The Project Pad

.folder, what a fun looking build!

As far as the left over shavings after the machine work, that is down-right sloppy on the shop's part. I would avoid a shop that doesn't take necessary precautions or clean up after their work on something as vital as internal components where oil passages risk capturing debris for later release in an assembled motor.

Back in business!

Only problem is the brakes don't hold pressure; pedal just goes to the floor. Even after we flushed the fluid and bled the brakes thoroughly (twice).

Any ideas why?

Nedry wrote:.folder, what a fun looking build!

As far as the left over shavings after the machine work, that is down-right sloppy on the shop's part. I would avoid a shop that doesn't take necessary precautions or clean up after their work on something as vital as internal components where oil passages risk capturing debris for later release in an assembled motor.

Thanks! Fun but slow! haha

I kinda wondered about the left-overs after the machine work when I got the head back. But they did a great job, fast and on estimate. So I had little to complain about if all I had to do was love my hunk of aluminum some with a lil' brake fluid.

On an unrelated note, I've since switched machinists to an acquaintance of my mechanical adviser's. At least for the little things. He's been solid so far, and fast too. If you're a local feel free to ask for his contact info, he even does work on the weekends!

The B6 Sport wheels suite the car well.

The 5-lug swap seems like a PITA... what a shame. What had to be machined off the UrS4 front hubs to get them into your CQ spindles?

Nedry wrote:The B6 Sport wheels suite the car well.

The 5-lug swap seems like a PITA... what a shame. What had to be machined off the UrS4 front hubs to get them into your CQ spindles?

You know, the 5-lug swap wasn't so bad. It was everything else I decided to do while I'm in there... that was a pain in the arse. But one is invariably going to upgrade the brakes later anyways so I figured WTF, might as well just get shat done and move on to the next phase. I still have a minimum of 3 phases to complete before I plan to stockpile parts for a turbo project.

The hubs needed about 5mm spun off the circumference of the axial shoulder, as I understand things. If anyone can clarify that for me, I'm all ears. In layman's terms, it's the shiny part of the hub on the left (original on right) in the photo below:



And thanks a lot about the wheels. I really like how they fill the arches and add a subtle touch of class and brawn at the same time. :cheers:

I love those wheels. I have them on my red V8.

are there any open bleeder valves? when you say the pedal just goes to the floor, does it keep the same amount of fluid? which way did you mount your calipers? are the bleeder valves pointing to the sky? how well did you bleed it?

gtn116 wrote:I love those wheels. I have them on my red V8.

:thanks:

Hybrid_Hatch wrote:are there any open bleeder valves? when you say the pedal just goes to the floor, does it keep the same amount of fluid? which way did you mount your calipers? are the bleeder valves pointing to the sky? how well did you bleed it?

Thanks for the questions, I appreciate your BTDT experience and troubleshooting insights.

No open valves, everything has been given the once-over, twice, by four people.

Fluid capacity remains constant (except while bleeding, of course).

The calipers are mounted in the normal fashion, bolted onto the caliper bracket thence onto the strut upright, with the fluid lines and e-brake cable affixed naturally.

Problem is, the bleeder valves don't point upwards (as they should) when installed on this car. So that's a B3 vs B5 issue I suppose. I don't consider this to be detrimental to the setup as there is plenty of slack to remove the caliper and point upwards during bleeding. Other way around is to put the calipers on the other side of the car and run new e-brake cables, I suppose.





We bled the brakes twice in the traditional manner (two man operation, pumping the pedal, RP/RD/FP/FD) to no avail. Next we used a vac/pressure bleeder kit to do so and found it helped a little to do the bleed valve on the brake-MC first, but still no success.

What about hooking up an air compressor to a spare reservoir cap with an affixed air hose fitting? I've read that the bleed nipples on the Brembos need 20psi to open, so I could regulate that on the compressor using an inline gauge. Would that fix my air lock'd brake woes?

Well, your main problem is the bleeder valve is on the bottom with the way you have the caliper mounted. It need to be facing up. It is facing down. This is one of the problems with running front pull ebrake rear brakes, on a car designed for side pull ebrake rear brakes. You will never get the air out with it mounted. You can take the caliper off the rotor, face the nipple up, stick a small piece of plywood between the pads, about the wide of the rotor, and then bleed them. Then reinstall the caliper. Of course, this will be a pain to do every two years, when you change out fluid. Or you can get the proper calipers.



Greg W.

^^not sure if this will fix the soft brake pedal, but b5 calipers have the bleeder valve on top (pointing to the sky as someone else said). might also try bleeding all the caliper bleeder valves and at the master brake cylinder too.

did you let air get into the mbc during your install? or did you top up brake fluid as you went around changing calipers/brake pads/rotors?

First of all, HUGE thanks to Mantis for his help getting this delivered. He not only tipped me off to self-clearing the shipment, he connected the dots for me and the seller. The way it was shipped allowed me to clear the import paperwork myself saving a pretty penny, with actual delivery charges at far less than FedEx or UPS. Which will go a long way when it comes to getting the right clutch setup.





