The Project Pad

I should have clarified that the ground control kit gives you coilovers in the end result. They are definitely the next thing on the list as far as mods go. That might not happen until after the fall though. Again, this is something that is taking place of me getting the holset on there, but I can be patient in return for a COMPLETE build that includes all great components for an all around awesome car. I think I want a roof rack before the Holset goes on too 8)

anyway, igor mod is this

http://www.elektro.com/~audi/alignment/

Thanks to nuugen for helping me out with all the suspension infos I needed!

ah thats right, ok i forgot about oem camber plates on the 200 20v's, nice option

im on 2B c/o's all round its great, handles better than my b5 with sways and good tires, and i dont even have a sway bar on the 4k at all, and still havent driven with the nice new 3,4,5 gears and torsen center 8)

UGHHHHHHHHHHH

just got done installing the "new" fuel pump and relay. Apparently it works really well because when I was on my way to get some gas I got on it a little and the car nearly died from being too rich lol. (started sputtering, etc. and then came back to life after a few seconds)

The only problem is the fuel gauge doesn't read anymore. I took it in and out like 3 times trying to get it to read, but to no avail. I made sure it wasnt stuck on anything, etc. I think the rod got bent away from the thing that it rubs up against in order to give a reading. What a stupid idea for a fuel sender.

So I guess this means its on for Friday morning to put the brakes and wheels on and get a tune so I can go fast

Chris,

Its a fuel pressure problem. The stock pump on a V8 is a Bosch 040, and here it is compared to the Bosch 044. Notice how high the pressure is.. maybe your FPR isn't doing the correct job anymore and needs to be reset (hoping you have a adj FPR). :-)

Bosch 040 Fuel Pump Specs:

Bosch Part Number: 0 580 254 040
Minimum Current: 12 Volts
Operating Pressure: 94 PSI (6.5 Bar)
Minimum Flow @ Outlet: 80 GPH (300 LPH)
Fuel Pump Location: In Tank
High Temperature Reduction: 8 GPH (30 LPH)
Weight: 930 Grams (2.05 Pounds)

Fuel Pump Connections:
Inlet: Open Base
Outlet: M10 x 1.0
Electrical: Positive M6 / Negative M5

compared to the 044 specs:

Bosch 044 Fuel Pump Specs:
Bosch Part Number: 0 580 254 044
Minimum Current: 12 Volts
Operating Pressure: 72.5 PSI (5 Bar)
Minimum Flow @ Outlet: 80 GPH (300 LPH)
Fuel Pump Location: In-Line
High Temperature Reduction: 8 GPH (30 LPH)
Weight: 1030 Grams (2.27 Pounds)
Fuel Pump Connections:
Inlet: M18 x 1.5
Outlet: M12 x 1.5
Electrical: Positive M6 / Negative M5

ahh thank you so much!

I do not have an adj FPR...but I guess since I'm on standalone we can tune around that. Otherwise I guess order has to go in for an adj FPR lol

I think I might go to a large fuel cell soon anyhow just because it is something that I will be able to use in the future, and also because I don't want no stinkin 040 and the fuel sender is pissin me off!

Chris,

You should have taken the instrument cluster relay I left laying around, just in case.

In South Fl., the junk yard that I have seen with the most old school Audis (specially type 44) is located in Grifith Road and SR 441 in Fort Lauderdale.

I know that in the 5KTQ (type 44) cars the trunk can be opened via the ski bag orifice. Like you, I had to change the fuel pump and had stored the new parts and tools in the trunk of the car and suddenly the trunk would not open!! :curses: :frustrated: What a real bitch it was...I had to get a long stick along with flashlight to push on the locking rod and after 1/2 hour or so sweating my ass off I finaly got the trunk opened.

In all, I replaced the fuel pump about 3 times for various reasons during a period of two weeks. I can tell you that by the third time I could literally do it with my eyes closed from beggining to end. With and without fuel in the tank :bashtard: I can tell you that fuel on skin has a burning sensation that I'm sure if expose to too many times could definitely have adverse consequences.

Meeting up with you and your gang would definitely be cool, however, I now live in Ocala. Did you ever meet Cody from Delray Beach when he lived here some three years ago?

Hanging out with him was really cool. His dad used to own a Porsche/ Audi and anything german mechanic/tech shop. We used to hang around in the shop. Cody is also well-versed on german cars, specially Porsches and type 44 Audis. Too bad he and his dad moved to North Carolina some three years ago.

