1PissedOff90

[PRA4WX]

Nice score in the 07K. Car's looking good!

[audifreakjim]

So this happened:



It's a 2005 that had "something" happen which required it to be replaced. I'm hoping that it was a chain tensioner issue with some mildly bent valves and a nice forged crank. I'm also hoping to be at a $0 investment once I sell off the VW parts that I wont be using! Don't expect Jim Green pace here, I still have a bunch of work to finish on my CQ before I can even think about taking the 90 down!

It's funny, I am excited about the power the 07k will make but I can't hardly wait to drive the car with a lighter front end.

[mr_aj_johnson]

It's funny, I am excited about the power the 07k will make but I can't hardly wait to drive the car with a lighter front end.

I'd love to see some before and after weight distributions. DId you get the comet on scales?
Can you try to get the 90 on a set of scales for a before/after? also I'm curious if you got any valving/spring rate info on those ohlins dampers

[Mcstiff]

It's funny, I am excited about the power the 07k will make but I can't hardly wait to drive the car with a lighter front end.

I have not been driving them back to back but there is a je ne sais quoi when driving the 90 that the CQ does not have. I attribute most of it to the added lightness.

I'd love to see some before and after weight distributions. DId you get the comet on scales?
Can you try to get the 90 on a set of scales for a before/after? also I'm curious if you got any valving/spring rate info on those ohlins dampers

I will get it on a scale before I start swapping things. I have zero additional info on the Ohlins but I'll have to get/find some if/when I do anything to the front. I'll be sure to post both.

[mr_aj_johnson]

Found this:

Ohlins update or You "can" get real coilovers into the B4Q rear suspension!!
User account number (aid): 711
Posted by 1PissedOff90 on 2005-05-08 11:46:20


Ever start one of those days where ya just know nothing is going to go right or as planned? Well that was me yesterday. This install fought me tooth and nail the entire way. In retrospect there was nothing really hard or difficult but there was a TON of unanticipated, unplanned and "never saw it coming" events to contend with. My little 2 hour project turned into a 14 hour day.

For now just know Ohlins are in and working. But the springs I ordered while they feel about the right weight (400lbs per corner) are about 2" too short. Rear of my car is SLAMMED! However with all the adjustability I have right now I'm still able to prevent the tires from rubbing in the left fender well at all and only a slight tire-to-fender-liner rub on moderate-to-severe dips/bumps or hard left hand turns under power on the right side. But admittedly I do run .15 less negative camber in my right rear tire than my left because my local road course has so many more right turns. For that reason alone my right rear tire is less tilted inward at the top than my left tire and thus the slight rub issue on that side during shock/spring comopression. But the tire is only rubbing the plastic fender liner and not contacting any metal. And of course 8.5" wide wheels with 245/40/17 tires arent helping this interference issue but even that will work itself out when I get the right spring heights mounted.

Seems I have to order either a set of helper springs, tender springs or just 2" longer coil springs tomorrow. And if I want this finished by Tuesday I would do well to buy them a plane ticket as well (FedEx Overnight Express).

Remote reservoirs are not mounted yet but are in the trunk. Trunk is a disaster area as wall and floor carpets are in a wad and bunched up/packed out of my way.

Did a "wild guess" mid-range adjustment on rebound setting and am pretty happy with it. But due to being so low I am probably running stiffer compression dampening than I will when the car is raised another 1/8"-1/4." While I struggle with feeling much difference in a one-click increase in dampening I can definately feel 2 clicks. And these units have 22 pre-set clicks both above and below their mid settings so there's more adjustment than I probably need and/or will likely ever use. But as with most things its probably better to have it and never need it than need it once and not have it.

Rear shock upper housings were the biggest obstacle and had to be radically modified via almost every cutting/grinding tool at my disposal, ie: sawzall, electric grinder, die grinder, pneumatic cut-off tool and a Dremel. Stock spring seats and most of the housing is gone now. They are a shell of their original design weighing less than half of what they do in stock form. I'll get pics up later today of the new modified pieces before painting them so you can see how extensively they are modified.

