Loxxrider's 200 20v Revver: See you on "The Project Pad"

loxxrider · Post by **loxxrider** » Wed Jul 15, 2009 8:12 pm

OK cool, that makes me feel 100x better.

So what exactly has to be removed to get these out? Forgive me, I totally forget how this is setup (even tho I just took it all apart a few weeks ago).

and I can just get a new boot right?

V8QinNJ · Post by **V8QinNJ** » Thu Jul 16, 2009 3:58 am

Big nut in outter joint, all the bolts on the inner. Tap the inner out of the flange move it toward the rear of the car and up. That, combind with turning the wheel will give you enough room to pull the while axle out, without undoing anything else.

Then it's simple disassembly of the joint from the shaft.

cuatrokoop · Post by **cuatrokoop** » Thu Jul 16, 2009 4:58 am

Correct! I think the 200q20v outer CV is the one that has a retainer clip that you have to remove (square profile like a C-clip), whereas the B3-B5, C5 and others you just force the joint over the retaining clip (round profile).

Yes, the boot is available. It's the joint that isn't. So, take care of the joint...

loxxrider · Post by **loxxrider** » Thu Jul 16, 2009 6:59 am

oh ok, so I am actually pulling the axle out and just kinda moving the suspension around while its all bolted up still to achieve this?

Do you kinda have to pry the axle out? Or do the bolts just hold it in? I have done like 5 axles now, but never this kind. I've done fords and Hondas now where you just kinda pry it out, and then to get it back in you just push and it stays because of an internal clip.

loxxrider · Post by **loxxrider** » Thu Jul 16, 2009 3:55 pm

yesssssssssssssss

i got my maf back, and of course the car runs a LOT better. It hesitates a good deal on acceleration though sometimes. I am assuming it just needs a new set of plugs or just needs to get used to having a maf or something.

drove the car around for like 10 minutes and didnt have any grease anywhere haha so I guess my silicone is working for now!

cuatrokoop · Post by **cuatrokoop** » Thu Jul 16, 2009 6:50 pm

loxxrider wrote:oh ok, so I am actually pulling the axle out and just kinda moving the suspension around while its all bolted up still to achieve this?

Do you kinda have to pry the axle out? Or do the bolts just hold it in? I have done like 5 axles now, but never this kind. I've done fords and Hondas now where you just kinda pry it out, and then to get it back in you just push and it stays because of an internal clip.

You can't (don't) move the suspension. With the wheel turned, there is enough room to get the axle out. I get the inner CV out of the drive cup with the wheel straight IIRC, then crank the wheel and either pull or gently tap the stub out of the hub. Helps if you don't have any heat shields installed (my 016 didn't have them, don't know about a proper 200q transmission?).

loxxrider · Post by **loxxrider** » Thu Jul 16, 2009 7:57 pm

ah ok cool. Im sure its just one of those things that I will understand once I take it apart

Good to know, thanks so much for your help so far with everything! Its very much appreciated.

I tried fitting my door panels today and to my surprise they *almost* fit!

Basically the speakers fit perfectly within the space the door panels allow in every direction except axially with the speaker...aka the door panel has a 2" gap because the speaker enclosure comes is two inches more towards the center of the car (if the door was closed).

So all i have to do is cut a hole in the door panels to the size of the speaker. I should be able to make it look pretty nice/OEM-ish. It will take some work for sure though. I'm just glad I dont have to do any serious cutting or anything!

We will see what I come up with. Seems a lot less complicated than I thought it would be though!

Throwing a new set of plugs in in the morning provided I can find some. What is the exact model I should run for stock 3B again? I know the stock plugs, but what is the copper equivalent? Do you guys like BKR7E's or what?

cuatrokoop · Post by **cuatrokoop** » Fri Jul 17, 2009 5:19 am

Well, people have been running F6DTC's in mod'd 20vt's, which is the stock 7A plug. Copper tri-electrode. There is an NGK equivalent, but I can't remember what it is. Do a search on the Bosch number and it will come up.

123quattro · Post by **123quattro** » Fri Jul 17, 2009 5:44 am

I run the stock plug. For some reason that's the only version I don't get misfire with. I don't know why my car thinks it's so special and demands $15 plugs.

loxxrider · Post by **loxxrider** » Fri Jul 17, 2009 7:01 am

i think im going to pick up bkr6es plugs. They are cheap and should get the job more than done.

my2000apb · Post by **my2000apb** » Fri Jul 17, 2009 7:48 am

wait!!!

my2000apb · Post by **my2000apb** » Fri Jul 17, 2009 7:49 am

cuatrokoop wrote:Well, people have been running F6DTC's in mod'd 20vt's, which is the stock 7A plug. Copper tri-electrode. There is an NGK equivalent, but I can't remember what it is. Do a search on the Bosch number and it will come up.

:stupid: :stupid: :stupid: so are javad and derek saying this is the 20vt plug, so ha thats a strong jury

Post by **Marc** » Fri Jul 17, 2009 7:51 am

me too. I run the FR6DTC in my S6 and the v8 coupe (dont forget the 'R', the resistor seems to be needed to prevent electrical noise).

loxxrider · Post by **loxxrider** » Fri Jul 17, 2009 7:52 am

haha so dont get bkr6es?

yodasfro · Post by **yodasfro** » Fri Jul 17, 2009 7:52 am

BCPR6ET which is = to Fr6dtc
http://www.spark-plugs.co.uk/pages/tech ... b-w4e2.htm

my2000apb · Post by **my2000apb** » Fri Jul 17, 2009 7:54 am

a4kquattro wrote:me too. I run the FR6DTC in my S6 and the v8 coupe (dont forget the 'R', the resistor seems to be needed to prevent electrical noise).

what car did the R version come in?

loxxrider · Post by **loxxrider** » Fri Jul 17, 2009 7:59 am

ew the local FLAPS has autolite fr6dtc's...

i was under the impression that autolite = yuck

my2000apb · Post by **my2000apb** » Fri Jul 17, 2009 8:07 am

autolite wtf? um bosch

loxxrider · Post by **loxxrider** » Fri Jul 17, 2009 8:09 am

ya well thats what he came up with when I said fr6dtc lol

my2000apb · Post by **my2000apb** » Fri Jul 17, 2009 8:10 am

hahah sure dif cmpanies make plugs to same "exacting" spec but are there differences? um imho im not sure but bosch is too cool for nascar so that wins it for me

loxxrider · Post by **loxxrider** » Fri Jul 17, 2009 8:12 am

i honestly just want something to run on for now and it not sputter. I have some regular old single electrode ones in there now that have worked fine for the past few months until it started running retarded rich because of no MAF driving for a day.

my2000apb · Post by **my2000apb** » Fri Jul 17, 2009 8:14 am

im running the non R f6dtc and although it hasnt been flogged runs very smooth, ill report back LATER TODAY WHEN IM DRIVING AGAIN hhahahha wooooooot

loxxrider · Post by **loxxrider** » Fri Jul 17, 2009 8:29 am

ok well im off on a search for fr6dtc or bcpr6et

speak now or forever hold your peace!!!!!!!!!!!

my2000apb · Post by **my2000apb** » Fri Jul 17, 2009 8:38 am

see id go with the fR6dtc or f6dtc either way they are nice and cheap get a few sets

loxxrider · Post by **loxxrider** » Fri Jul 17, 2009 8:41 am

well pep boys is retarded and needs an application for the plugs..so any idea what fr6dtc's came in?