Yes, I own an '86 5KTQ int he same color as your car and an '85 & '87 VW Quantum Syncro wagon (QSW) which is basically a 4KQ in wagon version. I have also been close to getting a 200 20vt in few ocassions but have not happen for one reason or another.

BTW, I know you said you're taking offers on those wheels, but I think you should give us a ball-park figure to work with :bump:

-Regards,


-Louis

Pics below, hopefully they post.

Attachment ( 17542 ) : 85QSW2.jpg

Know what I was thinking? Its called a fuel pressure REGULATOR for a reason, so it doesnt matter if the pumps max pressure is higher or not. Either way, it will be taken care of via the tune, not an FPR.

LDC007 wrote:Chris,

You should have taken the instrument cluster relay I left laying around, just in case.

In South Fl., the junk yard that I have seen with the most old school Audis (specially type 44) is located in Grifith Road and SR 441 in Fort Lauderdale.

I know that in the 5KTQ (type 44) cars the trunk can be opened via the ski bag orifice. Like you, I had to change the fuel pump and had stored the new parts and tools in the trunk of the car and suddenly the trunk would not open!! :curses: :frustrated: What a real bitch it was...I had to get a long stick along with flashlight to push on the locking rod and after 1/2 hour or so sweating my ass off I finaly got the trunk opened.

In all, I replaced the fuel pump about 3 times for various reasons during a period of two weeks. I can tell you that by the third time I could literally do it with my eyes closed from beggining to end. With and without fuel in the tank :bashtard: I can tell you that fuel on skin has a burning sensation that I'm sure if expose to too many times could definitely have adverse consequences.

Meeting up with you and your gang would definitely be cool, however, I now live in Ocala. Did you ever meet Cody from Delray Beach when he lived here some three years ago?

Hanging out with him was really cool. His dad used to own a Porsche/ Audi and anything german mechanic/tech shop. We used to hang around in the shop. Cody is also well-versed on german cars, specially Porsches and type 44 Audis. Too bad he and his dad moved to North Carolina some three years ago.

Yes, I own an '86 5KTQ int he same color as your car and an '85 & '87 VW Quantum Syncro wagon (QSW) which is basically a 4KQ in wagon version. I have also been close to getting a 200 20vt in few ocassions but have not happen for one reason or another.

BTW, I know you said you're taking offers on those wheels, but I think you should give us a ball-park figure to work with :bump:

-Regards,


-Louis

Pics below, hopefully they post.

\

Hey, no I never met Cody. I just got into the oldschool audi stuff last year.

Well since you live in Ocala that gives you even more reason to meet up since I go to school in gainesville ahaha.

I have a few good friends into dubs up there and other young dudes into BMW's and such. (one turbo M3, a turbo M50 318, etc., E30 guys, etc.)

so when I go up I'll let you know!

loxxrider wrote:Know what I was thinking? Its called a fuel pressure REGULATOR for a reason, so it doesn't matter if the pumps max pressure is higher or not. Either way, it will be taken care of via the tune, not an FPR.

While I agree with the statement in general, FPR in general will take pressure "x" and drop it to "y" and that that delta is static, typically they don't deal well when "x" becomes higher by a significantly higher amount.

Either way; "fixed" on Friday is a good thing.

Kuma would appreciate this one; 5KTQ engine bay.

Attachment ( 17543 ) : Audi4.JPG

Ah yes, you do have a point. Its probably a combination of the pump being better and the fuel pressure being kinda higher.

Oh and I forgot to add to LCD's response...I dont really know of a price to start them on. I suppose the tires alone are worth like $400 new, but of course I wouldn't sell them to you guys like that. Someone give me a good idea for what to sell them for. I need the money so I dont want to let them go super cheap...plus they are in super nice condition. I also don't want to rip anyone off of course.

OK, not much to update but its still on for tomorrow morning (tune car and mount brakes/wheels).

On another note, I rode in a B5 S4 with twin WORKED over RS6 turbos...that mother RIDES! I'll be doing a full shoot with it soon, but here is a pic...also rode in my other friend's 3076 B5 avant. Its fun, but the S4 just leaves it like the avant is on it brakes lol.

Today went like complete shit. We didn't accomplish anything even tho we worked on the car for about 7 hours.

Car just straight up started dying on the way up to my Tom's shop. When I got there we started diagnosing. When the computer was hooked up we saw that the ECU was completely losing power. Not exactly sure what else on the car was losing power.

