The Project Pad

Exhaust supplies from Columbia River Mandrel showed up yesterday - went with Aluminized steel because there are other parts that require the money needed for stainless (twice the price). All in, I'm at $348 for vbands/clamps, cat, flex pipe, aluminized pipe, EGT and O2 bungs, and a 3" stainless ebay muffler with tips (all without shipping). Downpipe will be wrapped at some point, so not worried aesthetically. Starting to wonder if I'll even use the flex pipe though. The stock system didn't have one, and there isn't much room for it either.

Casey, find a way to get a flex in there. I had no problem fitting one on my car right about where your dp ends currently. It did hang slightly low, but not too bad. No flex= crack... especially if you ever hit your exhaust on anything which I used to all the time when the car was really low over speed bumps and such.

loxxrider wrote:Casey, find a way to get a flex in there. I had no problem fitting one on my car right about where your dp ends currently. It did hang slightly low, but not too bad. No flex= crack... especially if you ever hit your exhaust on anything which I used to all the time when the car was really low over speed bumps and such.

Ahh good call! I'll have to find a way to get the flex pipe and cat in there.... or shroud my flex pipe to look like a cat? haha

yes, flex is a must, but try and have a support somewhere close to it or it'll sag over time, thats what happened on my LGT and then I ended up dragging the flex and flange on everything rather than the rest of the exhaust.

my recommendation is to have the flex away from a flange some or you won't really be able to leverage (literally) the ability to use it when taking the exhaust on or off. I'll pop over after this weekend and find a spot wit'cha

Looks sooo good, nice layout all around. Getting close now!

Thanks! Managed to get the exhaust to just beyond the center cross member thing... I placed the flex joint just after it. Forgot to take any pics though.... So the cat is just off of the down pipe, then a couple straight sections to get me past the cross member and then the flex joint.

I'm looking for input on WB O2 placement - I was thinking midway down the down pipe. Opinions? Also, EGT location?

Today I'm headed to Monticello, NY for Rally New York for the weekend to crew for my buddy Groff ^ he posted earlier. Come check out his 20vt B3 90 rally car in action!!

search noob

but seriously, the closer to the turbo it is, the more whacky the readings will be, so 6" away like mine currently is the number will jump all over because the exhaust stream isn't real refined at that point, 12-24" away it'll still be reactive to the changes but will be less 'finicky' dyno's are the at the tailpipe and the lag isn't that terrible so don't worry too much about exact distance. be more worried about the rotation of it, somewhere between 10 and 2 o'clock so it doesn't accumulate moisture from heat cycling and soot and everything else as quickly causing false readings or it to burn out.

EGT is a nice to have on gassers, that being said normally in the exhaust mani closest to the heat source because what you're trying to monitor is the cylinder temp in theory for knock or prevention of such by ensuring the right amount of fuel when combined with the AFR over the torque curve. If not comfortable going into the mani, as close to the turbo as possible typically. its not going to give you useful data the further away from the source it gets. and really is going to mostly help with tuning spool up on that big turbo.

PS come say hi this weekend!
http://www.rallynewyork.net

Yep, and for tuning you can always tell how many iterations back the WB02 signal is so as long as you take that into account, you can put it as far back as you want.

groff wrote:search noob

but seriously, the closer to the turbo it is, the more whacky the readings will be, so 6" away like mine currently is the number will jump all over because the exhaust stream isn't real refined at that point, 12-24" away it'll still be reactive to the changes but will be less 'finicky' dyno's are the at the tailpipe and the lag isn't that terrible so don't worry too much about exact distance. be more worried about the rotation of it, somewhere between 10 and 2 o'clock so it doesn't accumulate moisture from heat cycling and soot and everything else as quickly causing false readings or it to burn out.

EGT is a nice to have on gassers, that being said normally in the exhaust mani closest to the heat source because what you're trying to monitor is the cylinder temp in theory for knock or prevention of such by ensuring the right amount of fuel when combined with the AFR over the torque curve. If not comfortable going into the mani, as close to the turbo as possible typically. its not going to give you useful data the further away from the source it gets. and really is going to mostly help with tuning spool up on that big turbo.

PS come say hi this weekend!
http://www.rallynewyork.net

Says the guy with the low post count. Thanks professor, I know what they're for! :heart:

COME TO RALLY NEW YORK THIS WEEKEND!

OMG.. I can't believe. you done with your 200 20v everything what is my plan to do with mine .
there is lot of options , how to make audi 200 a better car. but 2 same minds .. this is strange !
don't forget to make iron bushes for front and rear subframe.

casey, not to be a downer, but that turo/header brace really needs to be able to have flex and mvement in it.

the header will try to expand under heat and the brace will hold the turbo flange in the same spot all the time and the mani will bend and crack as a result.

it needs to allow for manifold expansion in order to do its job correctly

^^^ I was thinking the same, but that manifold cracking is sorta a given.

loxxrider wrote:^^^ I was thinking the same, but that manifold cracking is sorta a given.

yeah but a brace that accelerates cracking isnt what he was going for im sure

groff wrote:PS come say hi this weekend!
http://www.rallynewyork.net

I was there:)

A bunch of your car are here:
http://mcboost.smugmug.com/photos/swfpo ... Key=gmfghP



Big:
http://gallery.mcboost.com/albums/userp ... 1_copy.jpg

seriously awesome photos in there, thanks for the support!

my2000apb wrote:

loxxrider wrote:^^^ I was thinking the same, but that manifold cracking is sorta a given.

yeah but a brace that accelerates cracking isnt what he was going for im sure

Definitely not! Thanks for the insight, I'll rethink my approach!

If you use a small angle approximation (assume that the header only grows a few cm or so) then the little spherical bearing type things on a rigid rod will do the trick. If you can't assume small angle changes, then a fixed rod will not work. One could use something more like how an air strut behaves, but in mechanical form. Anyway, just do what normal people do and make a brace out of a couple spherical bearings or heim joints or whatever.

Last threadjack, the jump video:

Link to video

FWIW there's nothing fancy about this over priced piece
http://www.034motorsport.com/engine-com ... p-264.html

Allowable 8)

---

---

---

---

---

---