The Project Pad

Well Derek, I could drive it there for you... Just to help you out and all..... :-D

:bashtard:

i'm baaaaaccckkkk

i haven't done much on the dash because i'm working on getting the big fabrication bits done so i can take the car home to oregon where if need be, i can wrap up wiring bits and small stuff. so i started off by figuring out what needed to be done to fit the IC up....












then i moved on to the front suspension. i need to finish modding the strut tubes so i can get my 235's in place.... can't live without those

started by removing the spring perches...


then carefully worked at getting the steering arms off and clearance ground at the tie rod end....


and then test fit them here. i flipped the arm so the tie rod now sits on top. this works in conjunction with the arm being slid all the way down the strut tube and the car being slightly lower to end up with the tie rod being almost flat at ride height.


here's some more front fitment pics with the 235's...
rear of the front wheel arch


it does touch here, but that's only because the plastic bulges. i'm going to lay the plastic down flat somehow



front of the front wheel arch..


plenty of clearance here!


max compression, just as tight here as my old 215's on the white car




it'll sit with about a 1-1.5" gap between the tire and the fender lip for practical purposes.

plans for the springs are... 200 20v rear springs in the front with 1 ring cut off to raise the spring rate to 200lb/in and i'll be installing some ground control spring perches to make my final right height adjustments perfect. amazingly enough, the bottom of the 200 spring JUST fits the collar on the adjuster sleeve.

Hey, you need to use the other half of that big intercooler!!! Not that wimpy thing.

Those wheels look great on the car.

haha, i would, but it's too much cutting out the front of this car. i'm not looking for 500hp, just a solid 300-350hp.

did you get any pics of clearance between those big tires and the modded control arms... :?

you do know the camshaft bolt is a stretch bolt right?

Lookin' sweet as usual. Keep it up Derek!

Wizard-of-OD wrote:you do know the camshaft bolt is a stretch bolt right?

Are you sure? I didn't think so, and I don't think I've seen a 10.9 stretch bolt.

more progress today! first up, a couple pics of the end tank on the IC. it's not finish welded, but just incase someone wanted to get a better idea of the configuration.




now back to the suspension

Ground control to the rescue! 8)


doug, ask and ye shall recieve



this one is pretty close, i had to remove the inner weight off the rim as it was just knicking the strut tube it's a game of mm's here


i ended up putting the upper face of the spring perch 4.25" down from the top to ensure proper tire clearance since it's now so close between the tire and strut



cleaned and painted the housings after the final welding


the spring now sits about 2" lower than it was on the stock spring perch, so before i cut the springs, i'm going to see where she sits and go from there. at this point, without cutting the spring, i can't lower it anymore.


hopefully i can achieve a ride height about here.....




the other thing i got done was the downpipe. i used a 3" bend to get be down around the CV joint from the 200 downpipe section i used.


finished it off with some header wrap


one nice thing about the 20v swap.... no messing with the steering arm 8)



annd, i also got my RS2 fan shroud in with my 200 20v fan. still have to wire it up, but i'm saving that for when i have less difficult fabrication stuff to do.

that looks great, you got me thinkin about going for two piece struts now. :-)

Wizard-of-OD wrote:you do know the camshaft bolt is a stretch bolt right?

Er, what? A 10.9 grade metric bolt can't be TTY. Otherwise it wouldn't be a 10.9. Material wise, a 10.9 is roughly equal to a Grade 8 fastener. You won't be putting a 130ksi on that bolt any time soon to make it yield.

cuatrokoop wrote:

Wizard-of-OD wrote:you do know the camshaft bolt is a stretch bolt right?

Er, what? A 10.9 grade metric bolt can't be TTY. Otherwise it wouldn't be a 10.9. Material wise, a 10.9 is roughly equal to a Grade 8 fastener. You won't be putting a 130ksi on that bolt any time soon to make it yield.

so, i guess to answer the question....

Wizard-of-OD wrote:you do know the camshaft bolt is a stretch bolt right?

no, i didn't did you?

cuatrokoop wrote:

Wizard-of-OD wrote:you do know the camshaft bolt is a stretch bolt right?

Er, what? A 10.9 grade metric bolt can't be TTY. Otherwise it wouldn't be a 10.9. Material wise, a 10.9 is roughly equal to a Grade 8 fastener. You won't be putting a 130ksi on that bolt any time soon to make it yield.

Its a stretch bolt fergie...and it costs $1.

newt wrote:

Author:  Jonathan [ Tue May 15, 2007 7:36 pm ] Post subject: 

mhb_1323 wrote:that looks great, you got me thinkin about going for two piece struts now. :-)

Do it, especially if you plan to go the KW route.

newt wrote:Insert ETKA image

So, that makes the bolt not a stretch, right?

Jonathan wrote:

newt wrote:Insert ETKA image

So, that makes the bolt not a stretch, right?

That's what I have deduced as well. Let us wait eagerly for a rebutle. .

I cant believe this is even being debated?

Wizard-of-OD wrote:I cant believe this is even being debated?

hey sparky, you brought it up

derracuda wrote:

Wizard-of-OD wrote:I cant believe this is even being debated?

hey sparky, you brought it up

Because its a valid point.Whenever you do an engine rebuild (at least for the VW Inline-4's) you change the following:
* Im shaft bolt
* Camshaft bolt
* Crankshaft bolt
I had the same thinking as well a year ago then I was showed an engine where the camshaft bolt on a 1.8T was reused and it let go. (read camshaft,not crankshaft).It costs like $1 @ most from the dealer so why not change it and use the bolt for something else less important?

