The Project Pad

Didn’t mess with the starter but looked at the mounts a little . Dug out the 01E trans mounts I have left . I think I will need either a 30 or 40mm spacer on one side but I’ll have to look at whatever pictures I have from doing the 01E in the past. On top of that last time I did an 01E , to make the linkage clear, i needed to space both trans mounts down 10-12mm .

This is where pulling the stock engine and trans out will be good for taking measurements off of . If I was smart I would use scrap metal and make some sort of a fixture/cradle with it for test fitting the engine / subframe /trans and making sure the mounts are all good .

These are the trans mounts . From S2 forum .




The engine mounts I was considering remaking them from aluminum but I have no idea how thick I’d have to go for it to be strong enough so I’ll have to do a little research on that .

Once I get it in the car I can finish the welding on the header .


Car is on the lift ready to have the engine pulled when I get time


Regarding the linkages here’s what I think will be the path forward . I have these parts (pictured below) to choose from plus whatever is in the car currently .


The two crucial pieces I’m missing
First the small lever arm with the ball on it (item 37 below) and also the threaded cross linkage (item 43 below)


This is why I don’t reckon the 016 lever arm will
Work. The 01E has a nut that holds it on and also a flat-ish tapered spot that holds it in place.



Shafts look About the same


The other difference is the 01E ball is bigger . I have a rebuild kit with a new ball for the 01E I can use but I think I want to go to the smaller ball and retain the use of the b3 linkage .
So two paths forward ,
modify / weld the 016 lever arm. May or may not work but I have to make sure I get it in the proper orientation before welding . Then I wouldn’t have to change the ball yet
Or find an 01E UrS car lever arm




For what it’s worth the 016 piece DOES fit over but it would require some welding mods to stay put and bolt on right . I’m considering trying it because the only one I can find is on eBay from Latvia $80 + Shipping . And it’s worth a try I guess being that they are not much different

The 01E spacer ...
I’m wondering if this can be employed in any way useful . If nothing else it’s a great template for fit up, but could this potentially be my starter spacer ? All I would need to do is hack a piece out and I have a pattern. It still would need one bolt hole added

Some progress .
Engine is out
Battery tray is out , metal primed , hands are all cut up . Waiting in touch up paint . I started by using a spot weld drilled but ended up removing the bulk of it with a die grinder / cutting wheel then taking the spot welds out with a carbide burr.












For the 7A harness I’ve got everything out but the connections under the fusebox . I can’t see them at all in the spaghetti mess under there but I need to know which color plugs I’m looking for so i can just pull the fusebox up and unplug them . These ones in red I’ve yet to pull


If anyone has any picture of the interior plugs end of the 7A harness I’d be happy to see a picture of the fusebox plug so I know what I’m looking for !
I’m having trouble seeing which plugs are the ones that coincide with the ecu.
Thinking I should be able to unplug remove it all without cutting anything

Shouldn't have to cut anything. To call it a rat's nest is an understatement. If you like, I can have a look sometime during the week as that's about as far as I've gotten, should be able to get some pics for you.

PRY4SNO wrote:Shouldn't have to cut anything. To call it a rat's nest is an understatement. If you like, I can have a look sometime during the week as that's about as far as I've gotten, should be able to get some pics for you.

Yeah.... working on the front of the engine makes me realize why b3 is great (removable core support)
but working on or under the dash of B2 makes me realize why I like b2!

You will need a spacer on the drivers side mount to fit on a b3.
For the linkage I used one from an 03 a4 v6(car I got the fyf 01e from) I had to cut and rotate the shifter end 180 degrees and add 1.5-2 inches or so to make it reach properly. It isnt pretty but it works.

I picked up all my other fyf specific linkage parts from jhm.

Oh interesting, I have never seen those parts they make . I did end up finding the little cross bar and linkage from Force 5 . So I think with that I should be able to make something work .

I need to start thinking about the ecu and wiring for when it comes time ...
I see two options ,
Stock harness adapted to VEMS ecu or maybe Marc is still making custom harnesses.
If I do the stock harness I’d have to adapt an Econoseal to it I think. Wiring is not a strong point for me

Header looks awesome - nice work all around!

Thanks! I need to finish the header soon. I’m working to get the engine in the car so I can start to finalize some things .
With battery tray gone , I took the rest of the harness out and touched up the areas where the spot welds were removed . I also took out the ABS bracket , it wasn’t really in my way but someone I know really needed it for his build .

The hydro-booster is out as well and vac booster touched up and ready to go in .

Next steps will be get the steering rack from another car and in this one , then vac booster .





Before clear






Edit 6/22 , booster and rack are in.
Will have to find a new clutch master -> slave cylinder line.

I have no idea why but the spacer on the body where the booster goes is so much smaller on B3 than a B2.
Makes for a fun job, even when I’m standing in the engine bay it still sucks :
B2

B3
















I want to work on this intake soon. It’s looking like I might need to somehow incorporate a little bit of an angle into it. With the straight runners (unless I shorten them) it’s going to hit the plenum up pretty high .


I’m thinking part of this bracket can go ... I don’t * think * I need those bolt holes anymore

Worked on the intake some today . I have a ways to go , couple hours of sanding and filing so far . I think I’m getting idea of how I can do this . I will file and get everything perfect fitment , tack the whole manifold together , then I will have to take apart and weld it in a specific order to keep things from warping . Last weld will be the velocity stack plate then runners in case anything doesn’t go well.

What I’m Trying to make is a dual plenum like what I have in my urq and what the Audi RS3/TTRS has .









