The Project Pad

Last time I drove my CQ I noticed what I’ll call crappy on center steering feel.
I did. Not notice this issue prior to lowering with H&S sprints and Koni adjustable shocks.
Along the with the shocks and springs I replaced all the bushings as well as swapping the stamped control arms for forged. The rear subframe was swapped for a later version with sway bar mounts.
While I was i there I replaced ball joints, tie rod ends and strut top mounts.

Any suggestions on how to investigate this some what scary behavior?

Thanks Jack

Did you get the car re-aligned?

PRY4SNO wrote:Did you get the car re-aligned?

Yes, twice but that requires an explanation.
The first time was a place just a few miles from my house, they advertise that they touch Audi’s but I doubt they ever touched a CQ, it might have been aligned but it was not right.

The second alignment was done buy a guy I trust and has touched a few CQs over the years, so now I’m wondering if this is normal settling and I need to get it aligned again or if there is something else going on. I also have a concern that the things I have changed created a problem that can only be resolved by undoing the change.

Thanks for the advice.
Jack

What about the inner tierod ends? Where they connect to the steering rack.

I did not replace theninner bushings at the rack.
Any suggestions on replacements?

Jack

I don’t think you can buy just the inner rod, it will come with new outer tie rod. Someone out there might have ditched the rubber bushing and used delrin or something similar. Could be something else! How are your tires? Diagnose it. Have someone turn the steering wheel left and right while you look for play in the bushings. And I’m not an expert.

Sparkyjack wrote:I did not replace theninner bushings at the rack.
Any suggestions on replacements?

Jack

Jack, when you lowered the car, did you have the alignment guy put the toe on the inner most spec? When you lower these cars it tends to make that necessary to keep the on center feel correct.

Call me, and I can go into more detail for you.

Dave

Knowing my alignment guy it’s probably dead nuts on.
Seeing how the inner tie rods are the only things I did not replace I’m thinking I’ll replace them and revisit my alignment guys with a request in hand to set things the toe to the inside end of the spec.

Before I go looking for new inner ends does anybody make delrin bushing or will I hate that?

Thanks, jack

Could be subframe alignment too. Also, not sure if this helps but when I swapped to bigger rims and tires I had to back off some toe from front, was way too loose/scary at high speed.

My car feels the same after I put H&R and Koni's on. It a bit skidish on center, I don't remember this feeling on the stock suspension.

Dave does going to the limits of the alignment specs really make that much difference, I don't want to have it aligned again for nothing.

It sure helped me considerably. I would bump steer and be all over the road. I had the alignment redone with it toe'd in to the inner limit, and it tracks much better, and I don't feel like I'm trying to jump lanes on the highway every time I hit a small bump.

Also, I can't take credit for the idea, I believe it was Dana that told me about it.

Sparkyjack wrote:I did not replace theninner bushings at the rack.
Any suggestions on replacements?

Jack

Yeah, I did that. My inners were totally done. Nobody sells the inners.
You need to find some PU bushings that are close and custom fit them.

EDIT: Scroll down a bit. http://theprojectpad.com/viewtopic.php? ... &start=100

Jack, I have a pair of OEM inner bushings if you want to try to replace just the bushings.

DE80q wrote:It sure helped me considerably. I would bump steer and be all over the road. I had the alignment redone with it toe'd in to the inner limit, and it tracks much better, and I don't feel like I'm trying to jump lanes on the highway every time I hit a small bump.

Is this front or rear toe or both?

This A4 I got has made me realize how badly my 80 drives "road feel"-wise. The A4 feels 100 times more "planted".

My mk4 with H&r springs and konis feels like a ferrari compared to my b3, which has the same spring and shock setup. When I drive my 90 with snow tires after being in the mk4, it feels crazy.

I do think my control arm bushings are a bit loose, which really makes them squirely. With fresh bushings and stiff tires, they are decent, but they are not amazing handling cars in my experience.

I am probably faster in the twisties in my 120hp mk4 than I would be in a 500hp b3 with good suspension.

Getting the inner bushings replaced made a big difference. However, I should add that the (solid) strut top mounts also were a major improvement.

I have had my B4 taken to alignment more times I can count. It still pulls to the left a little. Can't figure it out.

I have replaced the strut top mounts (AK Motorsport), inner tie rod bushings, lower ball joints, control arm bushings with PU (AK Motorsport), sub frame bushings are stock rubber about 3 years old.
Only thing it could be that I can think of are the tie rods. They feel tight, but what do I know.

Next on my list are front and rear ARB bushings. From AK of course. Tires are two years old, but only 205s on Avus 16*7.5s.

Like Dana my dd is a mk4, both cars have spring/shock upgrades, but for a car that weighs about the same my CQ is WAY less nimble. My mk4 eats up the twisties too, BUT the CQ it looks so good...

When the steering rack was going on my Cq it started to get numb off centre. Went from vague, to about (EDIT) 3" of slop off centre by the time I was able to source a replacement and get it fixed; I've driven tractors with more direct feel. The steering tightened right up after rack replacement and fresh fluid.

CVJ AXELS can help with that steering rack if it’s bad. Good quality. Ship it in and we will reman your OE rack. Over 31 years of experience. Life time limited warrenty. Don’t void the warranty! Must be doing something right! Good peep’s, doing the best the can. Delmar, he’s the power steering rack guy, he’s been doing it a long time. Ask for him or talk to the old crotchety gal that knows her shit.
Yeah that’s right, I said crotchety! One of our customers is 3R Racing. Oh....I’ve said too much.
Give’m a try.

The issue turned out to be stupid simple.
The nuts on bracket that connects the tie rods together at the rack where loose.
Not sure how that happened as they where new nylock nuts last year.

Thighten the nuts and an alingment and all is well.

Jack

Sparkyjack wrote:The issue turned out to be stupid simple.
The nuts on bracket that connects the tie rods together at the rack where loose.
Not sure how that happened as they where new nylock nuts last year.

Thighten the nuts and an alingment and all is well.

Jack

I had the same on one of them.

Sparkyjack wrote:The issue turned out to be stupid simple.
The nuts on bracket that connects the tie rods together at the rack where loose.
Not sure how that happened as they where new nylock nuts last year.

Thighten the nuts and an alingment and all is well.

Jack

I've seen these fasteners loosen up on their own before.

x3

Might be worth installing nuts with safety wire to prevent future issues.

Sparkyjack wrote:The issue turned out to be stupid simple.
The nuts on bracket that connects the tie rods together at the rack where loose.
Not sure how that happened as they where new nylock nuts last year.

Thighten the nuts and an alingment and all is well.

Jack

I believe that the rack piston is threaded and the nuts are supposed to act as an additional fastener. Make sure that you have the correct bolts installed.