B4Q 80-AEB TD04HL-15T; Loads of rewiring!

[PRY4SNO]

For now I'd trim the hose end that fits on the IC, until it doesn't kink. Enjoy the car first, before you get into modding it much more!

[ChrisAudi80]

For now I'd trim the hose end that fits on the IC, until it doesn't kink. Enjoy the car first, before you get into modding it much more!

Yeah, that is the plan. I will drive it for a month or so before modding further. Trimming the intake hose sounds like a good idea. I was not so happy about that, but whatever.
Will go to the exhaust shop today.

[ChrisAudi80]

Yesterday, I drove it for the first time! Man, this thing wants to GO! Because it has Japanese parts, the final drive is 4.111.
Went and got an alignment first, which was sorely needed. It still pulls a little to the left, but not badly. I cannot use the Weitec springs in the front, so had the stock front springs swapped in. So now the shocks and spring are missmatched. Stiff shocks and stock spring.

Then on to the exhaust shop. It took 5hrs to have the 2.5" SS system made. Only has an end muffler, but it does look cool. Not too noisy or drony, but a good presence.

Plans for the fuel tank are ongoing.

There is a weird grinding/clattering noise when I do a U turn or accelerate at a certain throttle level. I think it is from the driveshaft area. Will go to have this checked out today.
Pics later.

[PRY4SNO]

I had Koni Yellows on stock springs when I bought my black Cq, drove it like that for years with no issues.

Time for a photoshoot and some vids!

Oh, congrats on the first drive

[ChrisAudi80]

I had Koni Yellows on stock springs when I bought my black Cq, drove it like that for years with no issues.

Time for a photoshoot and some vids!

Oh, congrats on the first drive

Thanks. The car looks shithouse now.

The front springs and shocks are quite mismatched. However, I think there is something else going on. There is a height difference of about a finger between left and right. Also, even though the control arm bushings look OK, I think I should have them replaced. I suspect the ball joints, too.

Another issue is the driveshaft support bearing. The rubber is too loose. If accelerating in 1st and 2nd, the shaft hits the shield. I need to clean up the brakes too. They are grungy. Will need the fuel tank made and installed before any serious action.

[ChrisAudi80]

On today's to do list:

Driveshaft support bearing
front control arm bushes and ball joints
Hubrings

BTW, this is the only 80Q AEB in the country, and the 2nd 80Q. The 1st one is 2.7TT

[ChrisAudi80]

Driveshaft support bearing noise fixed. It was hitting the shield.
Hubrings made and installed. Shaking should be gone.

Control arm bushes and balljoints were OK.

Still need to get the fuel tank done.

[ChrisAudi80]

Had an interesting experience on Sunday. I was doing some brake disc clean up runs. Pulled on the highway, rowing through the gears.
Right after I put it in 5ht, there was a very nasty noise from the right front wheel. Could not brake as that made it worse.

After rolling to a stop I looked, but could not see any thing. I thought a pad or something had let go. Turns out it was something. The bolts for the caliper were loose and one had worked itself out. That was easily fixed.

Went to start the fuel tank work today. My buddy and I butchered my old FWD tank for the fill nozzle, the access hatch with the thread and the basket inside was cut out/off.

The exhaust shop will make a round SS tank which will sit in the spare wheel well. Should be about 59 liters...

EDIT: Oopsie, got my Volume formula mixed up. Tank will be round with a diameter of 63cms and 30cm tall. So, not 59, but 93 liters!
That's about 25gals American... Is that too much?

[ChrisAudi80]

SS fuel tank is in! What a job...
Will post up some pics later.

[pilihp2]

That is a LARGE fuel tank. I thought my 18.5 gallons for my 5000 was big.

[ChrisAudi80]

That is a LARGE fuel tank. I thought my 18.5 gallons for my 5000 was big.

Oh, its LARGE alright.

[ChrisAudi80]

New steering wheel is in. Took the first long test drive yesterday to Ikea. Had all the brake discs cleaned up and new pads on the front calipers.
The brakes are from the B5. Still need to be bled again. I searched some and it looks like it might be a PITA.

K03 is leaking oil, clutch is slipping a little, but it runs real nice on the highway. Wife approves of ride. Not too loud. Love the 4.111 gears.
Next is new clutch.

Stage 2 will be VEMS install, another turbo and IC. Thinking to go with a TD04 15T and a Chinese EM. Those are plentiful here. Getting a K04-15 is just not worth it.