This happens on both VEMS boxes I have. Lots of troubleshooting involving crank sensor stuff, grounds, etc. and we came up with nothing.

Hooked the stock ECU up to come home and it RAN LIKE A CHAMP other than the fact that I had to go slow since I didn't have my MAF with me.

Its not a chance thing either. The car died on the other ecu like 20 or 30 times in the time we were trying to diagnose it. Regardless, I'll be driving this car on stock ECU for the next few days just to ensure that it wont do it again. I just drove about 40 miles with no prob. I will switch back to the VEMS in a few days just to triple check that its the box or some config stuff in the box.

Either way, I am pretty pissed off at this freakin box and my whole experience with it. I am not sure what my options are right now, but I am going to be trying something new if all goes well.

I want to start chiptuning for the 3b. AKA custom tunes on chips for a 3b setup. For example if you have 1000cc injectors, I should be able to have tunes that will work pretty well for any 1000cc setup on similar turbo...this is really similar to how the unitronic files are on MKIV's and such. One file for a particular injector size roughly matched to a particular turbo/setup.

I have all of the resources I need to just do this. I just need to know what software people use to write the chips for these cars in particular.

PLEASE HELP OUT IF YOU KNOW ANYTHING. Its for the good of the common audi community!








...btw the plan is to do the brakes on Monday now :/

someone knows this, come on.

I use "Flash & Burn", it'll take a .bin file and burn it to the chip. from Moates.net

You are the effin man!

Thanks a bunch. So if I do end up going this way, I will just use the stock dizzy and get a rotor for it, modify that, and call it a day. Power potential is unlimited :woowoo:

Hey, I actually need a rom editor...not a burner (got that already). Any info on that?

I think the info about the pumps is wrong, here is the data from bosch site: 040 102ltr/h 6.5bar, 044 200ltr/h 5bar. Thats a big diference, so the 044 might help you

Well regardless the pump that came out of my car doesn't have 044 stamped on it in the part number anywhere...strange.

here are specs of most widly used bosch pumps:

very cool! thanks, that is nice to have

loxxrider wrote:So if I do end up going this way, I will just use the stock dizzy and get a rotor for it, modify that, and call it a day. Power potential is unlimited :woowoo:

I hope you are kidding. If you want to make a lot of power reliably, you need to dump the distributor. Spark jump bends rods. People might argue that it won't happen, and that some guy in Europe runs the distributor, but it needs to go. You need coil/plug to reliably light a heavily boosted engine.

It's cool to see you trying new stuff, but your experiences are exactly why I bought a standalone controller. I plugged it in and two days later my car was totally tuned and making ~400whp. It's worked every day since as well. I know they cost more, but your time has to be worth something...

Good luck. Hope you get it sorted it.

I sort of agree with you.

"You need coil/plug to reliably light a heavily boosted engine."

Tell that to my bud making near 1k hp on distributor on multiple engines (and 500+whp on COUNTLESS others)...Now I know that doesn't apply to a 3B, but if I was to get a different dizzy setup, then it would be perfectly acceptable.

Another option is to run stock ECU, but run coils off of a standalone ignition controller. That would eliminate the chance of spark hop of course.

Your last statement doesn't make too much sense to me(unless you were being sarcastic?). My experiences with it have been nothing but horrible so far to be honest. I have spent since DECEMBER trying to get the damned thing sorted out. Its not like I have been doing it by myself either. My time IS worth something and this ecu has wasted way too much of it. Its also wasted a lot of my money since I have paid for shipping of them back and forth a time or two (insured for a good amount of money of course) and for the amount of money I spent, I have absolutely NOTHING to show for it. I paid for this ecu last August.

Thank you though for the kind words (really). I would love for it to get sorted too, but I just don't see that happening...especially with the kind of customer service I have available to me. Its just frustrating. As much as I want to agree with what you are saying, my experience so far just tells me otherwise.

Well I was trying to not make you lose hope on your current course. I knew you had a lot of time in it. I'd do one of two things. Run a piggy back timing controller over the stock ecu and monkey with injectors and pressures to get it running pretty well. You'll make as much power as you want but driveability will suffer (and fuel economy). Or, get a IIc, a Haltech E11, or an Autronic and do the full monte with it.

I still think distributors, carbs, and automatic transmissions are the devil...

123quattro wrote:I still think distributors, carbs, and automatic transmissions are the devil...

:stupid: :stupid: hells yeah im with this guy