I'll post more pics later today as I get back into the project.

[mr_aj_johnson]

try that again...


Quote:
Ohlins update or You "can" get real coilovers into the B4Q rear suspension!!
User account number (aid): 711
Posted by 1PissedOff90 on 2005-05-08 11:46:20


Ever start one of those days where ya just know nothing is going to go right or as planned? Well that was me yesterday. This install fought me tooth and nail the entire way. In retrospect there was nothing really hard or difficult but there was a TON of unanticipated, unplanned and "never saw it coming" events to contend with. My little 2 hour project turned into a 14 hour day.

For now just know Ohlins are in and working. But the springs I ordered while they feel about the right weight (400lbs per corner) are about 2" too short. Rear of my car is SLAMMED! However with all the adjustability I have right now I'm still able to prevent the tires from rubbing in the left fender well at all and only a slight tire-to-fender-liner rub on moderate-to-severe dips/bumps or hard left hand turns under power on the right side. But admittedly I do run .15 less negative camber in my right rear tire than my left because my local road course has so many more right turns. For that reason alone my right rear tire is less tilted inward at the top than my left tire and thus the slight rub issue on that side during shock/spring comopression. But the tire is only rubbing the plastic fender liner and not contacting any metal. And of course 8.5" wide wheels with 245/40/17 tires arent helping this interference issue but even that will work itself out when I get the right spring heights mounted.

Seems I have to order either a set of helper springs, tender springs or just 2" longer coil springs tomorrow. And if I want this finished by Tuesday I would do well to buy them a plane ticket as well (FedEx Overnight Express).

Remote reservoirs are not mounted yet but are in the trunk. Trunk is a disaster area as wall and floor carpets are in a wad and bunched up/packed out of my way.

Did a "wild guess" mid-range adjustment on rebound setting and am pretty happy with it. But due to being so low I am probably running stiffer compression dampening than I will when the car is raised another 1/8"-1/4." While I struggle with feeling much difference in a one-click increase in dampening I can definately feel 2 clicks. And these units have 22 pre-set clicks both above and below their mid settings so there's more adjustment than I probably need and/or will likely ever use. But as with most things its probably better to have it and never need it than need it once and not have it.

Rear shock upper housings were the biggest obstacle and had to be radically modified via almost every cutting/grinding tool at my disposal, ie: sawzall, electric grinder, die grinder, pneumatic cut-off tool and a Dremel. Stock spring seats and most of the housing is gone now. They are a shell of their original design weighing less than half of what they do in stock form. I'll get pics up later today of the new modified pieces before painting them so you can see how extensively they are modified.

I'll post more pics later today as I get back into the project.


Quote:
Posted by 1PissedOff90 on 2005-05-08 13:30:53

Ohlins rear install pics

Here's the pic of what had to be cut/modified on the stock rear strut mount housing. Red line is area that had to be cut away. On a stock car this housing makes the rear mounts completely enclosed within the upper 7"-8" of the stock strut housing. A small diameter 40mm Bilstein strut has no problem fitting inside but a 60mm Ohlins with an 82mm height adjusting collar is nowhere close to fitting inside. With this setup I now have complete range of adjustment of the Ohlins threaded body. I could easily run up to 14" tall springs if I were of the pro ralley/hillclimb mindset.

The area marked in yellow is where the old "fixed" position stock upper spring perch sat but it too had to be surgically removed along with the rest of the housing.

You can also see in this pic why the 8" long 400lb springs are too short. I'm completely adjusted downward as low as I can go to keep the springs seated when suspension unloads. I now need to either order 10" 400lb springs or if I want to get really gutsy I could experiment with a progressive rate 100/250/500lb "tender" spring and guide to sit atop this set or I can opt for the simple "fixed rate" (100psi) "helper" spring that will keep this spring seated during full suspension drop.

