TCombs UrS4, Coolant leak, Voltage Regulator

[ringbearer]

I haven't updated in too long but I haven't really worked on it either It's doing well and just getting maintenance for now. I'd like to do more but no extra time or money currently. I'm glad I got it to a good point before kids!

[TCombs]

I haven't updated in too long but I haven't really worked on it either It's doing well and just getting maintenance for now. I'd like to do more but no extra time or money currently. I'm glad I got it to a good point before kids!

I got cha. I have the time and some great resources at work, but I don’t make that much money, so it’s hard to get things. I just have to keep saving like I had done to be able to buy the manifold and some maintenance parts.

I’ll have to gather a parts list and figure out what all I want to do. Based off your posts and advice along with a couple others and Chris’ write up might be a solid plan to do QA1 in the rear and custom coils up front with 2B caster/camber. That’s more a short-long term goal. There are some things i need to take care of here soon. Just a rattle from one of my heat shields and need to replace my fan bearing so I can just have a quite-ish, smooth ride. Ha

[TCombs]

Back to the fan. Has anyone ever heard of or tried getting rid of the belt driven fan and switched to a electric fan controlled by a toggle switch or connected to the factory temp. controller?

[TCombs]

I have been looking at Mishimoto fans, and I some what measured the fan shroud. I think I could get a 16" race fan, pushing around 2200cfm to replace the belt driven viscous fan.
Does anyone know if this is possible? I wouldn't screw anything up ditching the factory fan would I?

[TCombs]

So I bought a fan from summit racing, 16" flex-a-lite but it didn't fit. I believe 16" will work, but the fan was to thick. I need to go with a small profile fan to be able to clear all of the pulleys. While I was in there I did end up replacing the fan bearing with a new OEM part. I was a little nervous going into it, but it was pretty straight forward, especially with the right tools. I still have the a roaring noise, and almost a belt screeching noise. Not sure if I need to also replace the actual fan, but I am going to drop the belt driven fan go with an electric anyway once I find a fan that will clear.
I did try belt 6PK1300, or 6k1300 (Continental Contitech) and it does work perfect for bypassing the fan, just incase.
Along with the electric fan I believe I need a new power steering pump, but I'm not looking forward to that. They are $$$$. Cheapest I could find was $550 before the core exchange. I will have to check with work tomorrow and see if I can get it a little cheaper, but I'm doubting it. So I am back to the drawing board.

[ringbearer]

Love the variety in the shop! Try a spal fan, should have better luck.

[Lucky]

I agree on spal, i have been looking at these for my 80.

https://webstore.spalusa.com/en-us/prod ... +-+16.aspx

[ringbearer]

https://the-fan-man.com/product-categor ... tric-fans/

Search here...

[TCombs]

https://the-fan-man.com/product-category/spal-electric-fans/

Search here...

I have been look around, and the smallest profile I can find, with the most CFM is a Flex-A-Lite.
Here is the link:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/flx-118

[TCombs]

Had some time yesterday and decided to take out the factory speakers and amps. The relay for my amps was staying open and that’s what was causing my battery drain issue. I haven’t had a radio for a couple months now anyway so I just pulled them out. It was pretty straight forward. I used a thread that I found somewhere. It was about a “bosectomy”. Super helpful.
Eventually I will get some new speakers, and the plan is to custom make a bezel for a double din for apple car play. But there are other things on the list to take care of first.

[TCombs]

I realized, I have yet to post any pictures of my wheels. I got the wheels powder coated earlier this year with brand new Conti Contact DWS 06! I also got the car aligned just to make sure everything was good to go and also so I don't destroy my brand new tyres! I love the color of the wheels. I think they turned out super good, and I am very happy with them. I think they go great with the green, but that is just my opinion
I dropped off my motor mounts today to get powder coated. Should be done by the week's end.

[ringbearer]

Very nice!

[vt10vt]

Love it, bronze wheels pop on dark cars.

[TCombs]

Maybe I am an idiot or something but I can't get my Hersh motor mounts to fit. The factory motor mounts angle in up at the top but my new ones don't and they get caught up at the top and I can't mount them in. Is there any trick to mounting these in?

EDIT: I can get them in, but they don't sit flush at the bottom with the two bolts. Do I just tighten down until they are flush?

EDIT2: Nevermind. I am "learning" and didn't know that I needed to suck them down to sit flush! All is good now!

[TCombs]

I got the mounts in. Little harder then I expected but I got them taken care of. The P/S was pretty bad. There is some more vibration at idle and in 1st and 2nd. You can feel it in the footwells but I am happy they are new.
Had some trouble installing the passenger side, but once I took the snub mount off it was pretty easy. All in all a good day, bit frustrating but good. Next is the power steering pump and intake manifold spacer.

[PRY4SNO]

Something you can try to reduce the vibration is unbolt the mounts so they're loose. Start the car and let it idle. Now torque down the mounts to final spec and see if that helped by going for a rip around the block.

