Ed's 1991 CQ: Progress!

[PRA4WX]

I've been working too much! I'm sure it will run this weekend but probably not until Sunday (I work today and tomorrow) and I still need a mid pipe to really drive it.

Un needed. Get it on the road! 8)

[loxxrider]

Can't wait to see this thing rippin'

[Mcstiff]

:woohoo:

Attachment ( 30656 ) : ImageUploadedByTapatalk1336338498.410125.jpg

[Mcstiff]

After messing around with COM settings, schematic conflicts, and other fun (THANKS for the help Marc) I pressurized the fuel system tonight aaaaaand the return line from the rail to the FPR is dripping like hell :fiddlesticks: :bang:

So I'm trying to track one down locally but very tempted to build new lines to avoid a burnt CQ!

[Dave]

7a fpr? I got one

[mr_aj_johnson]

Congrats!
We don't need any more of these cars lit on fire.

[my2000apb]

just build new lines already

[PRA4WX]

Ask and you shall receive. Pretty sure i've got the line awaiting your CQ!

[Mcstiff]

Ak and you shall receive. Pretty sure i've got the line awaiting your CQ!

:eexcellent:

[Mcstiff]

just build new lines already

Unfortunately, that will require ordering more parts and more time.

[my2000apb]

yeah more parts and less risk, 22 years old is getting there for sre, ya even ss coated rubber

[Mcstiff]

Yeah, it's really just SS sheathed not bonded like Aeroquip et al. One option is to strip the lines and run clamps with new hose.

[my2000apb]

all new

[Mcstiff]

This is what I'm talking about

http://12v.org/urs/vap_fuel_line_replacement.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[audifreakjim]

Good old Mance. If you don't have to worry about heat, I like to use the socketless hose on stuff like this because it clamps easier than stainless braided.

[Mcstiff]

Its under the manifold, and short so heat should not be crazy.

[my2000apb]

Good old Mance. If you don't have to worry about heat, I like to use the socketless hose on stuff like this because it clamps easier than stainless braided.

earls still makes the pro-lite 350 with the black cloth outer braid which goes together very easy but isnt stainless, but they also now make prolite ultra which has the black cloth outer but a bonder inner ss layer and still goes together pretty damn easy, so its the best of both worlds

[Mcstiff]

Looks like a good option

[Mcstiff]

Really close. I've been busy as ever all month but I finally got my engine speed sensor sorted out (the pins ended up in the wrong place along the way); but I am still not getting crank or cam position signals. I have a feeling that my crank pin is not far enough into the window, not sure about the cam hall.

To position the pin & cam hall at their sensors I'm ~180º off of TDC, is this correct?

I've got Monday and Tues off so it will fire

[bdcoombs]

awesomee.. watch the VE tune by stats vems tutorial video.. makes mapping VE table a breeze

[Hank]

Just the 7a flywheel?

[Mcstiff]

Just the 7a flywheel?

That may be the issue; I rather redo a wire though. I've got ~3.4mm gap from the sensor but the pin only intersects 3/4 of the width of the hole, not sure if that's an issue.

[Hank]

not *may* ....... IS the problem.

You need to strengthen the signal!! I don't think the 7a pin is wide enough to give the ecu enough of a signal.

[Mcstiff]

Marc, seems to have either more confidence in the 7a flywheel or less in my wiring ;D Just got home from work, going to confirm everything is hooked up correctly.

[Mcstiff]

So when I position the flywheel pin at the sensor I seem to be before TDC. I thought the pin was telling the sensor that the crank is at TDC? The "line embossed on the top surface of the Hall rotor immediately under the hot end of the dist rotor, and a mating line notched into the top edge of the distributor housing opposite the Hall connector and just above the Hall sensor unit" match up so that means the window is over the hall pickup right? The car drove into the garage and I have not touched the timing.

In the meantime I am going to f(x) check the wiring (edit:wiring checks out).


Fiddlestickin paint pen!

Edit:

Found this:

You definitely don't need that tool to set timing marks. You should always use the flywheel mark not the crank pulley mark as it moves over do to the rubber in the harmonic balancer. The FW only bolts up one way so now worries there. Set the Cam pulley to TDC check for the line or 0 on the FW to be lined up on the edge of the window in the bellhousing. Once you have cam and crank set then loosen the 13mm nut o n the clamp for the dizzy and rotate the body till the | on the shutter wheel and the | in the body line up done.
http://www.quattro123.com/TB440A.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://www.quattro123.com/TB439TimingMarkViewA.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://www.quattro123.com/Audi200Distri ... st184A.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; ... st184A.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

But my pin is not at the sensor until before TDC so should I sync the Hall with the PIN?