The Project Pad

nice - that is pretty good. I've been tracking my e85 mileage on fuelly: http://www.fuelly.com/driver/edigreg/s4

Pulled a bunch of fuel out last weekend, that helped a lot for times when I'm in boost (often ). Apparently it's about 30c cheaper out in Colorado

Nice, I know I can pull more, just need to get this WB back in business.

Interesting that we are that much cheaper, it's been $2.99 for months and I was sure that I'd see a bump over the past few weeks.

Also, I'm slower than my buddy's A4 C5 'vette (stock) but it was not a blow out Pretty happy about that.

You need to quit with this boring maintenance and start with more dramatic and exciting things like turning up the boost and making videos

I have not even started the maintenance Still collecting parts!

More boost is tempting but I think better tuning would be a better bet I also think I have a boost control or boost leak which needs attention.

Not blowing things up is a project goal so I can't go too much further. Guessing that C5 is making ~275 at the wheels considering it's an auto and at 5k feet so my conservative estimate is I'm about 225. 300whp would be great but I don't see it happening without getting on the dyno (and solving the issues above).

I need a phone mount for vids

Stop making excuses, tape that phone to the dash, and go running em with your friends corvette! ;-)

PRA4WX wrote:Stop making excuses, tape that phone to the dash, and go running em with your friends corvette! ;-)

Maybe I'll tape an old one to the wiper :-D

Noticed I was blowin rings tonight

[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PpMk4TFjTyU[/youtube]

That is hilarious and awesome!

lol

Mcstiff wrote:
I need a phone mount for vids

Oh please. it's not like you know someone 15 miles away from you w/professional video and audio recording equipment or anything...

more than one really

Right now, I need to decide what to do about a clutch because when 15 PSI comes on it slips (so I'm running on the spring).

We'll set something up sometime, I know a few other interesting cars that may be interested in a cruise

What about the Southbend core replacement Ed suggested a while back?

Send in an OE clutch and get it upgraded to the spec of your choice by SB for ~$250.

Then that still leaves the PP... could be as cost effective to just get a new clutch/pp from Clutchnet.

PRY4SNO wrote:What about the Southbend core replacement Ed suggested a while back?

Send in an OE clutch and get it upgraded to the spec of your choice by SB for ~$250.

Then that still leaves the PP... could be as cost effective to just get a new clutch/pp from Clutchnet.

Yeah, I don't like the downtime of the core replacement option. I have a spare Sachs S2 (3b) pressure plate which, supposedly, was in the car a few owners ago so I'm tempted to get the Clutchnet 6BSN231 (sprung 6 button) for $165 bucks and slap it all back together. I'll upgrade the PP when the time comes but the combo of metallic and 6 button should hold as long as I have a stock bottom end and 01A! Or find an RS4 disk.

Mcstiff wrote:Yeah, I don't like the downtime of the core replacement option. I have a spare Sachs S2 (3b pressure plate) which, supposedly, was in the car a few owners ago so I'm tempted to get the Clutchnet 6BSN231 (sprung 6 button) for $165 bucks and slap it all back together. I'll upgrade the PP when the time comes but the combo of metallic and 6 button should hold as long as I have a stock bottom end and 01A! Or find an RS4 disk.

Good call.

Nice set of options on hand.

Posted a pseudo update on QWRM so may as well paste it into the record.

I still have not done the clutch. A few lightly used options popped up and I almost convinced myself to add a LWFW into the short term plan but I think I've talked myself back into KISS and a CN S5 kit. As such, this spring I have a bunch of drivability maintenance (clutch, mounts, bushings, oil cooler etc) to do which will make things nicer and enable a track day or two this season! Further, I am still on a rough street tune so, finally, investing in some time on a dyno should (I don't think I'm that good) give the ol'7aT a powah bump, aaaand I've been driving on the 7 psi WG all winter to save the clutch, which should quench my thirst for thrust.

If anyone has not guessed, my long term plan/goal is an 07K (as I am "minimally" invested in the urI5). Realistically, the order should be suspension, brakes, and transmission followed by worrying about a different engine ;-) (I need to paint some things too!). Squirreling away parts for the swap is more incremental than anything so it is always on my mind.

