Justin, did you copy the can that I made? Just curious, I ran exactly the same thing, only with the inlet/outlet ports reversed.
Sam
I took the BLUE Pill. Engine bay painted
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quattro v1.0
So, after chomping at the bit late last week into the weekend I just shut up and disappear while everyone is just dying to know how the initial startup went.
Saturday afternoon I did a good final check of all the systems and gadgets and hoo ha’s. It was finally time to turn the key. System primed, all sensors: check. Turn the key is the car pretty much lights right off. I had to nurse it a bit as it was all coming to life but nonetheless it was running. Low RPM running was really bad and it was loading up like a pig but if I got it up into the 3K range it started sounding a bit better.
One thing I hadn’t done is set the fuel pressure so I decided this would be a good time as it was pretty low – barely 30 lb. Upon making that adjustment I noticed there was a small puddle of fuel forming atop the non-Aeromotive FPR. I tightened things down again and hoped for the best. I started it again and it was grossly rich, not really wanting to run… Another realization was since the diaphragm was leaking, its was also spewing extra fuel into the intake via the vacuum port - Im going to hope this is why it was so rich.
I let things cool down and dried the still-leaking FPR. I pulled the cap off the FPR and it looks like the unit may have been put together with a small crease in the diaphragm. I flattened it out as best I could and put it back together, gave the car another try and it was profusely leaking now. I was done for the weekend, never really getting any effective run time on the car.
On a side note, the tach amplifier connected directly to the back of the R/Y/B wire in the back of the cluster did not make the tach function… I have one more ‘guess’ before I accept defeat on that project and that would be to take the tach directly to gound at the back of the cluster as well. If that don’t make the tach work, Im probably going to really be bothering someone at 034 for some suggestions since many UrQ owners have the same issue trying to run the stock tach on a IIc without a distributor / coil combination.
Monday morning I made the call to 034 and placed what will be the last order that I can probably process in time to make the event later this week. Overnight shipping on the new FPR and catch can.
Today I sit here at work placing full faith in the 034 / UPS systems as I need to make the car run well enough tonight to be able to drive it 5 miles to the muffler shop first thing in the morning to tie in the exhaust.
Here it is two days before a 600 mile trip and the car has not really been run. On a lighter note, whether it makes it to UrQ25 or not – its going to look good. I got the Euro lights all relayed and installed, as well as the body man promising the return of my Sport hood and at least the front rally bumper – maybe the rear as well.
I really need some assurance that everything is going to just be OK lol Im a bit frazzled at this point and I want nothing more than for this car to make it to Colorado this weekend.
More to follow once my shipment gets here…
Saturday afternoon I did a good final check of all the systems and gadgets and hoo ha’s. It was finally time to turn the key. System primed, all sensors: check. Turn the key is the car pretty much lights right off. I had to nurse it a bit as it was all coming to life but nonetheless it was running. Low RPM running was really bad and it was loading up like a pig but if I got it up into the 3K range it started sounding a bit better.
One thing I hadn’t done is set the fuel pressure so I decided this would be a good time as it was pretty low – barely 30 lb. Upon making that adjustment I noticed there was a small puddle of fuel forming atop the non-Aeromotive FPR. I tightened things down again and hoped for the best. I started it again and it was grossly rich, not really wanting to run… Another realization was since the diaphragm was leaking, its was also spewing extra fuel into the intake via the vacuum port - Im going to hope this is why it was so rich.
I let things cool down and dried the still-leaking FPR. I pulled the cap off the FPR and it looks like the unit may have been put together with a small crease in the diaphragm. I flattened it out as best I could and put it back together, gave the car another try and it was profusely leaking now. I was done for the weekend, never really getting any effective run time on the car.
On a side note, the tach amplifier connected directly to the back of the R/Y/B wire in the back of the cluster did not make the tach function… I have one more ‘guess’ before I accept defeat on that project and that would be to take the tach directly to gound at the back of the cluster as well. If that don’t make the tach work, Im probably going to really be bothering someone at 034 for some suggestions since many UrQ owners have the same issue trying to run the stock tach on a IIc without a distributor / coil combination.
Monday morning I made the call to 034 and placed what will be the last order that I can probably process in time to make the event later this week. Overnight shipping on the new FPR and catch can.