So many decisions, so little time.

Now I'm masking/prepping the cut upper rear strut housings for paint. But its a lot easier to see my cut lines in the pics if left raw, shiney steel.


Quote:
Posted by 1PissedOff90 on 2005-05-10 13:48:14

Yoohoo Cuatrokoop. Over at Motorgeek you said....

"Strut type suspension can't use that style damper due to the fact that it has a heim joint/rod end on it. Mance is only using those on the rear of his B4q, since those are the first gen unequal length upper/lower control arm setups found on the A4q rear... In fact, the rear setup he bought is from an A4q"

Truth is these are a custom, one-off set of Ohlins assembled and modified by me from 3 different Ohlins model shock bodies/internals. You cannot buy these for an A4/S4 as no one makes em for the rears with remote reservoirs. Stasis ran a similar yet different set on their race car but it too was custom and they dont sell remote reservoir rear Ohlins sets. Ohlins makes absolutely nothing for any Audi thats available "off-the-shelf" except for the new A3.

GAWD I wish it could've been that easy!!


Quote:
Posted by 1PissedOff90 on 2005-05-11 21:37:55

I hate my Vogtland front springs SOOOOO much I'm going to stop everything and make a coilover kit

The rear Ohlins biggest accomplishement so far has been to point out how utterly worthless the front springs are. I never loved them before and have said so here many, many times. However I've also praised the Vogtland rears every time I've slammed (no pun inyended) the fronts. I still believe we (the 12V guys) are running front Vogtlands designed for a 4/5 cylinder car with a much less weight ratio. But while I've disliked the Vogtland fronts since day one I've also praised the Vogtland rears for being really really good. But loathsome fronts with good rears do not a great-handling car make. Adding great rear suspension does not make the front suddenly better. In fact it makes it even worse... LOTS worse.

I've pored over all the sites hoping to find a better front spring to no avail. Intrax is about the only alternative and it hasnt enjoyed stellar feedback over the years. I have access to a friends 90 with B&G sprung car and it feels different than my Vogtlands but still not the confidence inspiring spring sets I've used from Eibach on my 12V A4 and 1.8T. Now for the price Eibach IS a well-designed spring that has no problem hauling the freight and doing it in a highly polished and efficient way. A GREAT spring considering its modest "sport" title. But it never bottomed out on me unlike the Vogtlands which bottom out ALL the GD time! And I'm over 100lbs lighter on the front end than the day they were installed and they STILL bottom out at the drop of a hat.

To this end I'd like to design/build a DIY coilover kit that is a world-beater compared to whats available now. I can do this faster than I can customize/assemble/test the front Ohlins I have in here now. I can also use them with these Ohlins after I complete them. But I can use the existing Bilstein Sports until I have the time to dedicate to the front Ohlins.

But I want to duplicate on these what Ohlins has taught me on their adjustable coilover setup shock bodies. I want threaded sleeves that are not anodized like everyone else uses but have been Teflon coated instead. Makes for wonderful threaded collars/spring seats and just never seems to get dirty or load up with debris in the threads. And if it does it hoses right off or blows out with compressed air. The other thing it does is allow twisting of the threaded collars by hand with gloves way way further than is possible on an anodized threaded sleeve. I have yet to take the spanner to my Ohlins as the collars can be adjusted UP/DOWN by hand... AGAINST A 400LB SPRING!!

I just think I can do this. And I can do it at least as well as anyone else has and if I'm lucky maybe even better. Maybe MUCH better! It will also allow me to design upper spring perches custom fit to the solid mounts with integrated thrust bearings.

What I need from the forum to start down this road is lots and lots of info. I need sites where pictures can be seen of sleeve kits. I need pics of other peoples installation pics for those kits. I need positive/negative feedback on coilover systems/sleeve kits people have used and if they would've designed it what they would've done differently. I want to know "how people want it" rather than "here is what we have." I want to know spring rates chosen, ride quality, length of springs and spring inside diameters. I want to know about noise issues if any and anything that could be done to make the finest kit available bar none!!


