Aarons Drag CQ: 3-29 anodized and welded stuff. AN lines
- speeding-g60
- Posts: 2152
- Joined: Fri Mar 01, 2013 10:46 am
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naudi80quattro
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Matt
If you are going to use the car for drag racing a 42r is not really necessary. You can just go with a gt42 and save the money spent on a 42r. Most of the Supras running 42s and DSMers with 42ster baca don't bother with the dual ball bearing center because they are using launch control and with no-lift-shifting you don't really lose anything between shifts...
- speeding-g60
- Posts: 2152
- Joined: Fri Mar 01, 2013 10:46 am
so i been shopping for myself lately....
got a billion stupid -AN fittings for the fuel setup.
custom cell will be built up front ahead of the driver front tire area.
goes -10 AN to twin Bosch 044's, and then -8AN out to merge into a single -10AN line. 10 micron filter, then -10AN out to Race-Craft fuel rail. thru fuel rail, then -6AN out to Fuel Lab FPR. then return to fuel cell.
fueling is nice and compact. no long lines to deal with.
next up: Corbeau race seat, Forza Wide and black in color. same as the rabbit.

RCI Platinum 4 year cert belt 6 point for driver only. no passengers allowed @ 10 seconds. sorry.

CLUTCHMASTERS FX700 TWIN DISC CLUTCH SETUP!!!!! :woowoo:

the mount and adapter for remote oil filter location. just need to decide on an oil cooler, and placement for it. oil handling will be off the block thru the filter, then thru the cooler, and back to motor.
also have the harness being assembled for the SEM. sorry guys, part of the details of the build were based upon using my same SEM setup and just another harness being made for it. saves me alot of $$$ this way. and you can only drive one car at a time anyhow....
Bosch modified 1000cc injectors. high impedance. flow is excellent....


i also got different valves for the head. i have Supertech valves already. +1mm OS intake, SS Nitrided.... standard size Inconel exhaust. but since i want to turn this thing way high, i got the same set but with the single groove keeper option. so i got an extra set of 4cyl 20v ST valves layin around now. brand new never used.
have fully decided on a T4 divided inlet turbo. but that will remain under wraps for a bit yet. but its big. i wont be living under 5800-6k rpms, so spool up is not an issue once its there....
dual Tial 38mm MS-V V-band wastegates. and the manifold will be made by Marrku thru Issam.... all i gotta do is tack the inlet flange to the head flange how i want it, and kick back and wait. Marrku does some GREAT welds..... veeeerrrrry impressive stuff.
tomorrow i am going to measure up the car for a custom made cage from S&W Racecars....
and today i spent a little time on the phone with my axle guys.... Marco is gonna make some axles for me. i have decided not to go thru what Mike (Ringlord) and Janis( fasterthenRS2) and others have, killing them left and right. i thought by getting S2 stuff would be ok, but those break as well. so may as well start off at the top.
and one other thing i ordered non car related? steel toe Sorrel-styled work boots. it gets cold where i am working.... need to keep them toesies warmed up. i have pix i will upload one. if you guys remember the outdoor fab shop, well it is no more. apparently snow has some weight to it
got a billion stupid -AN fittings for the fuel setup.
custom cell will be built up front ahead of the driver front tire area.
goes -10 AN to twin Bosch 044's, and then -8AN out to merge into a single -10AN line. 10 micron filter, then -10AN out to Race-Craft fuel rail. thru fuel rail, then -6AN out to Fuel Lab FPR. then return to fuel cell.
fueling is nice and compact. no long lines to deal with.
next up: Corbeau race seat, Forza Wide and black in color. same as the rabbit.

RCI Platinum 4 year cert belt 6 point for driver only. no passengers allowed @ 10 seconds. sorry.
CLUTCHMASTERS FX700 TWIN DISC CLUTCH SETUP!!!!! :woowoo:

the mount and adapter for remote oil filter location. just need to decide on an oil cooler, and placement for it. oil handling will be off the block thru the filter, then thru the cooler, and back to motor.
also have the harness being assembled for the SEM. sorry guys, part of the details of the build were based upon using my same SEM setup and just another harness being made for it. saves me alot of $$$ this way. and you can only drive one car at a time anyhow....

