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Posted: Thu Apr 10, 2008 1:11 am
by HT Motorsport
Man those F5 diffs get about

Nice work as usual Derek. Now i am really jonesing to get back in my shop!
Posted: Thu Apr 10, 2008 2:52 am
by KAPLOWW
Do my eyes decieve me, or did you just redrill your stock hubs to get the bolt pattern you wanted on your hubs?
Makes me wonder if I can squeeze 5x100 into mine... As I have a set of super sweet wheels and brakes I could use if possible... hmmm I might have to take a trip the machine shop!
Posted: Thu Apr 10, 2008 4:16 am
by Wizard-of-OD
Nice work D!
Suggestion:
for the front tab on that fabricated subframe,weld a plate below to join the 2 pieces more securely rather than a bead weld.
Posted: Thu Apr 10, 2008 7:41 am
by cuatrokoop
KAPLOWW wrote:Do my eyes decieve me, or did you just redrill your stock hubs to get the bolt pattern you wanted on your hubs?
Makes me wonder if I can squeeze 5x100 into mine... As I have a set of super sweet wheels and brakes I could use if possible... hmmm I might have to take a trip the machine shop!
Your eyes deceive you. Those are rather modified by the addition of a backing plate and machining to both for this to work. You cannot go to 5x100 on an Audi 4x108 hub. Take a look at the back side of the hub some time, it has several thin areas where strength was not an issue, or rather where there are no bolt holes and threads.
Posted: Thu Apr 10, 2008 7:48 am
by cuatrokoop
Wizard-of-OD wrote:Nice work D!
Suggestion:
for the front tab on that fabricated subframe,weld a plate below to join the 2 pieces more securely rather than a bead weld.
The box tube section on the front for the SF mount? I can see plating the inboard (vertical-open) side but not the bottom.
Posted: Thu Apr 10, 2008 8:18 am
by derracuda
Wizard-of-OD wrote:Nice work D!
Suggestion:
for the front tab on that fabricated subframe,weld a plate below to join the 2 pieces more securely rather than a bead weld.
i'm not done yet man

i gotta fab up the control arm mountings so that the thing can be put up in the car and be used, then get the final diff position situated and the brackets for it. the rails extend out the back so i have some place to put rear sway bar brackets.
Posted: Thu Apr 10, 2008 9:23 am
by Wizard-of-OD
cuatrokoop wrote:Wizard-of-OD wrote:Nice work D!
Suggestion:
for the front tab on that fabricated subframe,weld a plate below to join the 2 pieces more securely rather than a bead weld.
The box tube section on the front for the SF mount? I can see plating the inboard (vertical-open) side but not the bottom.
And why not?
Posted: Thu Apr 10, 2008 5:02 pm
by derracuda
two words... YA HOO
285/30/18 is a good deal shorter than 265/35/18.... and more square... and fit my car much better

you know that feeling when you score a touch down and you pull your arm down and go " UUHHHH" .... i did that
about an inch shorter over all, but about an inch more contact patch on the ground


and in comparison to my old ronals, they aren't so much in the way out at the fenders..

turbo twist with 285/30/18

ronal with 215/40/17


285/30.....

vs. 265/35....

now with the 285's, i can turn the wheel and tire just about all the way as far as stock without hitting anything inside the wheel well 8) and i still have a trick up my sleeve for .5-.75" more clearance up front by just pulling the front edge of the fender out a little. the stock plastic fender liner holds the fender where it's at, but if that's modified.... mmm, a touch more room is available and greatfully recieved 8)
stock tires are wieny sized!