Potential location?

What I need to decide is should I try and get the intake right in the center or have the manifold inlet turn 90 deg out toward the drivers side .

This plumb bob shows roughly the center of the car do if I wanted to do the inlet right in the middle it might be possible . By removing the bracket for that snub mount .

The welding didn’t go as good as planned but with a lot of testing I was able to get things figured out to where the plenum is welded what I would call OK .
Haha
It’s not nearly as nice as I wanted it to look but it will work I think .
After lots of testing for this 6061 I settled on 75% ac balance (25% cleaning) and 110 frequency .
I think that I could have gone higher on the frequency maybe to get the arc a little wider .






From here the next things to look at ,
•where to put the inlet
I’m leaning toward straight forward and make the intake as compact as possible . As few bends as I can just straight in.
The available space is super tight . This is how much space there is with the bracket trimmed . It’s certainly not the easiest route but might be one of the most effective .
O shit. I just realized the serpentine belt is on wrong in the pics . But it’s still complicated either way .








•What type of throttle body . And how compact can I make it .
I think I need drive by cable, but I need a TPS that will work with VEMS. So IM looking at what’s available on eBay .

Question is can I adapt something like this
92mm Throttle body + TPS IAC Throttle Position Sensor For LSX LS LS1 LS2 LS7 https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre ... 2214761455

Looking very good, I don’t know VEMS at all - does it “auto” learn by marking position with throttle closed and then wide open to get the resistance values?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

Looking very good, I don’t know VEMS at all - does it “auto” learn by marking position with throttle closed and then wide open to get the resistance values?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

Most stand alones have a "tps calibration" to allow you to set closed and wide open values.

And yes, progress looks great!

I used a ford 302 TB from a crown Vic type setup. It’s ok, but it is compact which is nice.

FFF wrote:Looking very good, I don’t know VEMS at all - does it “auto” learn by marking position with throttle closed and then wide open to get the resistance values?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

Yeah if you go to calibrate it will take the low and high values with pedal at rest and depressed to the floor. Only takes a few seconds to do.

Yeah that Is one cool
Thing about VEMS things like
Calibrating the TPS and TB is super easy and takes like only a few minutes . Then there’s other stuff that is probably not the greatest available like the knock sensing and auto tune feature .

So I scrapped the first plenum design and made a newer more compact one , ha.
I put stock radiator in at a tilted angle so that if I decide to run stock rad I’ll have an idea of clearance . I definitely don’t want to make something that rules out side mount rad.

The plenum is now almost done but I need to decide on runner length and do some test to figure out whether I can bend them at an angle or not . I don’t want to miter cut them since I’m
Putting all this effort into making everything smooth.
The way it sits I could run it as is , or shorten the runners and run it . Or better yet if I can put a bend without ruining the hollow tubing I can get the lower plenum more vertical .
I spent like 4 hours practicing welding aluminum first and feeling much better about it than the other day . Burned the shit out of myself multiple times too .
I spent a ton of time cutting , grinding , then sanding , then filing by hand , then cleaning everything .

Looking forward to a group buy

Afterthought wrote:Or better yet if I can put a bend without ruining the hollow tubing I can get the lower plenum more vertical

Fill the tubing with sand then heat and bend. Poor man's mandrel

ringbearer wrote:Looking forward to a group buy

You don’t wanna know how many hours I have into it especially the flanges , but the plenum is not too bad, it is made with only the following tools nothing special ....
•angle grinder /cutting wheel
•Belt sander
•Sanding belt
•Polishing belt
•straight edge
•a sharpie
•two clamps

I think there will be some challenges , one being mainly figuring how to use a heat sink of some sort (the head?) and not warp the intake flange when I weld the runners .

I based it off the Audi sport cars I’ve found pictures of over the years .




So I have a few learnings or things I would change from looking at mine and looking at theirs .
First , the plate that I made for the 5 velocity stacks , inside the plenum I would make that a raised surface . I believe the IE manifold has this , I have one now but haven’t cut it or looked inside yet .

Another thing that I think I would learn from them and possibly do in the future when I make another , is I would redesign the intake flange to include two things , first would incorporate the curve into the runners, and
Second I would consider doing the runners transitioned from oval to round- then could use 5 silicone couplers . This would make a few things neat , First I could remove the intake easily , second I could remove it without opening the fuel rail, and lastly there would not be a concern of warping the head flange .






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

PRY4SNO wrote: Fill the tubing with sand then heat and bend. Poor man's mandrel

I’ve never heard of this but I will have to try it . I wonder how far I can bend the 6061 before I am weakening it .



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

We learned about it in trade school, nice to finally see a situation where it can get put to work. Having done a cursory search you'll want to dial in the type of sand (some types won't handle heat and could explode), compaction rate and whether to apply heat or not at all.

Nice intake

I second the sand in tubing to keep the walls from collapsing. Please weld endplates to tubing to trap the compacted sand as expandable plugs push out and there goes all the sand and your wall. Also annealing the aluminum before bending is supposed to keep it from cracking (if not bent beyond the limits of the metal).

Afterthought wrote:Second I would consider doing the runners transitioned from oval to round- then could use 5 silicone couplers . This would make a few things neat , First I could remove the intake easily , second I could remove it without opening the fuel rail, and lastly there would not be a concern of warping the head flange

I think this is still an option. Figure the circumference of the port and hope its close to standard silicone couplers. The couplers should conform to your port just fine, also there are silicone hoses of various thicknesses available if one size hose just fights to much. Clamping all this down with hose clambs should be a snap.