Quote:
Posted by 1PissedOff90 on 2005-05-17 20:30:55

The coilover project has begun...

went over to the salvage yard today and performed a "strutectomy" on the rear of a CQ. Got the bigger strut tubes I've been planning. They are a straight tit-for-tat swap to the B4Q 90 front hubs without so much as even affecting caster, camber or toe. Perfect! Old strut tubes can only accept up to a 44mm strut cartridge while the CQ tubes will accept the Ohlins 50mm strut insert I require. Tho I will sleeve my current Bilstein Sports to fit within this strut initially until I'm ready to drop the Ohlins in.

I bead-blasted the CQ strut tubes to get all the rust off and shot 2 pics of them side-by-side the stock B4Q front strut.

I will now turn off the stock lower spring perches in the lathe. Then I will tig some .125" x 3"length key-stock to the leading edges of both strut tubes. That will allow me to make some 7075 aluminum CNC'd steering arms with a split sleeve that can slide up and down the strut tube to maintain stock tie rod geometry with steering rack and avoid any bump-steer no matter how low I go. At that point the new struts will go to the powder-coater. Then I'll broach a key-way (1/8" slot) into the CNC'd steering arm sleeve to prevent the steering arm from moving on the strut tube once tightened to it.

I'm just going to use UrS4 tie rods as I have them around and they're SOOO much larger diameter and stronger than the stock rods. This will also save me some time initially. After the motor/transmission are done I can go back and make Ti/lightwight ones. Outer end of steering arms will get a milled hole for retaining a teflon lined spherical bearing. Lighter, faster and easier than adapting the stock UrS4 balljoints.

From that point its the normal coilover dog & pony show, ie; teflon coated threaded sleeves over the strut tubes, lower perch/height adjuster and a Mance Mount specific upper perch that adapts specifically to the solid mounts.


Quote:
Posted by 1PissedOff90 on 2005-05-21 12:36:40

Ground Control front coilover "starter kit"

Here's the stuff from Ground Control to start my front suspension using modified rear CQ strut tubes with height-adjustable CNC'd steering arms.

From front-to-rear:
1. O-rings (undetermined use?)

2. Upper spring perches. From initial inspection and measuring I dont think I'll be able to use these at all. Will make my own to adapt to solid strut mounts and fit the larger shaft front Bilstein and Ohlins strut rods.

3. Locating seat rings for threaded sleeves to rest on. (these get welded to strut tubes. Mine will sit +/- 1.25" lower than normal due to re-located steering arms.

4. Threaded sleeves and lower adjustable spring perch. I'll probably install these using 100% silicone adhesive after finish plating as they are a wee bit loose on the strut tubes for my tastes. I want to eliminate any potential for rattle/noise the "first" time and not later when I can get around to it. And I dont want to fight with them, having them turn when I'm trying to adjust the spring perches up or down.

5. Springs rear @ 10" x 2.5" in 350lb (L) and 375lb (R). Springs extreme L/R foreground: 8" x 2.5" in 400lb with helper springs and collars from my own personal "stash" of coil springs.

Work to be done:

Strut tubes have been sitting overnight in a 5 gallon pail of paint stripper to remove remaining black paint from initial bead-blasting. Once removed I'll do a final bead-blast on any remaining rust.

Then I'll tig lower threaded sleeves bases to strut tubes with T304 stainless and reinforce lower strut mounting brackets with more T304 stainless welding.

Then mill a slot to accept stainless key running vertical in strut tubes just below lower welded sleeve rings for adjustable steering arms to slide up/down and preventing them from sliding on strut tubes due to steering input or bumps etc.

I'll machine a new front sway bar link anchor point to strut tube. This will take some creative thinking as the threaded sleeves will be where existing anchor is now. I'll find a work-around when I get to that point. Probably end up locating it between lower welded ring seats and top of new steering arms and have to shorten my titanium adjustable sway bar links.