Today I sit here at work placing full faith in the 034 / UPS systems as I need to make the car run well enough tonight to be able to drive it 5 miles to the muffler shop first thing in the morning to tie in the exhaust.
Here it is two days before a 600 mile trip and the car has not really been run. On a lighter note, whether it makes it to UrQ25 or not – its going to look good. I got the Euro lights all relayed and installed, as well as the body man promising the return of my Sport hood and at least the front rally bumper – maybe the rear as well.
I really need some assurance that everything is going to just be OK lol Im a bit frazzled at this point and I want nothing more than for this car to make it to Colorado this weekend.
More to follow once my shipment gets here…
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84urq20v
Or like me with Hank's car Sean. It has been up and down x 10 and finally got it sorted well enough that my brother was going to run it up to Hank in Provo and I was just going to meet them in Colorado. David came back about midnight, 45 minutes after he left with Hank's Urq boiling over, the alternator belt thrown, and various other problems and said "I'm done....I tried". Hank says he really needs to stay home anyway and take a test and study, so I guess that Urq isn't going unless I do some magic in the next day or so.
Sean, you have given me hope. I figure if you can come up with enough magic to get there, I ought to at least try. So far I have found a leaking heater hose and a overflow cap that wasn't holding pressure. It's looking up.
Sean, you have given me hope. I figure if you can come up with enough magic to get there, I ought to at least try. So far I have found a leaking heater hose and a overflow cap that wasn't holding pressure. It's looking up.
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quattro v1.0
OK The FPR arrived today, I wasted no time getting it swapped in. Absolute direct fit compared to the one I replaced, didn't have to change anything.
I primed the system, checked for leaks, and set the pressure to 45 lb.
The blue meanie sprung to life on the 2nd rev.
I had spewed a buttload of oil out the exhaust which was quite disturbing, still not sure what caused that.
Not sure if excessive crankcase pressure would do that or not, any ideas? It wasn't leaking from any of the fittings but from the exhaust - and god help me not the brand new turbo itself.
Hank happened to call me as I was running it so that makes him the first to hear it.
Im going to go start buttoning up the interior with NO F'N TACH... I went to get a small aftermarket tach just so I could have something in there but I wasn't convinced they would work with a 5 cyl...
The mission tonight is to get it back on the ground with the exhaust j-rigged to the point I can get it to the muffler shop in the morning.
Painter called - of course he needs til tomorrow with the parts since it was humid today... W/E now i have to do double work to make it driveable and then put the fresh parts on tomorrow evening.
Any bets on how late Im up tonight?
And if I make it, there will be THREE (3) yes three UrQ's making the trek on Thursday :bashtard:
I primed the system, checked for leaks, and set the pressure to 45 lb.
The blue meanie sprung to life on the 2nd rev.
I had spewed a buttload of oil out the exhaust which was quite disturbing, still not sure what caused that.
Not sure if excessive crankcase pressure would do that or not, any ideas? It wasn't leaking from any of the fittings but from the exhaust - and god help me not the brand new turbo itself.
Hank happened to call me as I was running it so that makes him the first to hear it.
Im going to go start buttoning up the interior with NO F'N TACH... I went to get a small aftermarket tach just so I could have something in there but I wasn't convinced they would work with a 5 cyl...
The mission tonight is to get it back on the ground with the exhaust j-rigged to the point I can get it to the muffler shop in the morning.
Painter called - of course he needs til tomorrow with the parts since it was humid today... W/E now i have to do double work to make it driveable and then put the fresh parts on tomorrow evening.
Any bets on how late Im up tonight?
And if I make it, there will be THREE (3) yes three UrQ's making the trek on Thursday :bashtard:
Woooooohoooo!!!!! Hey Sean, my prize for hearing the car start on the first time is a set of Euro blinkers for the front!!!!!!!!! Commmmmmmon!!!!!!! Really though, the car sounds great, and I am sure the crank being plugged is your problem. That can cause a lot of blowby. Get that crank breather on, and i bet it works better.
I didnt know that you were having all that stuff painted as well!!! the car is going to look great! I am excited!
Oh, I pulled up this link today, it might help you in your search for an aftermarket tach to get you going..
http://www.motorgeek.com/phpBB2/viewtop ... rally+dash
There is some good info on that..
