Derracudas zermatt 20vt,6spd, 351awhp - July 4th drive vid

[derracuda]

i haven't checked the FPR, but my problem seems to be cleared up for now .... oh well but it is still weak in the idle department :( i have checked to see that the idle motor is working, and it is.



ok, finally got to finish up the taillights...

i had to modify the brackets that the center lights bolt to so that they would sit almost even with the outer taillights. for some reason the center section on these all reds like to sit higher on the 4kq's.


i also made a little plate for the top section where i had to cut and narrow the light


and in this here JB weld is a piece of SS tig welding rod


ruh roh!!


once i got the wires fixed... no more blowing the right taillight fuse..ahh, much better


i also got the engine up to temp and had the fan cycle on.... i have the fan setup to run two speeds right now.. low and medium. i never got past low and it cools down RIGHT NOW haha. i think i'm gonna dig this set up for sure!!

that's it for tonight! maybe some more tomorrow night depending on work around here.

[84urq20v]

Yeah I've had the full 200 20V fan setup for a few years now - have _never_ heard hurricane speed come on. I also have a manual fan switch for low and medium speeds and like you say - medium speed cools things down VERY fast. FWIW reason I have the manual setup and the normal full auto is because I often end up having to drive pretty slow before parking - long enough for engine temps to get to about 105-110C - so I run the fan for the last few minutes to cool the system prior to shutdown. Overkill - probably. But I like it.

Nice project for sure.

Brandon

[derracuda]

thanks for the compliments brandon your UR looks great in 0-60 8)


so far, the fan has only come on the lowest speed possible. i have it running through the 200's rad. fan switch, so the two lower speeds will be activated first, and then i have to wire up the hurricane speed to my A/C switch for major overkill racing mode

[84urq20v]

Yeah funny you say that. Actually that is Bruce Bell's car - although we both have Tornado 84s'. He lives down that way and I'm in Denver. So that's really a photo caption misprint. His is an absolutely beautiful, stock car. Mine is way mo' modded.

Not sure if you intended for only low speed to come on - but as I understand it, low speed in factory form is only supposed to come on w/ A/C and for after-run function when you shut the motor off. While driving med speed should cycle on/off to maintain temp within range. And of course hurricane speed when things get a little too toasty.

Personally I like the idea of having low speed stay on if you are in stop/go traffic on a real hot day.

Brandon

[derracuda]

i looked it up in the manual, and as far as i can figure it out, this is how it goes....

relay #1 controls 1st speed through the resistor plate, it's the lowest speed (it may be tied into the after run as well, i didn't look at that as i don't have it hooked up at all)

relay #2 controls 2nd speed through the resistor plate, it's the medium speed

hurricane speed is for when the A/C is on and it's everything is generally HOT

i like having the minimalist speed used to maintain normal temps as it's less electrical draw on the system.


ha, funny about the UR not being yours... someone must have had your name on the brain, and i'm sure the other guy is annoyed that someone elses name got put on his cherry car

[84urq20v]

yeah I'm not up on the who controls what - I just know I've sat with Steve a few times as he compared wiring diagrams and I've posted to the 200 list on AF about when the different stages come on. That said that fan will allow for all sorts of error as it pulls so much air through...

Brian did email me question about my car a while back then never heard anything. So it musta been a small brain fart. Bruce..Brandon both Tornado Red 84's in CO...

Brandon

[rocco_16v]

I've managed to setup all the front suspension out of an 5KT into an '86 CGT but have found one critical problem the outer CV joints. These CV Joints are 26 Splines male threaded. I was told the same CV joint is used on the rear axles of the 80 Quattros from 88-88/3. Are the rear drive axles of the 80 Quattro the same lenght of the '86 CGT front ones?

I Used the driver side axle off the donor Automatic '87 5KT and it worked perfectly on the driver side of the CGT, but the donor car had the passenger side axle missing thus I don't know if the passenger side axle would work as well as the driver side did. I'll but the entire axle if I'm sure it'll work.

I did have to disassemble the inner CV Joints and then used the center portion (the one that goes on the actual axle) from the 5KT joint and the rest of the joint from the CGT (5KT joints are 108mm and CGT/4K joints are 100mm) the inner CV boot came from the CGT.

I can say that all parts used yet can be ordered and replaced with little or no modifications using only conventional household tools like a power drill, a round file, etc. I wanted to have the commodity of replacing any part without machine shop costs.

As for the rear, I already have a solution for the rear brake setup but it does includes sending both side rear wheel stub axles from a 16V VW to a machine shop! Then swap the stub axle from the 5kT ones with the modified VW 16v ones. The rear brake setup will need machine shop work because it was not possible for me to locate a rear disc brake axle from a 4K/CGT/80 locally and shipping is out of the question unless its shipped free or very, very, very cheap (I live in Puerto Rico).

