Hanks URQ 2.6L Autopsy
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Jonathan
I just faced the flange myself. The headflange is warped really bad. I would consider buying a headflange that isnt a square piece with holes in it, and weld it on the runners. I will do it like that next time.
the turbo inlet flange sucks too becuase it is not threaded. THey are thru holes. It is hard to keep gaskets and hardware tight with studs. You would be dreaming to do it with bolts.
THe T4 lends itself to a radial collector more than the t3's rectangle. Cut it and weld to the collector and call it a day.
As for the wastegate, I just loped off the audi flange, and welded on a tial flange. Just that easy.
HTH.
the turbo inlet flange sucks too becuase it is not threaded. THey are thru holes. It is hard to keep gaskets and hardware tight with studs. You would be dreaming to do it with bolts.
THe T4 lends itself to a radial collector more than the t3's rectangle. Cut it and weld to the collector and call it a day.
As for the wastegate, I just loped off the audi flange, and welded on a tial flange. Just that easy.
HTH.
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fasterthenrs2
I am thinking that the 01e will require a new clutch anyway, and I will probably make a flywheel for a tilton setup. For now, I just hope the 3 plus can hold atleast 25psi with the 35r. I told Jim that I will buy him lunch in November if he can break my 016
Darin, did you balance the flywheel seperate from the rotating assembly? Mine is right now, so a new flywheel that is balanced should keep everything perfect.
Dave, the crackpipe is amazing. I need to sell my s6. I havnt driven it since I got the uRQ on the road. The weather is gorgeous for window down cruising..
E85 for life!!!!
Darin, did you balance the flywheel seperate from the rotating assembly? Mine is right now, so a new flywheel that is balanced should keep everything perfect.Dave, the crackpipe is amazing. I need to sell my s6. I havnt driven it since I got the uRQ on the road. The weather is gorgeous for window down cruising..
E85 for life!!!!
Hopefully some progress soon. I have been gathering parts for a new chapter in the URQ life. I finally have my lab all setup for getting work done, and recently I got a lift off a local classified for a good price. I am excited to work on the car again. I have not addressed a bunch of things that require crawling under the car on jackstands. The car has a 35r breathing down a 3" downpipe into a rusty, crappy exhaust shop 2.5" exhaust that goes into 2.25 over the rear diff and into a Dynomax muffler with holes and then into an obnoxious 3.5" exit tip that hangs too low. That is how much I hate going under the car.


The rear diff mount has been bad for some time, and the rear brakes hardly dont do anything lately. The subframe bushings are rotten and the ebrake barely works. I also need to upgrade my fuel system at somepoint running e85 with 1000cc injectors. It looks fun now. I will probably just double up some CIS pumps from a surge tank.
I got some urS rear 280mm x 20mm vented rear disks and just need to get some 4kq ebrakes stuff to make that work. I also need to figure out how to make 130mm cups fit into the later 4piece 4.11 dif housing wihtout going torsen.
On the transmission front, it only has 3 forward gears now, as 2nd and 3rd are stripped pretty much clean. 2nd went first, so I skipped it for a couple of weeks just having fun driving the car around. Now 3rd is gone and it sounds like rocks are in there at idle.
So I got a couple of 01e trannies that are on the shelf waiting for use. I have an 016 torsen as well, but the spec 3+ really doesnt hold the 35r above 24pounds and I dont want to ruin that tranny as the 4kq could really use it soon. Marc Swanson hooked it up with the southbend Stage5 beasty clutch, and I am tooling up to make some mounts. In a quest for more room in front of the motor, I am going to move everything back that 13mm that the 01e length provides.
I also have the itch to build a header for this car from scratch using the tial stainless housing, so my current setup is for sale. I want 600 for the header/downpipe/wastegate adapter reworked with new flanges and a flycut headflange. The downpipe is 3" with v-bands on both sides. I also went into the collector and cleaned up some of the crappy welds that this header comes with. You get the downpipe and wastegate adpater that makes this a plug and play for anybody running a 3071r 30r or 35r with a v-band exit. The header has treated me well, and made great power. It has provisions for an EGT. The flanges are really flat. I do not run gaskets on the t3 inlet and have no leaks of any kind. I have never lost a single bolt with this setup.
A couple of pictures of it.