Bosch modified 1000cc injectors. high impedance. flow is excellent....


i also got different valves for the head. i have Supertech valves already. +1mm OS intake, SS Nitrided.... standard size Inconel exhaust. but since i want to turn this thing way high, i got the same set but with the single groove keeper option. so i got an extra set of 4cyl 20v ST valves layin around now. brand new never used.
have fully decided on a T4 divided inlet turbo. but that will remain under wraps for a bit yet. but its big. i wont be living under 5800-6k rpms, so spool up is not an issue once its there....
dual Tial 38mm MS-V V-band wastegates. and the manifold will be made by Marrku thru Issam.... all i gotta do is tack the inlet flange to the head flange how i want it, and kick back and wait. Marrku does some GREAT welds..... veeeerrrrry impressive stuff.
tomorrow i am going to measure up the car for a custom made cage from S&W Racecars....
and today i spent a little time on the phone with my axle guys.... Marco is gonna make some axles for me. i have decided not to go thru what Mike (Ringlord) and Janis( fasterthenRS2) and others have, killing them left and right. i thought by getting S2 stuff would be ok, but those break as well. so may as well start off at the top.
and one other thing i ordered non car related? steel toe Sorrel-styled work boots. it gets cold where i am working.... need to keep them toesies warmed up. i have pix i will upload one. if you guys remember the outdoor fab shop, well it is no more. apparently snow has some weight to it

- speeding-g60
- Posts: 2152
- Joined: Fri Mar 01, 2013 10:46 am
got the NGK AFX wideband 02 setup. the AEM Uego setup i have been using somehow became ultra unreliable. as it it dont work no more.... bought 2 new extra 02 sensors, still nothing. so i got the AFX for both cars....
and i like it as it can wire right in to the SEM and read AFR in the ECU....
it has 9:0 to 16:0 AFR with 0-5v output. i already have the values to dial in for the ECU.... normally the ECU takes a 10:0 to 20:0 AFR, but this just makes it a little more accurate.

i think i have settled on the Convo-Pro rims as well.
and i like it as it can wire right in to the SEM and read AFR in the ECU....
it has 9:0 to 16:0 AFR with 0-5v output. i already have the values to dial in for the ECU.... normally the ECU takes a 10:0 to 20:0 AFR, but this just makes it a little more accurate.

i think i have settled on the Convo-Pro rims as well.
- speeding-g60
- Posts: 2152
- Joined: Fri Mar 01, 2013 10:46 am
and my fab area is no more..... its ok cuz its cold out anymore....
here it is two weeks ago

and here it is monday this week. sees i heard we got 60" in december... thats some snow.... and this was a complete wreckage of the tent things.... had to dig out and move everything inside. but that is far from our materials, etc. sucks. now i cant keep an eye on the crew, either :(

here it is two weeks ago

and here it is monday this week. sees i heard we got 60" in december... thats some snow.... and this was a complete wreckage of the tent things.... had to dig out and move everything inside. but that is far from our materials, etc. sucks. now i cant keep an eye on the crew, either :(

- speeding-g60
- Posts: 2152
- Joined: Fri Mar 01, 2013 10:46 am
worked on the car today. YAY!!!!!
got the 01E lined up where it needs to go, and everything made up. went solid on the mounts. it should stay plenty rigid now.
here is the final product. i *may* throw a small gusset plate under the passenger side. its pretty rigid, but it would not hurt to have it there.... (actually going out to do it now)
anyways. the solid mount. two plates to sandwich the subframe mount location. drilled larger holes for bigger fasteners.
i think it will work.











and of course, my work area here at home. it sucks doing this kind of work under there.... oh well. its done. now to eat, and then go back out and remove them for painting.

