The Project Pad

Does anyone know or have any experience with the industrial boost control valve (WGFV) offered by EFI Express? I'm on my second one in this year and hope this is a direct replacement that will last a bit longer. It's going on a 3b motor w/stock, albeit chipped, ECU.

Thanks,
Mike

What's wrong win a factory N75 in good condition?

It's important to use the valve that goes with the tune. The industrial valve works well for standalone ecus. Been using that style for years.

i'm with him ^^^^^

i have exclusively used a 3 port valve made for industrial use for evey one of my turbo cars. without fail.

Thanks guys that's what I wanted to know. I have no problem with running a stock valve it's just bloody expensive for what it is and the new silicone turbo inlet hose i bought puts it really close to my exhaust manifold. I Guess I'll just bite the bullet and relocate the valve somewhere cooler.

and here, lemme show ya what i do with mine....

The problem as I see it is the industrial valves open a lot more quickly than pretty much all stock boost control valves, so kind of like installing an injector with a lower latency (actually exactly like it) if you install one with no tuning changes your effective duty cycle goes up. I haven't tested an N75 but the solenoid on certain Buicks takes 2ms to open, MAC take far less.

Boost went up 4psi from spec when I installed a MAC valve in my S40. It was fun until the computer started throwing excessive boost codes, which is funny because it never did that with a manual controller set for the same boost level.

While I wait for the new valve, I've installed a 06A906283E valve I found from a 1.8t. With my ebay chip and a stiffer-than-stock wastegate spring my boost gauge was burying the pin at pressures above 25 psi (the max reading). After reinstalling the stock spring boost is now around 21-22 psi (what it was with the stiff spring before I had the crazy overboost situation I have now), but pressure seems to spike quickly then drop off before rising back to the max again. With any luck the overboost is a result of the mismatched n75, but I'll report back once I know for sure. At idle I'm pulling about 16hg of vacuum when the car's hot. Although this value is higher (around 24hg when the car is decelerating off throttle), I'm not ruling out a boost leak even though I've replaced most of my hoses recently with the exception of some of the smaller idle stabilizer and carbon canister lines around the throttle body.

So I've had a working n75 from an AAN in the car for a few weeks now, and honestly, I notice no difference in performance from the $40 A4 valve I had in there before. In my opinion the "race" valve isn't worth it. Save your money!

Mike