I also have to machine/thread new top strut tube cartridge retaining nuts to keep strut inside strut tubes. However I'll call Bilstein North America on Monday to see if they'll sell me the rear CQ strut caps then I can just mill a larger hole in the top for the HUGE front Bilstein hydraulic tube. I cant re-use mine as the 90's strut tubes are smaller O.D. as I showed in an earlier pic (its in my pic poster).

Final plan for finish I've chosen is black zinc chromate plating inside & out. Same I use on my soild strut mount strut nuts and my adjustable sway bar links. It's the only way to insure total rust protection due to immersion rather than a sprayed on or powder coat finish. It'll completely plate all the hidden surface areas those other tecniques cant reach.

More pics and updates as they develop.


Quote:
Posted by 1PissedOff90 on 2005-05-21 17:09:35

Stripped, bead-blasted and satin brush finished struts for coilovers...

Just finished all the prep-work on CQ rear struts in preparation for machining and black zinc plating when finished. The paint used on these things is tough as nails as even after 24 hours submerged in industrial paint stripper I still had to spend over an hour "each" bead-blasting to get residual paint off.

Once all paint was off and after bead-blasting the struts yet again for the "umpteenth" time I satin-finished the outsides using a wire wheel in my Baldor polisher then a liberal wipe-down with WD-40 to prevent rust from re-attacking the surface while waiting for me to finish machining/welding then sending to the platers.

All existing "pitting" on the strut surfaces is where rust had already taken up residence even "under" the paint. It was particularly fond of the welds holding the hub-mounting plates to the tubes and the hidden nooks & crannies around the base of the strut.

Now I think I'll take a break and enjoy whats left of the weekend doing some fun stuff like M&M's on a patio somewhere (mexican & margaritas).


Quote:
Posted by 1PissedOff90 on 2005-05-21 20:08:13

In Reply to: Looking forward to your steering-arms! ;O) posted by MikTip on 2005-05-21 20:02:08

It'll be a hybrid design drawn from the AudiSport arm and an aluminum connecting rod....

outer end will be very much like the magnesium AudiSport arm while the inner end will be a "split-ring" design like a connecting rod crank journal so it can be loosened and moved upward/downward to set bump-steer. I was considering machining a vertical "pinch sleeve" for clamping to the strut tube but that would prevent removal of the arm or replacement once lower threaded coilover sleeve rings are welded on in the event the arm were damaged. By having the "connecting rod" split-ring end it can be easily R&R'd from the strut tube same as a connecting rod is removed from the crank journal. The key groove I'll mill into the strut tube body O.D. and steering arm strut journal I.D. will keep my steering arm secure and prevent the arm from spinning, slipping or rotating on the strut tubes O.D. once tightened and in the event I encounter a hard lateral bump against the tire/wheel.


Quote:
Posted by 1PissedOff90 on 2005-08-23 11:27:52

Titanium tie rods project is under way...

First pic is a the materials used in this project along with a set of brand new left/right tie rods from WorldPac to use as a template for length and a pattern for necessary titanium tubing bends on passenger side.

My first phase of this project is to get a VERY exact length for the titanium rods as the drivers side rod is straight while the passenger side arm is bent. I MUST have exact lengths needed as all machining of tie rods for spherical bearings must be done before any bending. Cant chuck the arm up in the lathe to drill/tap for titanium internal threads once a "dog-leg" has been bent into the arm. I also want to put a slight bend at both titanium arms inside end where it attaches to the steering rack. By doing that my steering rack spherical bearings will be more aligned with their axis center and not running at such an extreme angle even when the wheels are pointing straight ahead.


Quote:
This pic shows one of the drilled/tapped Ti tubes with a spherical bearing installed next to the stock tie rod it will replace. This is NOT the spherical bearing I'll be using but it is of the same thread/bore dimension and the same one I include with the strut tower rods but not the extreme angle unit that I will use at the inboard/outboard tie rods due to up/down suspension travel.