got the 01E lined up where it needs to go, and everything made up. went solid on the mounts. it should stay plenty rigid now.
here is the final product. i *may* throw a small gusset plate under the passenger side. its pretty rigid, but it would not hurt to have it there.... (actually going out to do it now)
anyways. the solid mount. two plates to sandwich the subframe mount location. drilled larger holes for bigger fasteners.
i think it will work.
and of course, my work area here at home. it sucks doing this kind of work under there.... oh well. its done. now to eat, and then go back out and remove them for painting.
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zerb
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death 4kqt
- speeding-g60
- Posts: 2152
- Joined: Fri Mar 01, 2013 10:46 am
Johnny, same thing applies there, for the motor mounts to chassis. and i try on the welding :thanks:
plus, i added that gusset to the pass one. will pic it later.... its drying now. all in all, i would say i had a fair day of working on it.
and death 4kqt.... i like returning the favor to those that have done things that i want to do.... makes it easier... no secrets... glad to help out always.
only thing i can suggest? do it in place. i did this in place, with the subframe i seam welded up. i welded what i could easily on the mounts in the car, but had to remove to finish. i do not like welding overhead, especially on the trailer under the car. so when it was all said and done, i went to mount it up to the spare subframe i have. funny thing: they did not work on the spare subframe, but did on the one in the car. and they still bolt right up on the seam welded one. even stranger is the fact that the non seam welded subframe was in the car earlier today, with no mounting problems. so the mount tabs on them seem to be oriented just a little differently. and to think i almost made them with the non welded SF in the car at the time. been using the spare stuff (trans, subframe, etc) for mockup purposes...
also, i had to reassemble the whole front end, so i could position the trans in the correct location side to side. i spent about 2 hours just dicking with it. jack up front, move over 1/4 inch, lower a teeny bit and raise tail end up tiny bit, lots of time. but, i feel it is pretty close to perfect. within 11/16" out side to side i would guess. when i take the axles loose from the trans flanges, they compress a little bit. and when i set it up i tried to make it so that they would be in the exact middle of this cv compression factor. i think i may be about 1/16" more on one side that the other.
but the drivline is running really straight and flat. i tried to get a good feel for it all by looking under my other coupe quattro, but it has all that heat shielding crap there so i could not see it really.
and, i have minimal modificating to do to the tunnel for the UrS4 linkage that came with the trans originally.some, but not much. i much rather mod the floor than the linkage.....
plus, i added that gusset to the pass one. will pic it later.... its drying now. all in all, i would say i had a fair day of working on it.