Can anyone confirm that a B5 S/RS4 clutch disk will work with a 7a flywheel, 3b pressure plate, and 01A? As far as I can tell, it should all fit together.

Well, at least one person thinks I'm G2G so I ordered a RS4 disk for $50 from 034 (hopefully they send me the correct part)

https://www.facebook.com/groups/1631490 ... 034795374/

Clutch showed up today. Added it to the pile including B4 hood, oil cooler, CV R&R, inner tie rod bushings, subframe bushings, transmission mounts, rear diff mounts, S2 rear bumper; guess I should get the CQ on jackstands and start turning wrenches (not that I have "spare time" lol)!

I hear you Ed, I have a bunch of half finished projects that I need to power though, but no time!

Sounds like a weekend's worth of work.

Offset the price of "free time" by sending your wife to some spa with her mother/sister/bff by selling the chillun's for black market organs.

It's more the kids than the wife. She's working today but keeping 3 girls (6, 4, 4) occupied does not really involve wrenches; they do like to ride in my Audis though.

So as you could guess I have not done much here in the past year. Before I bought 1POd90 I was prepping to replace/upgrade the CQ clutch which had been slipping at full boost for a while (I turned down the boost for longevity); this was put on hold when I bought the 90. Unfortunately, I made the unwise choice to borrow a few parts off the CQ since it was parked awaiting a clutch. This drew out the timeline for the clutch as I had parked it in my driveway so that the garage was open (another bad choice). Anyway, I replaced everything which was borrowed and found that my TPS was unresponsive and the replacement dizzy needed a hall, I figured that the TPS was not a deal breaker and I'd give jumping the cam sensor a shot (this gives you a 1/5 chance of correct timing but SHULD work. It actually did work and I was able to drive down the block and park in the garage! I felt so good about this that before I actually worked on the CQ I pulled it back out so that I could service the 90 (are we still counting bad ideas?). This brings us to my current predicament, for some reason the CQ does not want to move itself back in the garage. So I ordered a replacement hall sensor and followed the write-up on 12v.org to replace it. The process was not too bad, even though I have a different looking dizzy than in the write-up. So I got it back together, verified #1 TDC, and primed the oil before plugging the hall in to test and start. No signal, dammit! I think I may have to swap the terminals, I followed the directions but that must be it (hopefully). Not wanting to pull it apart again, I figured I'd try the emergency bypass again. I spent the rest of the afternoon/evening trying to figure out why my old tune is not working.

Now for the questions...

1. I got it to run, sporadically, by zeroing out every enrichment (warmup, afterstart, etc) and adjusting VE until it fired and ran. At best it will run for a few mins before dying but as soon as I look at adding air (idle screw or throttle) it dies immediately. If left on it's own, it will not run indefinitely (I was hoping to get some heat). I tried increasing and decreasing VE by +-10% and it did not seem to make much of a difference (BTW my WBO2 seems to not self heat and has been this way for a while). I feel like I've heard a different cranking results between rich and lean, am I dreaming? When it does not simply fun for a min or so, it seems to kick over but quickly dies (>cranking RPM 299 maybe).

2. What's up with it idling for over a min than dying? I don't see anything changing in the LOGS. I'm on a hill (BTW, why I don't simply push the effer in) but ~1/2 tank of mostly newish gas (just dumped in a couple gals of regular for good measure). It's at least getting some fuel as it starts and runs.

The real bitch is that I fully intend on pulling it apart and improving some things so it literally only needs to more ~25' (back down the driveway and drive back up). I may find a trailer to make it happen tomorrow (the city finally caught on, or I was reported by the HOA, that I've been "storing" this car in my driveway without a current title (my thought was clutch>emissions>title).

TlDr, CQ won't start regardless of being in 90% of the state I commuted with a year ago. If I had a shop this would not be an issue

Ed, still have the dizzy out of my 7A which is a reman with a steel gear if you want it. Plus, I have the scavenged oem connector from the 90 if you still want that too.

scubadave wrote:Ed, still have the dizzy out of my 7A which is a reman with a steel gear if you want it. Plus, I have the scavenged oem connector from the 90 if you still want that too.

I'm using a trailer to get it into the service position this afternoon.

I'll take that connector for sure but let me see what's what with the dizzy; I'll let you know in a week or so!