Drilling this tubing to tap size is a BEAR of a project. VERY VERY slow speeds with a VERY expensive parabolic cobalt drill bit. Tapping on the other hand once drilled is very easy.

Next I will tap a thread on to the outside of the titanium tube so I can slip a bored out and retapped nut at the very tip to act as a jam nut against the spherical bearing jam nut thats there now. That nut will be both threaded on then welded to the Ti tubing. This way I can make alignment adjustments by turning the nut that will be welded to the Ti tube after loosening the bearing jam nut. By using a right hand nut at the steering arm end and a left-hand thread at the rack end its very simple to shorten/lengthen the arms once loosened at each end by turning in/out.

This setup once done will weigh less than 1/7 of stock arms, be 35% stronger than stock and drop over 15 pounds compared to the stock tie rods.


Quote:
Posted by 1PissedOff90 on 2005-08-23 17:34:09

In Reply to: You'll only easily be able to adjust the drivers side, correct? posted by newt_90v8q on 2005-08-23 15:29:20

I'm hoping since my steering arms are height adjustable I'll be able to leave both tie rods straight

since the bend on the right arm is to avoid the frame rail at full suspension drop. I have several methods to ward off any potential contact including stand-off bushings between steering arms and tie rod spherical bearing.

My ideal will be perfectly straight tie rods that fit within my steering arm adjustment range and no need for tie rod bending. The slight bend I was imagining for the inboard (steering rack) end will make the setup more complicated than it need be so I've already blown that off as a design feature.

I'm thnking now after a test/trial fitment an hour ago I'm going to get away with "arrow-straight" tie rods on both sides of the car. That wont break my heart!!

[Mcstiff]

Cool finds!

The comment about the right rear alignment answers a question I've been pondering ;-)

As cool as the front is, you can still feel that the Ohlins are doing better work. It would be cool to find a good Macpherson insert that could match them, so that I could keep the adjustable arms. I'll be interested to hear about Jims motorsport Konis.

[audifreakjim]

Me too, three laps before the motor blew wasn't enough to see how they feel. Mine are re-valved sport cartridges so they are road worthy and all that stuff.

[Mcstiff]

This is an interesting unit...

[audifreakjim]

3.0t unit? Do it!

[PRY4SNO]

As much as I prefer turbos > superchargers, this is a great idea for (at least) a few reasons...

-- it's an OEM unit
-- keeps Mance's work of art intact
-- different from most builds

[dalspaugh]

oh dear...! as a 12V owner... I'm watching...

[Mcstiff]

Well, maybe.

I do love taking a different route but I think the 07k is still a nice twist on a modern RS2 Sedan. I do want to continue the spirit of the build, this is why a ur20vt was never really on the table. The car was always destined for more power, Mance had the resources to build a 300hp NA 12v and I'm not sure I'm up for that build. Of course, I could just ask Rebello to build 90% of a world challenge 12v for ~10k, find somebody to build headers, maybe do ITBs. I think that a built 12v would weight 300# and the 07k is about 375 (from the scale pic of Sean's). So is saving 75# worth ~200HP? I know which would be "easier"; would the 07k be more reliable, efficient, enjoyable? A high HP 12v will not be very strong <4k, so the 07k with the right turbo could be more responsive. Heat is my #1 concern with the turbo 2.5. An NA 07k would be an interesting step but why build an NA header when you can just start with a conservative turbo. I may just do the front suspension and get some track time before chasing power

Anyway, the pic above is stolen but the blower is an SC14, used by Toyota in the Previa I found it because somebody is parting one out in Denver.

It's a pretty interesting unit, seems popular in with Aussies on Holden V6s. It displaces 1400cc vs the 3.0T's TVS 1320's 1320cc; of course, I am sure the TVS is more efficient.

