was a bit of a freak show... and I don't know why.I have no dyno plot of my own but plenty of footage... 2.3L RS2's UrS4 on a built head? No problem! I would kill it by more than 3-4 cars on the street with a slipping clutch to boot. The elusive Stage 3 B5 S4 Stage 3 B5 S4 ? No Problem!(and I was caught snoring at the launch too) I would consistently kill STI's(chip, exhaust, ect) STI's(chip, exhaust, ect), I've been neck and neck with tuned EVO's, countless gutted out,B16's, LS-Vtech, EG&EK hatches, 1 NOS'd H22 EG,... I could go on but typing this is reminding me how much I miss driving my car... What I do know is that I must of been deep in the mid 300whp range with no fancy fuel needed. I love the whole concept of the Billet K's (which is the only product I've pushed Mage to get & hence why he's even a member here) but you have to agree that data is scarce.

Perhaps some of those dyno plots you have on pump and e85 would do some good if they were easily found on your product page... just my 2 cents...

Those are Cody Payne's plots. Inflated Denver numbers, and on a dunojet. Things to consider

Yeah, I'd love to see a recent t04E/k26 setup dyno'd on anything but a dynojet. I'd also love ot hear one of those setups with knockphones on. Instead of dropping boost to curve light pinging, many tuners will keep boost high to claim 28psi to redline and just soften the ignition tables up to keep it out of detonation. The power responsible thing to do would be to pull boost, but that doesn't sell chipsets. I don't doubt the setup made awesome power, but t3/t04e assemblies were anything but light assemblies.

I don't put dynos up on the website because a dyno is just a measuring tool for ball park. If I put up a 360whp dynojet figure on my website, I will have a dozen angry customers when their favorite mustang dyno spits out 50hp less. IT is best to caution on the side of citing airflow figures, and let dynos be dynos. That is what every turbo manufacture does, and the only reason they post dynos is usually to show spool characteristics on popular engines.

audifreakjim wrote:Those are Cody Payne's plots. Inflated Denver numbers, and on a dunojet. Things to consider

All valid points, but still a more than worthy comparison when it comes to the "power on a budget/Billet K" conversation... Without getting too "techy" lets give it a crazy deduction of like 50whp(as Hank threw that figure out there)... its still ~330whp on plain pump fuel(non of this e85 expense needed). A strong case can still be had. ~$350 turbo with lines, ~$600 Custom Motronic tune=Decent power under $1K in this case...

Hank wrote:I don't put dynos up on the website because a dyno is just a measuring tool for ball park. If I put up a 360whp dynojet figure on my website, I will have a dozen angry customers when their favorite mustang dyno spits out 50hp less. IT is best to caution on the side of citing airflow figures, and let dynos be dynos.

I totally agree and didn't wanna turn this into a dyno debate from behind a PC, which is why I linked real world behind the seat experience to gauge an idea of what I experienced with that turbo, heavy assembly and all. I also can understand the "posting a graph on a website" argument and respect that, but is there at least something posted in some hidden thread somewhere to at least give the idea of spool? Cuz the claims would have to be substantiated at some point... Unless, of course, it's still in a "beta phase" with that hotside tweak being developed... food for thought...

Hank wrote:That is what every turbo manufacture does, and the only reason they post dynos is usually to show spool characteristics on popular engines.

Awesome, so lets use the dyno sheet above for spool comparison as well.

Lots of info here wow... really excited to see what we can do with it. The fact that it is cheaper than a standard rs2 makes it an insane value right off the bat. It will be interesting to see how much extra can be squeezed with the ported hot side hope to put it in soon - now to track down some 7a cams...

Well, I mean really where do I start. Still running stock turbo, injectors, TAP chip and really haven't touched the car since July. Car started not wanting to idle and and condition where I tried to hot start the car - it would nearly die and chug up to 700/800 RPMs.

Decided I would pull the g28 sensor, well that turned into about 2 weeks off and on with a dremel in order to get the rounded 6mm caphead bolt out - I have never in my entire life had such a difficult time getting a bolt out. EZ outs didnt work - tapping in a bigger allen,triple square nothing allowed me enough grip to torque it out. Ended up cutting the head off finally with a cute little dremel and in the process cracking the bracket that holds the sensor - FUCK.

