
Aarons Drag CQ: 3-29 anodized and welded stuff. AN lines
- speeding-g60
- Posts: 2152
- Joined: Fri Mar 01, 2013 10:46 am
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Wizard-of-OD
- speeding-g60
- Posts: 2152
- Joined: Fri Mar 01, 2013 10:46 am
- speeding-g60
- Posts: 2152
- Joined: Fri Mar 01, 2013 10:46 am
been workin on stuff....
got the AWIC system finalized.
got the engine bay painted up all nice and pretty. was all black. then Derek comes by to pick up the TIG machine and brings a good point to the table; lighter colors set things off and make it brighter and easier to see. A LA rally car stylez.... also can spot stuff like leaks easier against a lighter backdrop as well.
have more stuff completed, just not pictured yet. floor of car will be black. interior silver. bay silver. cage and tube work dark bronze.....


and of course, my little shop helper.... he helps me FROM getting stuff done...

got the AWIC system finalized.
got the engine bay painted up all nice and pretty. was all black. then Derek comes by to pick up the TIG machine and brings a good point to the table; lighter colors set things off and make it brighter and easier to see. A LA rally car stylez.... also can spot stuff like leaks easier against a lighter backdrop as well.
have more stuff completed, just not pictured yet. floor of car will be black. interior silver. bay silver. cage and tube work dark bronze.....


and of course, my little shop helper.... he helps me FROM getting stuff done...

- speeding-g60
- Posts: 2152
- Joined: Fri Mar 01, 2013 10:46 am
oh yeah, forgot. the prop valve is mounted and plumbed in, as well. found some slick little 1/8" npt male (for the Wilwood valve) to 10mm european standard bubble flare socket adapters. can have for straight or 90 degree. made that part super easy to accomplish.
also put on the tabs for my strut tower bar. DOM tubing is in the mail. using some spare 5/8" Heims ends i have. i ordered extras, or changed my mind on something i guess. and spare stuff does not hurt anyways....
also, i ran the AWIC pump, it flows really well for what it is. ran thru the core and back to res. i like it.
also put on the tabs for my strut tower bar. DOM tubing is in the mail. using some spare 5/8" Heims ends i have. i ordered extras, or changed my mind on something i guess. and spare stuff does not hurt anyways....
also, i ran the AWIC pump, it flows really well for what it is. ran thru the core and back to res. i like it.
- speeding-g60
- Posts: 2152
- Joined: Fri Mar 01, 2013 10:46 am
finally did the complete front suspension/brakes/spindles, etc. COMPLETED. (except for pass front axle, i forgot it HAHA). once i toss in the welded diff, driveline, and clutch slave line, the drivetrain is COMPLETED. still have to replace all the bolts for the subframe and control arms with new. and make the spacer for the rear tie rods. torque the axles studs/nuts too.
made new brake lines for both front sides. bled brakes in ~15 minutes maybe? Motive and Speedi-bleeders rock. yes they surely do.
wired in the "Aaron-harness" to the relay panel. checked functions of switches for operation. all is well.


made new brake lines for both front sides. bled brakes in ~15 minutes maybe? Motive and Speedi-bleeders rock. yes they surely do.
wired in the "Aaron-harness" to the relay panel. checked functions of switches for operation. all is well.


do i smell a race brewing, 4 vs 5 20vT battle? come on do it
24v-VR6T-CQ BEAST http://www.theprojectpad.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=193#p37887
16v-ABA-T VEMS O1E ETC 4Kq http://www.theprojectpad.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=201#p38264
16v-ABA-T VEMS O1E ETC 4Kq http://www.theprojectpad.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=201#p38264
- audifreakjim
- Posts: 2142
- Joined: Sun Mar 03, 2013 3:00 pm
- speeding-g60
- Posts: 2152
- Joined: Fri Mar 01, 2013 10:46 am
audifreakjim wrote:Isn't there a 6" from the firewall rule for fuel pressure regulators? I got dinged for it at the strip one day. I never looked up the rule, but check it out.
NHRA Gen Regs Rulebook wrote:[/quote]
1:5 FUEL SYSTEMS
Location: All fuel tanks, lines, pumps, valves, etc. must be outside
of the driver’s compartment and within the confines of the frame
and/or steel body. Cool cans, fuel-distribution blocks, etc. must be
located at least 6 inches forward of the flywheel/bellhousing area
on rear-wheel-drive (RWD) cars, and on opposite side of
flywheel/bellhousing area on front-wheel-drive (FWD) cars. Fuelpressure-
gauge isolators, with steel-braided line, may be mounted
on firewall.[/quote]
so the way i read it is that if it has SS braided lines its ok. they do not have ruling on an AWD car there.... but it says forward of the FW/bellhousing area on RWD, which we can "say" would most be like our setups.
with the experiences i have with NHRA, if they "specifically say it" cant be done, then it cant be done. but if they dont "specifically" say it, then its fair game where common sense prevails....
i guess we will see when i go to run it... thanks for thinkin of me
and FWIW, the rabbit FPR is on the trans side of the car and i have never encountered anything about it.
but i am gonna look deeper into it for sure.... *EDIT* i could find nothing that may prevent me from running it the way it is. but if needed, i could change it around pretty quick. seems someone ordered about 20 fittings extra when he designed the fuel system :slap: (DUMBASS!!!)
Location: All fuel tanks, lines, pumps, valves, etc. must be outside
of the driver’s compartment and within the confines of the frame
and/or steel body. Cool cans, fuel-distribution blocks, etc. must be
located at least 6 inches forward of the flywheel/bellhousing area
on rear-wheel-drive (RWD) cars, and on opposite side of
flywheel/bellhousing area on front-wheel-drive (FWD) cars. Fuelpressure-
gauge isolators, with steel-braided line, may be mounted
on firewall.[/quote]
so the way i read it is that if it has SS braided lines its ok. they do not have ruling on an AWD car there.... but it says forward of the FW/bellhousing area on RWD, which we can "say" would most be like our setups.
with the experiences i have with NHRA, if they "specifically say it" cant be done, then it cant be done. but if they dont "specifically" say it, then its fair game where common sense prevails....
i guess we will see when i go to run it... thanks for thinkin of me