I've looked at many TVS pics and it would require a fare bit of fabrication to fit and I'd want heat exchangers in the manifold. You can see how you'd have to remove the long runners (in the middle) and adapt the TVS to the 12v port spacing (the shape is off but I believe both left banks are back).



The SC14 has mounts like an AC compressor and would allow a FMIC. Conveniently, I don't have an AC compressor so there is an open location (for a different system, I am plotting on how to remove the upper pulley, which would require getting creative):



Maybe the older route with idler could work:



As you can see, I've put some thought into supercharging. If the PES G2 would bolt to the 12v heads I'd likely do it but I'm not sure it's worth my time to engineer a one off setup without building the bottom end and I, basically, excluded that above. In the 40-some days before BBQ, I may see about making a VEMS harness. Not sure if the 12v triggers will adapt correctly.

[Einbilden]

Nice Car I to was witness to its Birth. I spent quite some time reading the threads etc. Did the intake mod and matched heads, bored out Maf and bored out tb. Woke my 2.8L 12V up a bit. By what I understand More than 10 PSI of charge pressure on the stock high compression pistons ,,Things go BOOOOMM..

[Mcstiff]

Nice Car I to was witness to its Birth. I spent quite some time reading the threads etc. Did the intake mod and matched heads, bored out Maf and bored out tb. Woke my 2.8L 12V up a bit. By what I understand More than 10 PSI of charge pressure on the stock high compression pistons ,,Things go BOOOOMM..

Thanks, I did not follow from the beginning but did for a while.

WRT boost, I understand the concern and I think it is much like the common opinion of the 7a (both about the same compression BTW). This is not to say that a 12v has the overhead of an AAN but the 12v pistons don't look too bad:


*these are from a C4

Of course I can't find a 7a piston pic but they have similar beef. Cast does not hold up to heat/detonation but I think 8-10psi would be reasonable. Especially with E85 or water injection. I have no idea if the real issue is rods.

[dana]

it seems that, given the nature of normal audi rods, that stock 12v rods would be completely fine at 10psi. E85 and a good tune, and I would be totally comfortable trying it.

[Mcstiff]

Yeah, it's hard to tell. They are not beefy but meh:



http://www.audiworld.com/forums/12v-v6- ... v-2876099/

[ChrisAudi80]

COOL! I looked at those Aisin chargers before when I still had the 2.0 in my 80. It would be a lot of fabrication for maybe little gain, except it was unusual.

Seems like you have a good spot for the SC14. 10.3:1 and E85 with some sort of IC should work.
I don't recall what kind of ECU you have in it. Is it tuneable?

[Mcstiff]

I'd have to go standalone, the 12v ECU never got much development.

I haven't made a choice yet, just day dreaming.

[PRY4SNO]

Do you have an end goal, or just exploring various options?

[audifreakjim]

LOL

[Mcstiff]

Citius Altius Fortius? I don't know, Hank's urQ with ~600WHP was pretty impressive to drive.

The only AWD track car I'll build will have a tube frame and dual a-arm suspension, so the 90 always going to be a street car for me. This is not to say that I will not take it to the track, just that it's never getting a cage and it's strengths need to be focused as such. I don't think this is a departure from the build's history, Mance was building it to lap all day......like a roadtrip B-)

When I bought the 90, 15 months ago, I was plotting to 07k & KW the CQ as a next step from the 7aT with H&R coils. As I've said before, I'm tempted to deal with the 90's front suspension (match the dampers to the rear) before power. I think 350wph is the minimum and I don't want to add any weight to the nose.

[alxdgr8]

http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/pts/5212782297.html

I'm sure you could make it work...

[Mcstiff]

There has been one near me FS too. My issue with the G2 are that it's a pretty vanilla Eaton M62 with a manifold which is wrong for the 12v, no intercooling, and an ECU which is wrong. Seems like a bad place to start, especially compared to spending the same on 07k conversion parts.

[Mcstiff]