Luckily a man named Ron shipped me a replacement piece free of charge - wouldn't let me pay him. This gave me some motivation to get back and attack it. PS if you're reading this may the carma gods bless you sir - you have no idea what it meant for you to help me out like that.

Picked up a G28 sensor from Mounty on the MG forums - that was supposedly good working condition. It arrived and turned out to be an aftermarket version all black one. Put it in and made no different at all Big sigh.

After that I replaced every little vac line, cleaned every ground and have been tearing apart everything in hopes of something. It wasn't that BIG of a deal but it made me uneasy driving the car any distance without knowing if it would start again. However that is when the real fun started.

The past week I had been going nuts as I was motivated to figure out the starting issue, but I started getting misfires like I couldn't believe, like motor being thrown out of the car. I couldn't move it I couldn't figure out WTF was going on - I checked all plugs all wires did the rotor/cap everything. (I am tired of looking at the fucking multimeter).

Luckily my beautiful lady was helping me change back to dino oil and simply said that I need new wires, of course I explained I had just bought these for 180$ about 5 months ago. But for whatever reason she said I think it's the wires. I thought to myself how cute, maybe I should buy wires.

Well I think I should have used the word smart instead of cute - as I was going nuts trying to fix all these stupid little connections I may have disturbed one of the most important ignition pieces in the car. Armed with some leather gloves and a stick I started moving around the wires pulling them separating them - then all of a sudden Perfect idle. I couldn't believe it, the main ignition wire was shorting or interfering with the RPM sensor causing a misfire like you wouldn't believe - DUH.

The hot start problem still exists, but i'm starting to think it's the wiring that goes TO the sensor rather than the sensor (However I should buy a new sensor instead of using another unknown "Working" sensor shame on me for being cheap). The other thing I haven't yet done is check the Fuel pressure and tests - the pump is getting a bit whiney so I wouldn't be surprised if a check valve has shit itself or the FPR is junk.

Anyway, this isn't a sad post today was the first time that I DROVE the car and fuck I cannot say how much I missed 1st 2nd 3rd and 4th gear - I think it's a good thing I had all these little issues as I don't think I remember it pulling so smoothly ever - the Idle and the cold start can be fixed with my right foot for now.

time to start crying myself to sleep with the bentley diagrams again.

Cool to see another somewhat local guy.

I also have the tap chip and I am surprised how strong it is for just a few psi more than stock. I keep looking at other tunes, and I know I will do it some day ( likely a billet k26 and Marc tune also, down the road) but I'm quite pleased with how he car pulls. I have really surprised a few other cars, hell I surprised myself, I think it pulls as hard as my 540i, or nearly anyway.

We should organize a tristate area meet. Ny, Ct, Ma.

Let us come from Canada too!

I'm close enough, count me in!

Mage, I think you should let them all in on your latest coordinates...

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Lol set up a date and place, you might just be surprised when I show up

On a side note some dipshit lady rearended me doing 5 mph and launched me pretty good - She wouldn't even pull over to exchange papers until I told her I was calling the police.

Luckily there was not much damage other than some cracked paint bumper - on a more sad note since her car had minimal to no damage and she blatantly lied to the police that she never hit me and the police told me to basically go pound sand.

Honestly pretty happy that the car is overall fine - Can't believe some fucking people though.

Just because it's in the classifieds doesn't mean it doesn't get used everyday...

Lucky for me there isn't too much interest in a 23 year old car

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JLyhBAzXHlI[/youtube]- 10 seconds out of about 2 hours of snowfun haha

One more with the recently added wire snip full diff lock

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=712TasZLAeI[/youtube]

Awesome

I lost an alternator belt on the drive home, but even with the top bolt loose and the star bolt loose and out it will not move even with a massive BFH I looked at the bentley and it appears to say the same- Am I just totally missing something here? I really, really was swinging on it and even used a lot of leverage. The tension bars are also loose.