and FWIW, the rabbit FPR is on the trans side of the car and i have never encountered anything about it.
but i am gonna look deeper into it for sure.... *EDIT* i could find nothing that may prevent me from running it the way it is. but if needed, i could change it around pretty quick. seems someone ordered about 20 fittings extra when he designed the fuel system :slap: (DUMBASS!!!)
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subvertdesign
- speeding-g60
- Posts: 2152
- Joined: Fri Mar 01, 2013 10:46 am
thanks all.... i try and work on it in some fashion each day.
my welder buddy just finished this up for me. the coolant housing off the end of the head is plastic from factory and i do not need all the ports nor do i use factory style sensors. so we made one up using a 42dd flange and some other parts/bungs to suit my needs. this guy can weld, too....



my welder buddy just finished this up for me. the coolant housing off the end of the head is plastic from factory and i do not need all the ports nor do i use factory style sensors. so we made one up using a 42dd flange and some other parts/bungs to suit my needs. this guy can weld, too....



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a_CQ
Ha! Nice! I need a similar water neck work myself...
Where did you find those 1/8npt to 10mm adapters?? I looked everywhere and in the end Brendan@Apikol had some machined...I don't need them any more but it'd be good to know for others too, I guess.
Also, have you used those Speedy bleeders before and if so how often? Will they stand to say once a month bleeding?
Where did you find those 1/8npt to 10mm adapters?? I looked everywhere and in the end Brendan@Apikol had some machined...I don't need them any more but it'd be good to know for others too, I guess.
Also, have you used those Speedy bleeders before and if so how often? Will they stand to say once a month bleeding?
- speeding-g60
- Posts: 2152
- Joined: Fri Mar 01, 2013 10:46 am
they are off the shelf by CNC.... for the brake fitting adapts.
the speedi-Bleeders i am new to, but i surmise they would be good for it. thats what they made them for. fast bleeding. use those with the Motive setup, its cake.
http://www.pacificcustoms.com/mm5/merch ... gory_Code=
http://www.doghouserepair.com/store/item/1674
http://www.doghouserepair.com/store/item/9114
the speedi-Bleeders i am new to, but i surmise they would be good for it. thats what they made them for. fast bleeding. use those with the Motive setup, its cake.
http://www.pacificcustoms.com/mm5/merch ... gory_Code=
http://www.doghouserepair.com/store/item/1674
http://www.doghouserepair.com/store/item/9114
- speeding-g60
- Posts: 2152
- Joined: Fri Mar 01, 2013 10:46 am
still dinkin around.
got the SM4 harness almost completely installed.... just gotta figure the VSS and the TPS. the TPS i am just going to mimic the rabbit, its the same thing there. VSS not so much. everything else is plug and play.

and my strut bar is completed. i like to use things i have laying around first, and i happened to have a few 5/8" Heims sets extra. i sold one pair right/left to another Canada MG'r awhile back to help him with ship & duty.... so i had one pair L/R left. well, its not extra anymore.
its burly, its not going anywhere. 1/4" (my favorite
) plate for the tabs, and .120 wall 1.25 DOM tube. OHHHH YEAHHHHH. finished it off with some grade 8 bolts with heavy hex nuts and structural plate washer. even if the Heim end failed it cant pull out of the mount.