I didnt know that you were having all that stuff painted as well!!! the car is going to look great! I am excited!
Oh, I pulled up this link today, it might help you in your search for an aftermarket tach to get you going..
http://www.motorgeek.com/phpBB2/viewtop ... rally+dash
There is some good info on that..
Hey Sean, do you have a restrictor in your turbo bearing? If not with the I5's oil pressure a lot can build up and not be able to gravity drain, in which case you will blow a bunch of oil out the exhaust. How big is your oil return to the crank case? Is it all down hill? If you get a low spot you will create a natural trap that will also create problems for you...............but great work. How does it sound? Is it running well enough to get to the muffler shop? I would have liked to have started it last night while I was there, but oh no you just have to wait until I am at work.
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quattro v1.0
Got it on the ground, took it around the block at 3:30 AM - too loud to be out just asking for trouble...
I gave it one stab to about 5 psi and the dump valve released - with fury
Pulled it in the garage and noticed it sneezed a bunch of oil out the DV...
Im not sure whether to take it for an exhaust or not, it seems to be running fine and idling and not stumbling, however I can't tell if Im still clearing out oil from earlier or is it is still leaking. The crankcase is fully open to atmosphere.
I have the right restrictor in there and my drainback line is a AN10 with a perfect gradual curve back to the MC block
I dunno, if this turbo is bad Im done playing, this aint fun no more...
I gave it one stab to about 5 psi and the dump valve released - with fury
Pulled it in the garage and noticed it sneezed a bunch of oil out the DV...
Im not sure whether to take it for an exhaust or not, it seems to be running fine and idling and not stumbling, however I can't tell if Im still clearing out oil from earlier or is it is still leaking. The crankcase is fully open to atmosphere.
I have the right restrictor in there and my drainback line is a AN10 with a perfect gradual curve back to the MC block
I dunno, if this turbo is bad Im done playing, this aint fun no more...
Dump valve meaning the Wastegate or the Blowoff valve? If it is coming out the wastegate, I would say that you just need to get a tune on it. If it is any sorts of rich, you will have oil like, unused fuel that comes out the downpipe. When my car is at idle with the 96lb injectors, it is at about 12.0 to one untill it warms up, and it will puke up gassy watery crap out the tail, and even after it has warmed up, it still only will idle at about 13.5, and that is rich enough to emit gas out the tail pipes.
I really really really doubt the turbo is bad. the ball bearing turbos are not the same build quality as the old thrust bearing turbos. I would put that at the VERY back of you head at this point. I would get the exhaust put on today, and try and tune it the best you can. Get a good idle with the idle scaler, and then go change the main scaler at WOT and say 15psi until you get a nice 12.0 on the WB. Then take it on the free way, and go 75, and look where the crosshairs are at that RPM, and adjust the area around that box to come up with a 14.5 AFR. Then motor on up to colorado, and other experienced IIc users can give you advise, or atleast you can have a passenger in there helping get the car to have a decent map. I forget what kind of timing the 20vt liked at the torque curve, but I imagine it is substantially less than the 12 the 20vt likes on pump gas. On you monitor screen shot, you can see the actual timing BTDC and at 3.5k to 4.5k, I wouldnt want that number much higher than say 8. To be safe I would put it even lower than that till you talk to somebody that knows something!
You are looking good man! Dont worry about it. did it feel smooth tooling around the neighborhood?
I really really really doubt the turbo is bad. the ball bearing turbos are not the same build quality as the old thrust bearing turbos. I would put that at the VERY back of you head at this point. I would get the exhaust put on today, and try and tune it the best you can. Get a good idle with the idle scaler, and then go change the main scaler at WOT and say 15psi until you get a nice 12.0 on the WB. Then take it on the free way, and go 75, and look where the crosshairs are at that RPM, and adjust the area around that box to come up with a 14.5 AFR. Then motor on up to colorado, and other experienced IIc users can give you advise, or atleast you can have a passenger in there helping get the car to have a decent map. I forget what kind of timing the 20vt liked at the torque curve, but I imagine it is substantially less than the 12 the 20vt likes on pump gas. On you monitor screen shot, you can see the actual timing BTDC and at 3.5k to 4.5k, I wouldnt want that number much higher than say 8. To be safe I would put it even lower than that till you talk to somebody that knows something!