6 speed S2 gearbox (CGR code) ratios are as follows:

Final drive 37 : 9 = 4.111

1st gear 28 : 8 = 3.500

2nd gear 34 : 18 = 1.889

3rd gear 33 : 25 = 1.320

4th gear 30 : 29 = 1.034

5th gear 30 : 35 = 0.857

6th gear 27 : 37 = 0.730

Reverse 38 : 11 = 3.455

PN: 01E300044K

Scott DeWitt of Advanced Automotion really hooked me up on this... a crate transmission delivered for a quarter the price of a factory reman'd box of the same code (plus shipping, of course) through standby outlets like genuineaudiparts.com, ECS or World Impex.

Before he went ship it out there was an abnormal amount of noise when he gave it a bench test. So he opened her up and found that after about 20 years on the shelf the third gear had corroded. None to be found in the States, so apparently Audi had to cut one anew for yours truly in the Fatherland.

For all the trouble and delay, Scott gave it a fresh coat of paint for me in the colours of my choice, and even included a 3:1 *edit centre diff free of charge!

Then, if it couldn't get any better, he tossed my dad's freshly modified centre diff on to the pallet so he didn't have to pay return shipping. :dur: :woowoo: Not to mention the cost of the mod was half what Stasis charges!!

So, suffice it to say... Advanced Automotion is likely to see my business when it comes time for a clutch. The ten percent off he offered after buying a trans really ices the cake.

Free 4:1 center? Like he just had an extra free one laying around. Nice score.

why doesn't it have the CGR case? all the legit s2 or rs2 transmissions i have seen have the "hump" in the back like this one:

Something fishy going on here. Wouldn't be the first time i've heard of somethin fishy about a trans from Advanced Automotion.

Please do tell me what you have heard Dan.

scottmandu wrote:Please do tell me what you have heard Dan.

considering the amount of traffic this sort of topic could create, i would suggest creating your own thread.

Hybrid_Hatch wrote:why doesn't it have the CGR case? all the legit s2 or rs2 transmissions i have seen have the "hump" in the back like this one:

That was a good question, you definitely have an eagle eye! After a look through my emails to confirm, it has to do with the initial case being rusted out and Scott replaced it with a good case. The hump is for the Procon-10, which doesn't bother me as I hadn't intended to keep it down the road anyways.

Hope that allays any fears toward the legitimacy of the box, and for that matter... Scott. He's been solid and a true professional at every phase of the deal.

Is this thing running yet? I want to hear this thing in action at 7K RPM

scottmandu wrote:Please do tell me what you have heard Dan.

Just some rumors about transmissions not being what they were supposed to be. No need for another thread as I'm not going to get into a big discussion about this.

My S2 trans and my UrS6 trans, do not have the proten cable hump on the trans.

Greg W.

Looking good. After seeing the new 01E, I need to clean mine up, and give it a fresh coat of paint whilst its on the bench.

I'm sorry, but I feel the need to comment on the forklift fail. Snow, ramp, truck at bottom, going down with your tines in front of you. Yep.

40v4kq wrote:Is this thing running yet? I want to hear this thing in action at 7K RPM

Soon... just have a bit of fab work, then ought to be good to start swapping parts.

Rest assured, I have a couple spots in mind for videos... can't wait to hear that noise again!

90quattrocoupe wrote:My S2 trans and my UrS6 trans, do not have the proten cable hump on the trans.

Greg W.

Cool, thanks for the confirmation. :-)

Nollywood wrote:Looking good. After seeing the new 01E, I need to clean mine up, and give it a fresh coat of paint whilst its on the bench.

Yeah, there's no better time then when the trans is out of the car!

While it's on the bench, have you considered adding a thermowell to take temp readings? If not a full-blown oil cooler...

psychorallyfreak wrote:I'm sorry, but I feel the need to comment on the forklift fail. Snow, ramp, truck at bottom, going down with your tines in front of you. Yep.

LOL The miniscule weight of the trans pallet was far below the cg of the forklift. The surface was evenly graded and free of ice. The forklift had a professional operator at the helm, and there was more room that it appears between the bottom of the ramp and the tailgate.

Link to video

Link to video
:? :frustrated: :frustrated: :frustrated: :curses: :curses: :curses:

Coming from behind the TB cover near cyl1. Not the VC, it's buttoned down toight.

Leaking cam seal?

Second video is a little blurry. Sounds like its a cam seal, but remember just because the valve cover is tight doesnt mean that it cant be the problem. Could be a deformed vc gasket. Only one way to find out...start pulling it apart starting at the top.

Yup, there's basically no cam seal left.



Guess I'll have to take the TB off and torch the bolt enough for the red Loctite or redonkulous torque that's got this cam bolt fastened to come loose. Sucks that it's starting to round a bit, enough so that the 15/16 socket fits better than the proper metric one. Any ideas?

What a bummer! Isnt this a fresh head? about getting it loose...get a cam gear holding tool (spanner) to hold the gear with and use an air impact gun on the bolt.