Posted: Thu Apr 10, 2008 5:52 pm
by cuatrokoop
Wizard-of-OD wrote:The box tube section on the front for the SF mount? I can see plating the inboard (vertical-open) side but not the bottom.
And why not?[/quote]
Because it wouldn't add as much rigidity as enclosing the open side of the tube.
Posted: Thu Apr 10, 2008 6:46 pm
by nismo
Hey Derek, any thoughts about modding a 4x108 into 5x108 and then doing 5x108 to 5x112 or 5x130? Would that be a worse idea?
Eric
Posted: Thu Apr 10, 2008 6:50 pm
by RSCoupe
Wow, nice progress Derek. Looks great. Very inspirational.
Having that much rubber on the road will be sweet.
Posted: Thu Apr 10, 2008 7:06 pm
by derracuda
nismo wrote:Hey Derek, any thoughts about modding a 4x108 into 5x108 and then doing 5x108 to 5x112 or 5x130? Would that be a worse idea?
Eric
i could probably build whatever you like using this method... one hole will always interfere, but i think i might have a solution for that.
thanks Mark! i'm looking forward to driving this thing with this much rubber on the road

Posted: Thu Apr 10, 2008 8:04 pm
by thegetawaycar
i saw some porsche turbo twists up on audifans coming out of sacramento. tell me youre not bailing on that idea!
Posted: Thu Apr 10, 2008 8:06 pm
by derracuda
thegetawaycar wrote:i saw some porsche turbo twists up on audifans coming out of sacramento. tell me youre not bailing on that idea!
you mean the four fronts that i'm not using? yeah, those are mine... wanna buy em'?

Posted: Thu Apr 10, 2008 8:14 pm
by thegetawaycar
psh, me and what army of benjamins? im broke dood. check my thread and notice the lack of progress.
uncle sam and his acronym friends weren't nice to me this spring :curses:
Posted: Thu Apr 10, 2008 11:50 pm
by Wizard-of-OD
cuatrokoop wrote:Because it wouldn't add as much rigidity as enclosing the open side of the tube.
:? ...Both will do the same Job fergie.
Back to the topic @ Hand.Derek you redoing the front as well?
Posted: Thu Apr 10, 2008 11:53 pm
by yodasfro
:-)
Posted: Fri Apr 11, 2008 4:47 am
by WAUG0806
going to need 2 big turbos on your v8 to light those big meats up 8)
Posted: Fri Apr 11, 2008 6:03 am
by WAUG0806
a little doodle of taking the idea further...
why not machine the original hub down smaller than the diameter of the old holes (or new bolt circle if going smaller) and thinner to accept a plate on each side and make 2 plates (possibly identical pieces in front and behind)
this way you could drill for various new bolt circles and have new metal around new stud holes...
you would probably need to "pin" new plates to old hub to make sure they could not spin on you... or maybe use countersunk machine screws like the ones that (used to) hold rotors to hubs...
just a thought
<edit> could probably make a single plate with a smaller inner hole and make it work too
Attachment ( 11381 ) : hub sandwich.JPG
Posted: Fri Apr 11, 2008 7:44 am
by derracuda
Wizard-of-OD wrote:cuatrokoop wrote:Because it wouldn't add as much rigidity as enclosing the open side of the tube.
:? ...Both will do the same Job fergie.
Back to the topic @ Hand.Derek you redoing the front as well?
yes... engine/trans needs to go back 1" and down 1". the front suspension points need moving as well, and i'll be incorporating the new front subframe as an engine/trans cradle like the newer audi cars. plus it'll be a little more tied into the frame than the stocker for rigidity.
Posted: Fri Apr 11, 2008 9:39 am
by Corey
hey Derek, is that going to have the power to turn 4 of them? :bashtard:
Posted: Fri Apr 11, 2008 3:39 pm
by derracuda
it'll have just enough power

i'd rather be a little underpowered but be able to keep my speed in the corners 8)
Posted: Fri Apr 11, 2008 10:12 pm
by rs2coupe
Amazing stuff Derek... I am very impressed. Interested to see what the final product looks like. For my rs2coupe project however I'd like to stick with OEM bits to get her rolling...but I definitely want you to working on her. Parts are still coming in so I'll let you know.
on topic; your 4k is looking mighty brutal :wink:
Posted: Sat Apr 12, 2008 6:53 am
by nismo
You're doing what Audi should have done 22 years ago.
Eric
Posted: Sat Apr 12, 2008 9:21 am
by bimmerboy
I'm going to be honest and say at first I didn't like the idea of the twists. Just not a big wheel kind of guy. But now seeing it in action -- almost, it looks effin awesome. And you can't complain 280s 8)