Looks great so far! A few ? for you. What's the offset/width of the wheels? Which strut/hub assembly- moreso what hub offset? What are you doing for camber settings? Did you clearance fit everything with the camber setting (in the two bolts for the knuckle to strut maxed out?)

subvertdesign wrote:Looks great so far! A few ? for you. What's the offset/width of the wheels? Which strut/hub assembly- moreso what hub offset? What are you doing for camber settings? Did you clearance fit everything with the camber setting (in the two bolts for the knuckle to strut maxed out?)

the bolts holding the struts together are stock type, no adjustment other than the little bit of slack in them.

the strut assemblies are listed further back in the thread, but i'll say it again B3 fwd strut assemblies with 4kq rear wheel bearings and 5kt hubs (with some shims in an experimental stage). the offset is effectively the same as a B3 quattro with the shims.

Wizard-of-OD wrote:

cuatrokoop wrote:

Wizard-of-OD wrote:you do know the camshaft bolt is a stretch bolt right?

Er, what? A 10.9 grade metric bolt can't be TTY. Otherwise it wouldn't be a 10.9. Material wise, a 10.9 is roughly equal to a Grade 8 fastener. You won't be putting a 130ksi on that bolt any time soon to make it yield.

Its a stretch bolt fergie...and it costs $1.

No, it's not. I won't repeat myself. Nate posted the factory manual section on it too. I always use some thread locking stuff on that bolt so it doesn't back out. This is not a 1.8t, or any other VW 4cyl. What you do for those doesn't necessarily translate to a 20v or 20v 5cyl. I have NEVER replaced the cam timing cog bolt. Including the one on the 5kq that was hit by a Jeep and broke the cog. Bolt was fine, so I reused it. That was like 4 years ago.

*sigh*... well, she's not done yet.. nor back home yet. i was just too busy at the shop with all sorts of things that enough couldn't be completed to bring her home. here's my latest though....

the intercooler aside from being stripped of it's paint and cleaned... is done 8)



the oil cooler has been mounted, but i still need to run lines. i'll likely do those when i get the car back home as there's a fantastic hydraulic shop up here that i want to have make the lines.






P/S pump bracket finalized...


i got my adjustable coilover sleeves installed in the rear as well as the front. i didn't cut either front or rear so that i could see where it sat with just the perches sitting 2" lower than previously... but that didn't change things much


so off came 1.5 rings..


which after doing some spring rate calculations, will effectively raise the spring rates from 150ish lb/in.... to just over 200 lb/in. to accurately measure, we did a unloaded measurement of the spring sitting on the ground by itself, and then i put my 215lb's worth of hunky man on it and it compressed exactly 1"! nice! so now i have a car that sits like this 8)



i can still adjust them upwards since the collars are all the way down. also, the springs are_exactly_at the perfect length so that they aren't loose at full extension/droop of the strut cartridges travel.

i also thought it would be a good idea to make something to ensure the spring doesn't get unseated


rear struts completed...



also note that the oil cooler isn't hanging below the bumper


the last thing i did was toy with the front spindles.... one of the other guys here on MG (i can't remember his name, but he has the yellow URQ race car) said that swapping the spindles right to left and vise versa was worth 1.5 degrees of positive castor..... sooo i had to try it for myself turns out i got 2 degrees 8). the only issue now is.... the wheel sits too far forward and will cause major rubbing issues with the front plastics. no, i will not trim it because that will only help part of the issue. the tire will also hit the fender arch on hard bumps. so, the only options are... #A. tilt the top of the strut back to compensate and put the wheel back toward the center of the wheel well (which will also inherently increase my positive castor to a grand total of about 6 degrees). or #2. put it back and live with it the way it was sorta intended to be. i like the #A option, but it means figuring a way to move the strut tops back..... and i don't want to use camber plates because it's not going to be a full on track car that i want to make a ton of adjustments to. i'm looking at what it will take to create a new weld-in upper piece to hold the stock style upper strut mounts.

sorry for the dark first pic, but these give you an idea of how far forward it moves the wheels...




and the last thing for this update is the clearancing of the rear fender lips
i made tons of room and it turned out really nice.... wish i had done it this way on my alpine car.

i started of by drawing a line to follow...


then used the air hacksaw to start into my line...


i ended up just completely removing this screw..


then just trimmed it out all the way around..



that's it for now! i just got one of my black silicone 90's in the mail and i'm awaiting on a hump hose and a straight so i can finish up my intake plumbing when i get back.while i'm at home i need to finish up my HID conversion on the eurolights and then i can mount and wire them when i get back...along with wiring the new radiator fan up... and the dash... and fixing the trans output shaft seal leak... and finalizing the exhaust hook up... which! i almost forgot... i ordered a slick 3"-2.5" reducer made by flowmaster so i can hook my downpipe to my stebro exhaust. the reducer looks like this...


i get two in the kit... but i only need one.. so if someone needs a nice reducer.... lemme know 8)

your oilcooler is as big as my ic.....
lookin mighty nice...perty mean on those wheels...