Gratuitous pics as she now sits.

[lorge1989]

I love seeing more 1.8T swap stuff. Are you still going to try to get the DBW throttle to work with the VEMS?


ps you should buy this:

viewtopic.php?f=7&t=1275

[ChrisAudi80]

I love seeing more 1.8T swap stuff. Are you still going to try to get the DBW throttle to work with the VEMS?


ps you should buy this:

http://www.theprojectpad.com/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=1275

AEB is DBC.

LOL, I don't have money for that setup, man. Besides, this car is more focused on torque. Looking for about 250-280 crank HP with a flat and wide as possible TQ curve.

A TD04HL-15T should provide that. These turbos are widely available and fairly cheap here. About 250-300USD used.

[ChrisAudi80]

Right, before a new clutch can go in, I need:
-Swap in a good alternator. The current one has bad bearings.
-New strut top mounts. The ride height difference between left and right is near on 1".
Once the mounts are in, should be able to use my Weitec springs again.
-Another alignment. Sigh...

[PRY4SNO]

Do you have VAP mount savers of any kind? That might be handy going forward...

[ChrisAudi80]

Do you have VAP mount savers of any kind? That might be handy going forward...

I do not. Seems those things are not available anymore.

I red somewhere that I would need some steel and urethane rings?

[PRY4SNO]

That's the MS2, with rings that don't deform under load and take up the gap.

I have MS1, which are thick shims of a sort.

You could make your own, really, out of large washers and some rubber. I have a friend who's done so and never had an issue. If you like I could get some pics for you.

[ChrisAudi80]

That's the MS2, with rings that don't deform under load and take up the gap.

I have MS1, which are thick shims of a sort.

You could make your own, really, out of large washers and some rubber. I have a friend who's done so and never had an issue. If you like I could get some pics for you.

That should be possible. If I can find some red urethane rings here, that would help.
Let's see what I can find.

[ChrisAudi80]

I put the VEMS stuff up for sale. Should have thought of this before buying, but too much shiny in my brain. And nobody wants it.

So, now have reinstalled the MAP ECU piggyback. Swapped in the 630s and filled up with E85 last weekend and started tuning the fuel table.
The stock AEB ECU has such a wide range of adjust, it started up right away. Pig rich, but still ran.

After just 4 log runs, it runs fairly well. The ZT3 AFR gauge only shows gas AFRs, but those are calculated from lambda.
Tuning for stoich for now. Only getting 6psi boost. Is that stock? It should get at least 7. The K03 must be worn out and I know is leaking oil through the seals.

Next challenge will be hooking up the N75 to the piggyback EBC. I was advised by the MAP ECU manufacturer to start with these settings:
Gain: 3
Target boost : 15psi
Sensitivity: 80%
Duty: 40%

Sound good?

[ChrisAudi80]

When I went to get the swapped engine registered in the car's book, the car was weighed.
1400kg with near full tank. Not bad.

In unrelated news, getting some essential PCV system parts. They are cheap Chinese copy parts, but why pay 70 bucks for some plastic tubing?
PRV valve, PCV check vale, that stupid little S pipe from the block and the T piece for the check valve.

Also, my MAP ECU piggyback has a much improved firmware available. Flex fuel sensor input added among some other nice features.

Still unsure what happens when electrically unplugging the N75 from the stock AEB ECU.
Some say it will put the car in limp, others say it is just like running WG spring pressure.
If it is the 2nd case, I won't have to run a new wire to a separate N75. I can just splice in the EBC wire of my MAP ECU into the stock harness.
If so, sweet. I have a spare N75H valve I can use.
I will finally be able to turn up the boost. An adjustable BPV is next.

[ChrisAudi80]

An update is in order maybe.

Since last post, the Weitec spring were put back on. Had to roll the fenders.

The PCV system has been fixed, proper IC to TB hoses installed, adjustable BPV installed, check valves replaced, MAF element cleaned, stoopid boost oscillation eliminated and N75H valve installed.
Peaking at 11 psi now, which is not earth shattering, but a lot more fun than 6psi.

[ChrisAudi80]

I am a "late to the party" kinda guy.

It would seems that the hassles with unsteady boost and AFRs are due to the crap AEB coils. Luckily, I have a set of 06A coils.
Had to order a set of 4pin connectors with pigtails today as these are not available locally. Of course. Then, when they arrive the fun starts with rewiring the 3 pin stuff to 4 pin. Should be OK.
In the meantime, a repositioning of the vacuum line hose connection on the IM is in order. Right now, I take the signal off the nipple next to runner 4.

