The Project Pad

Ya know Dave, I believe you're right. A test is in order. I'm still trying to implement my k&n tho. As soon as that's on I'll test it out. That's probably what the spring is accomplishing.

It stays closed. At least it was up until I sat for a minute on the side of the Rd to mess with boost PID. Right after that I started getting only 5 psi and changing PID values back to original didn't fix it. I bet it's the BPV not being routed to a vacuum source. It's so unstable already that I bet that vacuum was pulling it closed and centered *barely* before I changed turbos. I took some logs n such. BPV is always a tremendous pain since it fails when I'm far from home so all that logging us wasted during the drive home lol

I'm about to drive the car again since I put a 710 valve in. Reason being.. the 034 valve's seals are shot lol. The valve from the 7 hells! Not sure but I may go for an r1 valve now

A 710N in good shape should more than handle your power goals, why bother with an R1 if the OEM valve works?

Yeah I never had an issue with one that I've bought new. As in not 25 years old

Hokay, still only 5 psi. This is pretty weird. Inducer is fine and not rubbing or anything. I put the 710 in also. Gonna try putting the old n75 in again and routing the catch can into the intake tract again. It's vented to atm right now

Right so I think a corrupt config is my issue here. In my ecu right now, this injector output visual menu reads "none" where boost control should be on channel 7. Ho hum. I usually think the worst lol

I'll upload a newer cfg and check again...

Can't seem to upload pictures properly right now

Success!!

This is quite strange. While I'm driving and look down at my laptop for vemstune, I see that it recommends I burn my settings by illuminating "burn" in red. Except I haven't changed anything. As soon as that burn lights up I also find that channel 7 has reverted back to "none" and boost is limited to 5 psi all over again. Anybody ever see this before?

Ever so slightly off subject. My degenerate neighbor did this. He parked his trailer backwards for the first time in his life last night, probably after doing this.


Below us 20 minutes after I found it lol

Dang that was quick! I was about to say I have a spare headlight you can have, but it looks like you've got your bases covered.

Lol thanks. Maybe I'll park it by the guy's driveway and pm you next time he hits me

I fixed it where it happened so the guy could watch me while he was home. He's a dead beat divorcee with the 3 worst children I've ever had the displeasure of overhearing fight each other in their front yard and through their thin walls. No hard feelings tho

My timing vs IAT table is retarded

Even pulling lots of timing, this turbo performs very well for an 81 F day. K24 couldn't nearly keep up.

Up to 250 kpa at 4200 rpm after further learning all the methods of boost control. Seems I never did hah. Poor img through logs today. Thing is, that's over my 220 kpa target where my 2 degrees of timing was added with the w/m. So it's still pusing the base map timing there above 240 kpa. More work to come

Incidentally I did a quick 2ND gear pull past a truck and the old fella in it said in a high pitched voice "ooooooooh, fast car!" I couldn't help but smile and laugh when I heard him by window lol. Is it only street racing if there's a car you're competing against?

I was seeing a boost related issue where I couldn't break 22 psi according to the logs. I was all the way up to 100 % DC on the n75 even after the PID settings started in. The way I saw it, my intake wasn't able to provide enough vacuum to suck the WG closed above 22. I like the control system overthe 5k WG much better. I used to put a small section of vac hose with a tire inner tube valve stem in it on the top WG cap port of the 5k to goof around with the boost. I made the same and put less than a couple lbs of air into the cap on the 200 with the perch bolt cranked and sealed to the cap. I can now now hit 25 psi with my DC as low as 55% now lol. Yes, it's ghetto and no, I don't care. Runs great tho.

Was curious though if the spare boost valve from my parts car 5k would suffice as a MAC type valve for the 200 system if applying the same control system as on the 5k. Anybody done this? Marc informed me that I'd need a MAC valve to replace the n75 to accomplish this.

I ordered a mac valve from ebay to do this right.

I have a quick tuning question. For anyone in the past that upgraded their turbo, dud you find the ignition map #s were too high when changing from the base ma to custom numbers? I'm still on the base ignition numbers myself

You should take a few degrees out where the bigger turbo hits peak torque of its significantly different.

Interesting. I don't think it's TERRIBLY different since the fueling is only 10 points higher at high rpm. I will study the old fuel VE table and see what it shows with the new one. I think it's only mildly more powerful. It's still near 70 here so my ign timing is being pulled a couple degrees already. I'll look at the tune roday. Thanks

I am tuning the fuel from this run ATM. That kpa plot is a beauty

88a5tq wrote:I am tuning the fuel from this run ATM. That kpa plot is a beauty

Another guy who can't seem to keep his foot to the floor...

When tuning like this, it really is best to go 100% WOT unless you see something really wrong with AFR or hear det, etc. That way you keep the number of variables to a minimum.

You've got that thing way too rich. Look at the lambda targets. They are pretty good, but you're not meeting them very effectively. Don't be afraid to lean it out. You can't hurt anything when under 100 kPa. Don't be afraid to keep lambda at at least .9 while under 200 kPa.

loxxrider wrote:Another guy who can't seem to keep his foot to the floor...

I had the same problem for a while.

Yeah I know it too. This log has meth injection enabled. Ill drop its max output psi to 35 from 34 where I nudged it upon completing the turbo installation. Thank you for looking through it for me real quick tho. I am making a better heat shield to cover the EM where it comes VERY close to the cold side housing and I also covered the coolant and oil feed lines that are within a half inch of it. Tomorrow make you all proud lol. Ill grow my lead foot some. I wanted to take baby steps with the fueling and the ambient temps had me worried. Also, having not adjusted the ignition table had me concerned about the peak torque and when its seen. I have my doubts but wont that be whenever I first hit max boost? I don't have a 4 wheel dyno around here either :( Looks like I may be taking a road trip to the nearest one.

Anybody wanna make an investment: http://www.dynocom.net/catalog/detail.asp?iPro=103

I'm not going to post another log until I get the MAC valve in. I was reduced to 22 psi today when I did the lead ft 2nd gear pull. I did adjust the fueling table to reach my lambad targets across the board. Still another 3 psi to be had tho! I bet I'll get a quicker spool up as well after the change.

88a5tq wrote:I'm not going to post another log until I get the MAC valve in. I was reduced to 22 psi today when I did the lead ft 2nd gear pull. I did adjust the fueling table to reach my lambad targets across the board. Still another 3 psi to be had tho! I bet I'll get a quicker spool up as well after the change.

It wouldn't hurt to post the log anyway since that area of the map is still important to have tuned right.

Why do you think it will speed spool up? Aren't you using the N75 now with VEMS? From what I remember from that log, it was calling for 100% duty cycle as soon as you went WOT, so having a different valve shouldn't help spool at all.

My thinking is this: I'm pulling vacuum from a cobra head 3" turbo boot and the k&n filter is HUGE so there may not be enough vacuum going directly to the n75 to suck the WG shut hard enough to produce the most effective spool. I figure it's easier to "push" the cap shut 100% instead with a very strong supply of manifold pressure. I'm purely making an assumption of course but hoping I'm right I poked the n75 vac port through the cobra head near the right angle area btw (good pressed fit). I believe the resulting 22 psi is the max the turbo will produce based on the limit of the current WG spring and the vacuum being supplied. When I added a couple lbs air to the cap side, it easily made the 25 psi I requested AND with almost half the duty cycle!

Oh ok I didn't realize that you were doing a whole different control scheme. I think your logic is... Logical