[TCombs]

So the next thing on the list is figuring out my brakes. As it sits right now I believe the car currently has Porsche 993 calipers up front and stock in the rears. The fronts will need new pads and rotors soon, however I have a chance to get a set of 996 calipers for a nice price and was wondering if there was any benefit to running these. Would it allow me to run a larger rotor size?
Being that I think they are 993 calipers I believe I also have the RS2 adapters to run such brakes with a 2 piece rotor that also the hat to run the correct hub bore and bolt pattern.
I am unsure if I should get the 996 and do a refresh with new 996/Boxster S adapters (Apikol) and try and find rotors that work, or just get new pads and once again try and find rotors that work. Im not sure how the hats are but I will inspect them next weekend to see if I also need new hats. I wouldn't mind going 996 up front and then finding another set of Porsche brakes for the rear.

My next question may be stupid but I have't looked that hard at the system. With the hats being 2 piece, does that mean I can pretty much find any stock size 996 rotor that is a 2 piece and just swap hats to make sure they are right? Where can I find new hats and hardware just in case?
The calipers are almost to good of a price to pass up even if I don't use them, although I wouldn't like to just because they are newer.

[vt10vt]

Assuming you're talking base calipers I'd stick with the 993 caliper. You get a little more rotor with the 996 caliper but 993 calipers are bigger, stiffer, and provide better, more consistent clamping. Even if you're talking Turbo calipers (Big Reds vs. 996TT calipers) I think I'd still take the 993 stuff. My guess is even the big 17z is about comparable to your current caliper setup but an 18Z caliper might be an upgrade, although it also might affect wheel choice.

[TCombs]

Assuming you're talking base calipers I'd stick with the 993 caliper. You get a little more rotor with the 996 caliper but 993 calipers are bigger, stiffer, and provide better, more consistent clamping. Even if you're talking Turbo calipers (Big Reds vs. 996TT calipers) I think I'd still take the 993 stuff. My guess is even the big 17z is about comparable to your current caliper setup but an 18Z caliper might be an upgrade, although it also might affect wheel choice.

Thanks Shawn. They are the base calipers, non-turbo. Obviously the 996 is nee then the 993 so I didnt know if there was a benefit of getting some newer technology. As I said I think I will buy them anyway, just in case. To good of a deal to pss up. Ill try to find some more info, but based off what you said ill try and just find some nee rotors and pads. For some reason I thought the 996 were bigger, but maybe that was just overall length. I didnt know that they were stiffer, meaning the actual brake feel? They are both monobloc cailpers so they are pretty stout.

[vt10vt]

Thanks Shawn. They are the base calipers, non-turbo. Obviously the 996 is nee then the 993 so I didnt know if there was a benefit of getting some newer technology. As I said I think I will buy them anyway, just in case. To good of a deal to pss up. Ill try to find some more info, but based off what you said ill try and just find some nee rotors and pads. For some reason I thought the 996 were bigger, but maybe that was just overall length. I didnt know that they were stiffer, meaning the actual brake feel? They are both monobloc cailpers so they are pretty stout.

The problem is the 996 calipers are aluminum where the 993 are cast iron. That's where the stiffness and pedal feel comes in. Again, the 996 does use a slightly bigger rotor (although the calipers are physically smaller), so if aesthetics are your goal the 996 makes sense.

When I was at Rennline the boss tried 996 calipers on his 993 track car. We had a set around and it was time for a pad/rotor change so we figured we'd throw them on for an easy upgrade. They lasted one event and were swapped back. Fade and pedal feel both suffered and although the times were similar his feedback was that they felt a lot less consistent.

[TCombs]

Thanks Shawn. They are the base calipers, non-turbo. Obviously the 996 is nee then the 993 so I didnt know if there was a benefit of getting some newer technology. As I said I think I will buy them anyway, just in case. To good of a deal to pss up. Ill try to find some more info, but based off what you said ill try and just find some nee rotors and pads. For some reason I thought the 996 were bigger, but maybe that was just overall length. I didnt know that they were stiffer, meaning the actual brake feel? They are both monobloc cailpers so they are pretty stout.

The problem is the 996 calipers are aluminum where the 993 are cast iron. That's where the stiffness and pedal feel comes in. Again, the 996 does use a slightly bigger rotor (although the calipers are physically smaller), so if aesthetics are your goal the 996 makes sense.

When I was at Rennline the boss tried 996 calipers on his 993 track car. We had a set around and it was time for a pad/rotor change so we figured we'd throw them on for an easy upgrade. They lasted one event and were swapped back. Fade and pedal feel both suffered and although the times were similar his feedback was that they felt a lot less consistent.

I appreciate the feedback of some first had experience. I'll most likely just get new rotors and pads in that case. The next thing is finding the right ones. Haven't had much luck when searching for those. Maybe I can find a way to mock up the 996 calipers in the back.
I don't track the car, and don't plan to for awhile, until I get the suspension dialed in more. So you have gave me some things to think about.

[TCombs]

Quick steering rack question. My passenger side boot (bellow) on my steering rack is torn and leaking. Is there any possible way to just replace the boot without taking out the entire rack? Or do I have to pull the whole thing to get a new one on there?

[ringbearer]

You need to have a rack rebuilt by Jorgens. The bellow is just a dust boot, it needs a rebuild If fluid leaks from anywhere.

[IslandRinger]

You need to have a rack rebuilt by Jorgens. The bellow is just a dust boot, it needs a rebuild If fluid leaks from anywhere.

Are there rebuild kits available for these racks or is it strictly shop-rebuild item?

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

[ringbearer]

I think you can find rebuild kits but I’d send it out and be pretty much assured it’s done right the first time. Not a fun R&R!