And the stock clutch is slippin... Le sigh.

[lorge1989]

From Vortex:

Now here's something interesting that has come out of our research on the LS2 coil conversions.

The popular 3wire to 4 wire Bosch coil conversion with the ICM delete now looks like a really BAD idea.

No one bothered to check the dwell tables when this mod was made years back. If you swap in the later coils ( 4 wire ) with ICM delete...you are now running with an ECU ( ME5 ) that supplies significantly LOWER dwell figures than what the later 4 wire coils were designed for ( with ME7 ECU ). The result is going to be a less powerful spark than with the early AEB coils.

The AEB coils have always looked like a decent design to me. They are BEEFY. Much bigger than even the LS2 coils. The alleged poor reliability of the ICM has been addressed before. Keeping the factory air-boxsystem with it's integral Heat Sink cooledby airflow is a must. CAI systems that eliminate the factory's cooling method for the ICM is a very bad idea. The heat sink thermal compoundshould be renewed every 5 years.

My car went 220,000 km on the original ICM ( other owners at Audizine etc, report similar findings ). The 220,000 km old AEB coils could still fire worn out NGKplugsat an eroded .035" gap and at 18+ lbs of boost. Now that does not seem like a weak coil design or ICM to me.

Mind you, the AEB coils are not cheap...if and when they fail.

I should also note that I live in a fairly cool climate ( Pacific Northwest ). Hotter climates may take more of a toll on the ICM. FWIT.

[ChrisAudi80]

From Vortex:

Now here's something interesting that has come out of our research on the LS2 coil conversions.

The popular 3wire to 4 wire Bosch coil conversion with the ICM delete now looks like a really BAD idea.

No one bothered to check the dwell tables when this mod was made years back. If you swap in the later coils ( 4 wire ) with ICM delete...you are now running with an ECU ( ME5 ) that supplies significantly LOWER dwell figures than what the later 4 wire coils were designed for ( with ME7 ECU ). The result is going to be a less powerful spark than with the early AEB coils.

The AEB coils have always looked like a decent design to me. They are BEEFY. Much bigger than even the LS2 coils. The alleged poor reliability of the ICM has been addressed before. Keeping the factory air-boxsystem with it's integral Heat Sink cooledby airflow is a must. CAI systems that eliminate the factory's cooling method for the ICM is a very bad idea. The heat sink thermal compoundshould be renewed every 5 years.

My car went 220,000 km on the original ICM ( other owners at Audizine etc, report similar findings ). The 220,000 km old AEB coils could still fire worn out NGKplugsat an eroded .035" gap and at 18+ lbs of boost. Now that does not seem like a weak coil design or ICM to me.

Mind you, the AEB coils are not cheap...if and when they fail.

I should also note that I live in a fairly cool climate ( Pacific Northwest ). Hotter climates may take more of a toll on the ICM. FWIT.

Shit. That totally contradicts this:
"Stock 1.8T Coils are junk. Literally. They barely work and misfire constantly, just enough to not trigger an increment on the misfire counter of the ECU, but enough to make you go insane and feel a hesitation or have fluctuating vacuum due to varying completion of combustion events at idle and under load. Just because folks have made 700+whp does not mean they did it without using barely functional coils. It is like boiling a frog in a pot of water, you don't know you are done for until the water is boiling as you have adjusted to the increasing heat over time and problems.

Since the 1.8T came with these crap coils, we think that these cars run fine. Reality is they do not, at all with stock coils, stock tune even. Perceptive people who are aware can pick this up as described above.

This has been the case of EVERY 1.8T I have owned, and I am on my third and fourth personal cars, as well as tinkering with countless other local cars. THEY ALL HAVE LOW GRADE MISFIRING! You can't datalog it, because the misfires are slight enough that the crank speed sensor monitoring code is not picking up on the very slight slowdown/hesitation. (If I remember right that is how the misfire counter/detection works. It increments a counter for a cylinder when the crank speed sensor detects an oddity[simple explanation]). You can feel it as a hesitation, and see your vacuum readings fluctuate ever so slightly, maybe .5" hg to 1" hg with a little bit of uneven shake at idle."
From:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.p ... -new-stuff.

I gapped down to 0.7mm the FR7KPP33 that I found in the block. The AFRs seem smoother now. AEB is ME3.8.2, right?