and death 4kqt.... i like returning the favor to those that have done things that i want to do.... makes it easier... no secrets... glad to help out always.
only thing i can suggest? do it in place. i did this in place, with the subframe i seam welded up. i welded what i could easily on the mounts in the car, but had to remove to finish. i do not like welding overhead, especially on the trailer under the car. so when it was all said and done, i went to mount it up to the spare subframe i have. funny thing: they did not work on the spare subframe, but did on the one in the car. and they still bolt right up on the seam welded one. even stranger is the fact that the non seam welded subframe was in the car earlier today, with no mounting problems. so the mount tabs on them seem to be oriented just a little differently. and to think i almost made them with the non welded SF in the car at the time. been using the spare stuff (trans, subframe, etc) for mockup purposes...
also, i had to reassemble the whole front end, so i could position the trans in the correct location side to side. i spent about 2 hours just dicking with it. jack up front, move over 1/4 inch, lower a teeny bit and raise tail end up tiny bit, lots of time. but, i feel it is pretty close to perfect. within 11/16" out side to side i would guess. when i take the axles loose from the trans flanges, they compress a little bit. and when i set it up i tried to make it so that they would be in the exact middle of this cv compression factor. i think i may be about 1/16" more on one side that the other.
but the drivline is running really straight and flat. i tried to get a good feel for it all by looking under my other coupe quattro, but it has all that heat shielding crap there so i could not see it really.
and, i have minimal modificating to do to the tunnel for the UrS4 linkage that came with the trans originally.some, but not much. i much rather mod the floor than the linkage.....
- speeding-g60
- Posts: 2152
- Joined: Fri Mar 01, 2013 10:46 am
fasterthenrs2 wrote:I think I have seen something like this once before, looks god man :woowoo:
speeding-g60 wrote: i like returning the favor to those that have done things that i want to do.... makes it easier...
yes, Janis, you have. yours were the last ones i looked at before i went outside this morning.... and they say imitation is the most sincere form of flattery hahahahaha
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HT Motorsport
- Posts: 350
- Joined: Wed Feb 27, 2013 11:56 am
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zerb
- speeding-g60
- Posts: 2152
- Joined: Fri Mar 01, 2013 10:46 am
its possible. but with everything pretty much solid, there isnt anywhere for it to go? but Issam has given me some pixorz of them.... going to make my own core support/cross bracing up there. so i can incorporate something to take care of that at the same time.
ETKA has one in there for the 4cyl motors. so we will see when it comes that time.
ETKA has one in there for the 4cyl motors. so we will see when it comes that time.
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death 4kqt
I would bet you won't need a snub mount. With my turbo 4k I had just the ford mustang transmission mounts for engine mounts and no snubber and new factory trans mounts and my engine was rock solid. Granted I didn't do anything like you will be doing, but I did beat the crap out of the car with hard drag launches and such and the thing never moved a bit.
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zerb
- speeding-g60
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- Joined: Fri Mar 01, 2013 10:46 am
looks to me like 8E0 199 343 J that is listed for 2004 A4Q 1.8T 06a motor AMB code. there is no "j" following it if it was an 058 block car...
that is the bracket. the actual rubber part on the end a person would want performance i would think.
something like this? but i read somewhere it is the same maybe as the old skool MK1 rabbit front mount? etka has them both listed. the A4Q one starts with 8E0, and the MK1 starts with 171 but the rest of the numbers are the same, xxx 199 339. crazy.... i bet they are they same.
http://www.034motorsport.com/product_in ... ucts_id=53
that is the bracket. the actual rubber part on the end a person would want performance i would think.
something like this? but i read somewhere it is the same maybe as the old skool MK1 rabbit front mount? etka has them both listed. the A4Q one starts with 8E0, and the MK1 starts with 171 but the rest of the numbers are the same, xxx 199 339. crazy.... i bet they are they same.
http://www.034motorsport.com/product_in ... ucts_id=53
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WAUG0806
Very nice! I doubt you will need a snub mount.
I've got about 250 4-5000 rpm autocross launches on my CQ (Hoosier Slicks) with the Mustang Mounts and Porsche 911 motor Mounts instead of trans mounts... it has a similar snub mount insert... think mine is Ford Focus rear suspension bush, just clamped solid to the front cross member with a muffler clamp!
Motor never falls out :wink:
Attachment ( 14677 ) : cheap_snub.JPG
I've got about 250 4-5000 rpm autocross launches on my CQ (Hoosier Slicks) with the Mustang Mounts and Porsche 911 motor Mounts instead of trans mounts... it has a similar snub mount insert... think mine is Ford Focus rear suspension bush, just clamped solid to the front cross member with a muffler clamp!
Motor never falls out :wink:
Attachment ( 14677 ) : cheap_snub.JPG
- speeding-g60
- Posts: 2152
- Joined: Fri Mar 01, 2013 10:46 am
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Longitudinal
- Posts: 107
- Joined: Sun Mar 03, 2013 1:29 am
Aaron, glad to see you gusseted the mount. I would have gusseted both, but they will probably be plenty strong.
Regarding the snub, it shouldn't be necessary. I have been considering alternately a rigid front mount I will weld into the front crossmember that I haven't built yet, or a Subaru dog-bone style mount along the bell housing flange, or nothing at all. I'd like to have some more support against the engine's tendency to lift at the front, but if everything is solid, I wonder if it's really necessary.
Regarding the snub, it shouldn't be necessary. I have been considering alternately a rigid front mount I will weld into the front crossmember that I haven't built yet, or a Subaru dog-bone style mount along the bell housing flange, or nothing at all. I'd like to have some more support against the engine's tendency to lift at the front, but if everything is solid, I wonder if it's really necessary.
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fasterthenrs2
- speeding-g60
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