Nick's 1991 200q Project - QUAT44RO

[yodasfro]

Yeah those keyways are are known to shear if you look at them the wrong way. Audi specific no not really you can pick up a universal job off ebay cheap or like you said make you own a couple of bolts and some flat iron.
Might be able to rent one at autozone/advance

[amd is the best]

And we're back in action! Still have to tune though.

[40v4kq]

One of the best looking 200's in IMHO. Where did you get the little lip spoiler that is on your trunk lid?

[amd is the best]

One of the best looking 200's in IMHO. Where did you get the little lip spoiler that is on your trunk lid?

Thanks Dan! The spoiler is a universal "M3" style purchased off of eBay. It's cut to a length of 50.5" which is a perfect fit. Mine wasn't painted but now you can provide the company with your color code and it'll come to your door ready to install: http://www.ebay.com/itm/50-5-INCHES-Pai ... 150wt_1016

[ringbearer]

Mystery glue LOL

[amd is the best]

Took my lunch break and did some tuning. Probably good to go as is but I'll probably play with it a little bit more this weekend.

The car has been at ~25psi :woowoo: for quite some time now and loving it. Ultimately, I figure since the new cams will add a decent amount of top end, I'll just run less boost (< 25psi) to put me back to the approximate power I was at. This should hopefully keep my rods nice and straight.

After the lunch break tuning, I have the AFR's dialed in for something like 21-22psi. The car feels strong and I'm liking the new exhaust note. From about 4000-7500rpm the VE table had to be increased approx 8-10units at the same kpa. I guess these cams really do make her breathe a bit better :-)

Side note, TRIGGER ERRORS STILL SUCK. I think I may tinker with a few things this weekend to see if I can eliminate some of them. Meh.

Also, I forgot to mention. The oil deflector that sits on top of the cam caps and below the oil fill cap cracked in half accidentally. Think it's ok to run without it or should I find a replacement?

[40v4kq]

As long as your oil cap is good you probably will be ok but finding a replacement wouldn't be a bad idea. factory put it there for a reason.

[amd is the best]

I've got a brand new cap as of last year, so that should be ok anyway. I could put half of it back in there too, it was actually more like 2/3.

Found the part number for it: 034103553. Probably NLA.

[Heed]

will be getting one of those spoilers sometime. thanks for the link 8)
cant wait to start actually tuning and modding my engine though. after all it is my favorite part of the car. chip SOON

[loxxrider]

I haven't had one in there for a long time. I figure it does nothing but keep you from getting splashed with oil if you are dumb enough to open the cap while the car is running.

Trigger errors do suck. I hope we can get them sorted soon. I may be going to a different trigger system this year depending on how the build pans out (I'll definitely need to with even higher RPM).

[amd is the best]

Did you ever try adjusting your disty in efforts to make sure that the TDC pin and disty hall sync simultaneously? I'm going to test the theory this weekend. Just try rotating it a bit in one direction, test. Repeat if necessary.

[loxxrider]

Nope, never did.

[amd is the best]

Not sure if this is related to the cams or not but the car seems to be smoking a bit more. It's defiantly oil. Think it's possible that with the extra lift of the cams is putting the valves somewhere they've never seen before on the seals causing the issue?

I'm going to check the compression again soon just for piece of mind. I don't think it's the bottom end though.

Ive also noticed prior to the cam install that right after the most recent oil change I've smelt oil much more then in the past. Maybe it's the oil. I tried Valvoline VR1 20w-50 non-synthetic racing oil. Maybe that's the issue here.

[crappyoldaudis]

yeah dude valve stem seals are toast at that mileage. Nothing but fairy dust holding them together.

[amd is the best]

This winter will involve rebuilding the head and bottom end for sure.

[amd is the best]

Fixed the trigger errors bitches! I did a bunch of things at once which makes it tricky to determine which fixed them however I'll disclose what I did.

1. I replaced the sensor that reads the TDC pin.
2. I removed the top bolt on the VR sensor bracket and rocked it as far forward as it'd go.
3. I pulled the disty cap off and the dust shield that covers the trigger ring/hall sensor. I put the engine at TDC and the window did not line up with the window. I twisted the disty until the window was right over the center of the sensor.

BOOM! SOLVED!

[crappyoldaudis]

you left some words out of #3 and I do not know wutefukurtalkinabout.

[loxxrider]

NICE!!!

[amd is the best]

you left some words out of #3 and I do not know wutefukurtalkinabout.

Damn autocorrect. Lol. Was supposed to be disty not dirty.

[EDIGREG]

The timing being off is definitely the cause. Glad you got them fixed though, they are a PITA.

[amd is the best]

It's such a relief. It has been killing me since the VEMS install just not enough to actually do anything about it. Haha. It hasn't done one yet so fingers crossed but I believe it's resolved.

Side note. I have fixed my tail lights finally. Not sure if you guys ever noticed but the inside running lights on my 200 were out. One stopped working and I just pulled the bulb out of the other side. I didn't like not having my rear fog anymore so I finally got around to looking at the issue. Found it in minutes. Broken wire right where the trunk hinges are. The wires were all scary brittle, not one of them had intact insulation and one was completely broken. Fixed!

On to the next. The drivers side auto window feature. It works but can't be stopped. I hit down and it goes down automatically but I cant interrupt it. It has to go to the bottom every time, wait for it to override its relay then I can put it back up. Any ideas? Is there a specific relay for just the auto drivers widow? I know it's not the switch.

Also, I'll be doing a full detail of the car for Carlisle come Wednesday or Thursday. Not to the extent of last year (because that much polishing is unnecessary now) but will include wash, clay bar, glaze, sealant and wax plus the wheels will get sealed and interior cleaned. Shouldn't be bad.

[tbar]

Quick question: I pretty much copied your detailing step you out lined before I went to Battleborn, It worked great. The car went from pink back to shiney red. So when you re-wax your car do you machine apply it or just hand wax?

BTW, great news with the vems, I'm saving for it now.

[amd is the best]

Quick question: I pretty much copied your detailing step you out lined before I went to Battleborn, It worked great. The car went from pink back to shiney red. So when you re-wax your car do you machine apply it or just hand wax?

BTW, great news with the vems, I'm saving for it now.

Awesome! I'm glad the process worked well for you as well!

As far as the detailing goes, the steps that I plan to do can all be done by hand. Machine might help get it done a bit faster though. I'll most likely glaze and seal with the RO then wax by hand with a foam applicator. I could probably get away with doing the following:

1: Wash car (diy pressure wash type car wash to get wheels/wheel wells real good).
2: Clay bar (only if necessary, ie tar/bugs/sap/etc).
3: Clean the entire car with iso alcohol.
4: Glaze
5: Seal
6: Wax

[amd is the best]

So, after several people busting my balls this weekend about not having A/C and having to drive home Sunday without it I was motivated to put it back in the car today. When I pulled the engine last winter to do the turbo and all the other treats I stripped out a fitting on what I believe was the A/C dryer (some kind of canister right behind the headlight). I ordered the part that week and it has sat since then.

So today, I pulled the front end off and reinstalled all of the components. I used an R134a recharge can and put in ~35psi of refrigerant however the clutch will not engage. I have no idea what's wrong. I tried jumping the low pressure switch and no go. I supplied 12v to the clutch and it engaged, so I know the clutch is good. There are no errors reported from the climate control system.

I don't have a spare a/c relay and it's huge money from the dealer otherwise I'd test that.

The A/C system worked flawlessly prior to pulling the engine and stripping that fitting. What could have changed between then and now? Anyone have any ideas?

[32vquattro]

sorry