got the SM4 harness almost completely installed.... just gotta figure the VSS and the TPS. the TPS i am just going to mimic the rabbit, its the same thing there. VSS not so much. everything else is plug and play.

and my strut bar is completed. i like to use things i have laying around first, and i happened to have a few 5/8" Heims sets extra. i sold one pair right/left to another Canada MG'r awhile back to help him with ship & duty.... so i had one pair L/R left. well, its not extra anymore.
its burly, its not going anywhere. 1/4" (my favorite
) plate for the tabs, and .120 wall 1.25 DOM tube. OHHHH YEAHHHHH. finished it off with some grade 8 bolts with heavy hex nuts and structural plate washer. even if the Heim end failed it cant pull out of the mount.



- speeding-g60
- Posts: 2152
- Joined: Fri Mar 01, 2013 10:46 am
oh yes, did some welding on the pass side door sill bar. its completed. will fit the door bar this week. wont put it in til its "time" to, as it sucks to work around.
and also, i think it would be sweet to triangulate the strut bar to the two bars that run off the strut tower and down to the front cross-bar. but then it would be pointless to have the Heims ends on it as it would be permanent in one place. i guess i could "set it and forget it" huh? we'll see if i get bored again LOL.
and also, i think it would be sweet to triangulate the strut bar to the two bars that run off the strut tower and down to the front cross-bar. but then it would be pointless to have the Heims ends on it as it would be permanent in one place. i guess i could "set it and forget it" huh? we'll see if i get bored again LOL.
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naudi80quattro
- speeding-g60
- Posts: 2152
- Joined: Fri Mar 01, 2013 10:46 am
unfortunately for me, i must bring this to a close for now. it will more than likely not get going anytime soon. unless someone happens to have laying around a good AEB crankshaft, not bent, not scored, not stripped, for cheap. i thought i did, but it was .006" out of round, and will be too much $$$ IMO to get fixed up to run. definitely too much $$$ just to get it going now for trials.....
i am tired tired tired of all the hurdles i have met with this project.
the latest is the motor issues. to run a tuned motor to break it in, i need to swap the crankshaft from the pink motor (auto) to my spare one (manual and BENT!!!!!). but since it is bent, i am giving up. tired of all the delays, just everything is becoming too much anymore. having to spend ~$1000 just to run a different motor for temporary to drive it at all....
and paint. the shitsack of a friend i have that WAS doing that work, decides that he is not going to finish. PLUS he kept (used mostly already for his own stuff) all of my paint supplies. ~$400+ paint and related, and even the code for my paint color i do not know. sure i can go kick his ass, but that does nothing for my car. so i get off semi cheap with never having to deal with him again.
its just one thing after the next after the next. its hot, i am tired, we will see if i find some motivation. but for now, i think screw it.
and the shitty part of this is that i lose alot of stuff as well with all these delays. i lost a year on my new harness just from not using it once. i did use the rabbit one three times, and that one is lost as well now as that car is gutted and not going back together. its stripped down past its engine harness now.
the brand new slicks i bought because this thing was SUPPOSED TO BE DONE BY JUNE 1!!!!! not being used now. just a shitty day i guess, on this side of the car game.
i am tired tired tired of all the hurdles i have met with this project.
the latest is the motor issues. to run a tuned motor to break it in, i need to swap the crankshaft from the pink motor (auto) to my spare one (manual and BENT!!!!!). but since it is bent, i am giving up. tired of all the delays, just everything is becoming too much anymore. having to spend ~$1000 just to run a different motor for temporary to drive it at all....
and paint. the shitsack of a friend i have that WAS doing that work, decides that he is not going to finish. PLUS he kept (used mostly already for his own stuff) all of my paint supplies. ~$400+ paint and related, and even the code for my paint color i do not know. sure i can go kick his ass, but that does nothing for my car. so i get off semi cheap with never having to deal with him again.
its just one thing after the next after the next. its hot, i am tired, we will see if i find some motivation. but for now, i think screw it.
and the shitty part of this is that i lose alot of stuff as well with all these delays. i lost a year on my new harness just from not using it once. i did use the rabbit one three times, and that one is lost as well now as that car is gutted and not going back together. its stripped down past its engine harness now.
the brand new slicks i bought because this thing was SUPPOSED TO BE DONE BY JUNE 1!!!!! not being used now. just a shitty day i guess, on this side of the car game.
Wow Aaron, I knew that the wall happens to most everyone, but I thought that you were immune. You don't know how many times I have just shook my head and wondered how you do it. DON'T stop now!! Step back from it for awhile, but don't stop. I've really enjoyed keeping up on this build and would hate to see it go, but I know the feeling and nobody likes beating their head up against the wall and get nothing in return. Hang in there.
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Hybrid_Hatch