You are looking good man! Dont worry about it. did it feel smooth tooling around the neighborhood?
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Jretal
Great work, Sean! I agree w/ hank that the black stuff you're spitting out might be due to a rich tune. My 4000 did the same thing until I got it tuned well... and the door from my garage into the house is living proof! It's stained w/ that nasty mess.
It was a hodge podge of stuff I read from Jim Greene, you, and what I saw w/ my Jazz catch can I tried to use but found it was too tall. It's made up of 3" PVC cap, threaded nipple and threaded cap... no piping in it what so ever.
SeStone wrote:Justin, did you copy the can that I made? Just curious, I ran exactly the same thing, only with the inlet/outlet ports reversed.
Sam
It was a hodge podge of stuff I read from Jim Greene, you, and what I saw w/ my Jazz catch can I tried to use but found it was too tall. It's made up of 3" PVC cap, threaded nipple and threaded cap... no piping in it what so ever.
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quattro v1.0
Well, the exhaust got buttoned up Wednesday. The muffler guy said THIS car ain't going to Colorado THIS weekend after seeing the oil that spewed out the exhaust for some ungodly reason.
I asked him to work on the exhaust and I would worry about the rest.
The car finally came together and we got a little highway time on it today, IT'S MAKING THE TRIP to UrQ25. It isn't tuned, it isn't near it's potential, but its good enough to get me there *crosses fingers* The oil seemed to blow itself out once I kicked a few pounds of boost to it and got the exh temps up. No smoking.
The Sport hood was dropped off Wed night along with the front rally bumper, I wasted no time getting to work on those either.
Pretty pleased with the color match once I pulled it outside as well.
The car is probably at stage II right now? We had some time constraints that kept us from going forward with the custom intake so I made the MC2 work for now.
And here is another shot since I just like the angle...
I guess its time to finally pack for the trek to UrQ25. Wish us well!
I asked him to work on the exhaust and I would worry about the rest.
The car finally came together and we got a little highway time on it today, IT'S MAKING THE TRIP to UrQ25. It isn't tuned, it isn't near it's potential, but its good enough to get me there *crosses fingers* The oil seemed to blow itself out once I kicked a few pounds of boost to it and got the exh temps up. No smoking.
The Sport hood was dropped off Wed night along with the front rally bumper, I wasted no time getting to work on those either.
Pretty pleased with the color match once I pulled it outside as well.
The car is probably at stage II right now? We had some time constraints that kept us from going forward with the custom intake so I made the MC2 work for now.
And here is another shot since I just like the angle...
I guess its time to finally pack for the trek to UrQ25. Wish us well!
The car finally came together and we got a little highway time on it today, IT'S MAKING THE TRIP to UrQ25. It isn't tuned, it isn't near it's potential, but its good enough to get me there
It actually runs pretty good considering just a very basic map with all 1's, but the scaler must be pretty close. Nice car and it starts right up unlike the old CIS :woowoo:
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Josh
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quattro v1.0
Sean, the car looks fantastic! Great job!
You really don't want to do that. Since the turbo is still being fed exhaust energy, it will still be spinning up, and without it being connected to the intake, there is no resistance, so it will over-spin very easily. A popped boost hose is what caused me to over-spin my GT30R during a race, and thus damage the bearings.
Josh wrote:worse case scenario if boost was the issuse couldn't u leave the cone filter on the turbo and remove one of the intercooler piping and add a second cone filter to the setup making it run NA for the ride up and down. "worse case scenario" if boost really bothered the engine.
You really don't want to do that. Since the turbo is still being fed exhaust energy, it will still be spinning up, and without it being connected to the intake, there is no resistance, so it will over-spin very easily. A popped boost hose is what caused me to over-spin my GT30R during a race, and thus damage the bearings.
Mark Siggelkow
'90 CQ-R - NASA GTS-4
'12 TT-RS (Wife's DD)
'00 A4 1.8TQ (My DD)
'62 356B (vintage racer)
'07 Toyota Tundra CrewMax (for towing/hauling)
'90 CQ-R - NASA GTS-4
'12 TT-RS (Wife's DD)
'00 A4 1.8TQ (My DD)
'62 356B (vintage racer)
'07 Toyota Tundra CrewMax (for towing/hauling)