I am stoked for the new firmware to come out, and hopefully I will be tearing up the canyon this spring!! I really want to run low elevens/high 10s on snows this spring


The rear diff mount has been bad for some time, and the rear brakes hardly dont do anything lately. The subframe bushings are rotten and the ebrake barely works. I also need to upgrade my fuel system at somepoint running e85 with 1000cc injectors. It looks fun now. I will probably just double up some CIS pumps from a surge tank.
I got some urS rear 280mm x 20mm vented rear disks and just need to get some 4kq ebrakes stuff to make that work. I also need to figure out how to make 130mm cups fit into the later 4piece 4.11 dif housing wihtout going torsen.
On the transmission front, it only has 3 forward gears now, as 2nd and 3rd are stripped pretty much clean. 2nd went first, so I skipped it for a couple of weeks just having fun driving the car around. Now 3rd is gone and it sounds like rocks are in there at idle.
So I got a couple of 01e trannies that are on the shelf waiting for use. I have an 016 torsen as well, but the spec 3+ really doesnt hold the 35r above 24pounds and I dont want to ruin that tranny as the 4kq could really use it soon. Marc Swanson hooked it up with the southbend Stage5 beasty clutch, and I am tooling up to make some mounts. In a quest for more room in front of the motor, I am going to move everything back that 13mm that the 01e length provides. I also have the itch to build a header for this car from scratch using the tial stainless housing, so my current setup is for sale. I want 600 for the header/downpipe/wastegate adapter reworked with new flanges and a flycut headflange. The downpipe is 3" with v-bands on both sides. I also went into the collector and cleaned up some of the crappy welds that this header comes with. You get the downpipe and wastegate adpater that makes this a plug and play for anybody running a 3071r 30r or 35r with a v-band exit. The header has treated me well, and made great power. It has provisions for an EGT. The flanges are really flat. I do not run gaskets on the t3 inlet and have no leaks of any kind. I have never lost a single bolt with this setup.
A couple of pictures of it.



I am stoked for the new firmware to come out, and hopefully I will be tearing up the canyon this spring!! I really want to run low elevens/high 10s on snows this spring

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200 Avant
I may have some questions for you regarding your 01E swap. I'm headed in that direction as well on my UrQ. Actually I think our cars are headed in the same direction in a lot of ways 

Marc Swanson
Proprietor, EFI Motorsport
Proprietor, EFI Motorsport
ShavedQuattro wrote:want me to start making twos of everything Marc?
sure!
wait, too late, you already are

Your mention of moving the engine back a bit got me thinking. IIRC the O1E is overall a "longer" transmission right? usually people swap in a 4kq propshaft to make up the difference in length, but that might be the same length as a UrQ shaft, I haven't measured. Whats the plan there given the engine setback and 01E fitment?
Marc Swanson
Proprietor, EFI Motorsport
Proprietor, EFI Motorsport
No, the 01e is shorter by about 13mm. Peoploe usually get the rs2 intermediate plate, make a spacer between the driveshaft and the tranny ouput flange or make mounts to move things back. I am choosing the latter. I do not know the length o the URQ shaft, but I would bet that it is identical to the 4kq unit as they are using the same rear diff and 016 tranny, same motor mounts, exc.
I plan on just making tranny mounts, and then trying to slot the stock engine mounts. If they still wont play nicely, I will probably just fab new engine mounts as well. If you get too far backward, you start running into problems with the rack hitting the tranny and driveshafts hitting the subframe. I think 13mm can be had very easily are retain everyhing. 13mm doesnt seem like a lot, but that is the difference in running a 2.5" IC core or a 3" core and being able to run it down past the harmonic balancer.
I plan on just making tranny mounts, and then trying to slot the stock engine mounts. If they still wont play nicely, I will probably just fab new engine mounts as well. If you get too far backward, you start running into problems with the rack hitting the tranny and driveshafts hitting the subframe. I think 13mm can be had very easily are retain everyhing. 13mm doesnt seem like a lot, but that is the difference in running a 2.5" IC core or a 3" core and being able to run it down past the harmonic balancer.