[eventuallyblue]

Woo just spent a couple hours in this thread... Nice work man!

[derracuda]

thanks Jesse! when are you getting back in the audi game? i gotta nice 4kq sitting in the wings if you're interested

[Wizard-of-OD]

Everytime I see you post I expect an update with pics....so far none.Stop disappointing me?

[derracuda]

Everytime I see you post I expect an update with pics....so far none.Stop disappointing me?

you want pics of wires? that's been the major hurdle to get over. i'll be getting pics of the dash being refinished for sure. otherwise most of the rest of the car is together and about ready to go

[02CHUCK]

Derek
IIRC
The #1 speed on the fan comes on with the A/C and the afterrun pump
The #2 speed comes on as the car starts to get good and warm.
If you let the car idle and get warm that is the fan speed that should be turned on.
The #3 speed is for when the car is getting really hot.
I have never had the #3 speed come on even with a/c on durng the summer.

[derracuda]

ARG! this thing is still running rich and stalling out once it's warmed up.

i checked the 02 sensor and its reading a fairly steady .8 volts if i hold the throttle open. i swapped the 02 and MAF out with the ones from the AAN i have here and the car runs exactly the same :( it stumbles and blows rich black smoke out the tail pipe. i'm not sure where to check next.. :(


on a good note, i did fix the over 2k rpm oil pressure buzzer warning... i forgot to hook up the sensor on the side of the block it was there, but one wire was off. hooked it up and bam, no more annoying buzzer at sustained 2500 rpms.

not thinking i would be doing a dash swap when i dealt with the engine harness, i didn't run the temp gauge sender wire up all the way through the harness. soooo, i had to run an external wire for it. i did that and i now have a temp gauge that functions and that makes all the gauges functional now!

i also got a spare tire setup for it. the stocker is 4lug 15'' with a low profile tire. but with 5lug.. that won't work so i took one of my 5kt spare tires with the tall tire... and swapped em'! so now i have a low profile 15" spare for the car.




my list of things to finish up...
dash cluster covering
cruise control wiring to the switch
air filter setup
panelling under the car (i'll put some pics of how that's going)
put some holes in the rear parcel shelf to access the adjustable strut tops-done
install rear seat-done
fix front windows
figure out rich running condition
make another set of front tie rods up as i cut these ones a bit too short... because right now they are almost maxed out adjustment wise
wire/relay the headlights
register
insure
drive the freakin' thing!

[SeStone]

Is the vac line connected to the FPR? IAT sensor reading right?

Sam

[derracuda]

according to SJM's site, the air temp sensor only controls boost and timing. i did however still check the IAT sensor and it reads .424 OHMS

i also hooked up a manual vacuum gauge to the FPR and ECU and both hold vacuum perfectly.

[20v90q]

Not sure if you checked this or not but how is the ECT at the back of the head?

[derracuda]

Not sure if you checked this or not but how is the ECT at the back of the head?

i can't remember exactly the specs, but i checked it last time i was looking at the car (a couple weeks ago), and it came in within spec.

[84urq20v]

Isn't spec for the IAT 450 - 550 - going off of memory here...

Brandon

[Lt. Sarge]

Good job Derek! No pressure or anything, but you need to hurry up and get this car finished so:
1. We can go on fast country rides again
2. You can have a cool car to drive again
3. We can continue being friends

How's that for motivation! Numbered lists fool!

[derracuda]

more dash completion

i had to make a bracket of some sort to help solidify the column mounting since i cut some of it away. it was fairly stiff once i bolted it up tight, but i wanted to make sure it doesn't go anywhere at all

i made a cardboard template to bend and cut into how i wanted the bracket to fit, and then i traced it on some steel, cut it out, and started bending on my lines...





i drilled holes in it so that the column bolts pass through the bracket, i also put some extra screws in the top section to help tie everything in.


i also have been working on my bondo techniques


starting to take shape...




i cleaned up the insides so they don't have big bubbly goobers... that wouldn't be very professional and i threw some black paint on it so it doesn't stick out so bad until i get it covered with some black suede.



slowly but surely... 8)



i need to trim up the kick panel as it interferes a bit with the dash section... oh well.

[Chad T]

Wow that turned out good! You have to do a lot of whittling on that?

[boxflares]

Looks great- how did you get the B3/B4 steering wheel to fit the 4KQ?

[Audilard]

Man I want that steering wheel!!!

[AudiSport4000]

Man I want that steering wheel!!!

They are super easy to find, and buy!

Looking good Derek, I LOVE the 5000 turbo clusters

[RSCoupe]

Looking good Derek, I LOVE the 5000 turbo clusters

:stupid:

Black suede will look awesome...