Hanks URQ 2.6L Autopsy

[cuatrokoop]

If I had the time, I'd pull the flanges out of one of my 5k's...But I don't, unfortunately.

[Hank]

Well, dont kill yourselves!! I have a buddy with an s4 nearly all stripped out in the garage a few blocks down, I just thought that ifsomebody had gone torsen, and still had the old cups layin around, it would be easy to talk them otu of them and keep this s4 diff in tact.

Very Nice of you guysthough. Thanks

[glibobbo21]

haha you need 5k cups!!! i got a 5k rear diff out of an 89 20vt??

[Jonathan]

Hank, I have three T44 rear lockers. Could that help you?

[Quattro v1.0]

Im going to put this back on track...

Hank, paint it GOBI ;o]

[glibobbo21]

I think Alpine white is a really nice color for URQ's and 4k's with the right accents, especially a fresh job!

[ralleyquattro]

quattro v1.0 wrote:[/quote]

Im going to put this back on track...

Hank, paint it GOBI ;o][/quote]

I like Gobi, it was my first Audi, 1982 Coupe... that color grows on you.
Not to mention you can go two years without washing it BTDT, does not show dirt at all... mud just blends in..

[zarati]

How about this color???'
Or....
Maybe NOT!

Attachment ( 20429 ) : Q-FRONT.JPG

[zarati]

I still vote for Charcoal or even Silver if the Charcoal is to dark for you.
Followed by one of the Blues. Or White.
I personally find GOBI kinda ... Boring. Reminds me of that Camry color.
:-)

[germantoy]

hank i had a guy shoot a test panel of grey today off the new camaros. Its pretty bad ass and covers well and has a really nice metalic to it.

if you want to color code let me know

[nismo]

My first car was an 82 Gobi 4k. Got washed a couple times in the 5 years I had it. Never washed, never waxed. Looked good minus the rust spots.

Eric

[quattro87]

With Gobi I'm surprised that you could even see the rust.

[Hank]

I kindof like that color. I this stone Gray?

This is I believe



Black is fast, but I Vegas and Black dont match at all. If I didnt have to wash it myself,paint it myself and had AC, black it would be..

Can somebody confirm if htis is the same color, and if it is, what color/code is it? I think it is the winner.

[85oceanic]

I think the 4kq is darker. At least it looks it to me. Maybe really close to Dolphin grey on the 4kq.

FYI: Dophin grey code is LX7Z from what I have read.

Like this lil guy:

[Quattro v1.0]

I like the darker of the grey's Hank

[Hank]

Darker the grey, and it starts to run into the same problem as black.. Hard to paint, hard to maintain and hot.

I do not want a garage queen. I want to drive it on big road trips, do track events and rip past 18 wheelers without getting the hebbie jeebies.
Hopefully the white strips off very easily. I have messed around with paint stripper a bit and it takes that 2mm of white crap off quite nicely. Hopefully I can get it down to port rose and just spray over that.

[Quattro v1.0]

Is that grey on the TT or the 4K reasonable?

The UrQ is called Stone grey, and the TT and the 4K appear to be Dolphin.

[Audilard]

When is the painting happening?

[Dave]

I love the gray. I fully support you.

[Hank]

Soon hopefully. I got a bunch of projects that take priority, but after they clear up... I am going to Fremont at the end of May for a dyno session with the 034 boys. I want to roll the fenders slightly by then and lay some paint on it. I probably will not go uber crazy on the paint, as evenutally I want to scrap the undercoating, add underbody support to stiffen up the car. I spend time making the body straight and then put a quick spray job on to keep it from rusting/corroding till I have the time to strip the car down to the frame. I really want to get fiberglass fenders and hood too, so It seems a waste to spend too much time painting those really nice.

I could paint it with a paint brush and end up with a better job. It is that bad right now.

[Hank]

Well I have been running the 35r for the last 5k miles or so. It took out my 016 in fast order. So I have been driving it around wihtout a second gear for a couple of months, enjoying the great weather. I have been itching to build a new header for a while. My old Ebay piece was a nice manifold, but I hated when people looked at the car and asked if I made the header too, and I could not claim it.

So I decided to make a new one. I have always been wanting to do a v-band inlet like Matts(lowlyoilburner), and he just fueled the fire with his build. I have been finishing the semester with little to no time, but I did get a couple of hours this week to dink around with a new header. I was hoping to finish up this afternooon, or weekend, but between finals, and my sister having a baby, I dont think it will happen.

I spent a the majority of the time makign it equal length. All the runners are at 9.5" plus or minus an eighth of an inch or so. Schedule 10 304 pipe with 1018 head flange. So I will be running the 35r still with the tial housing, and I am sending the turbo in to Forced Performance to get a billet HTA wheel put on. They advertise 400rpm faster spool up with the billet wheel, and Tial advertises more power and slightly faster spool with their housing. I am hoping to get power down to the 4500rpm range down from 4900 I am seeing now. If I can get the same power with that spool up, I will be a happy camper. The HTA35r is suppose to flow 7lbs/min more air as well so I hope that with e85, I can make around 600whp with this setup, reving to 8500. That will give me a fat 4k of nasty power.


So I want to go to Javad's shop on the 27th of May for a dyno session and enjoy the bay area with my wife. Here is the list of things I need to get done to make it happen..

Header and downpipe built
-EGT bung
- Lathe out flanges for wastegate
-get tial clamp

Turbo brace

Radiator recore.

Front suspension
- cut delrin front control arm bushings
- either cut new
-Front subframe mods
- Holesaw subframe mounts to allow for more caster
-waterjet out sliders to be welded in
-Seam weld the subframe.
-Repaint

Engine mods
- Swap head for Darin's rebuilt head
-inspect pistons
- deck the valve cover flat
-

01e needs
- weld in provisions for pilot bearing
- order new pressure plate surface if damaged
- make passenger side rs2 replica mount
- get slave cylinder
- make fitting for slave cylinder
- modify linkage

016 torsen needs
- Change fluid??
- use Southbend pressure plate

Rear Diff needs
- Change fluid
- exchange cups from s4
- install rear diff mount in polly

Rear suspension
- Remove entire assembly
- seam weld subframe
- press out old subframe mounts
- install aluminum subframe mounts
- inspect ball joints and rear links
-

Exhaust in Aluminum
-Make muffler
- Order perforations
- decide on material thickness
- spin 5 v-band ferules for exhaust
-order 3" tubing

Monitoring needs
-Order Vapor module
- Mount speedometer
-Figure out tach input
- Fuel gauge
- make custom dash
- Wideband 02
-EGT
- Get probe as well
-coolant
-Oil temp
-oil pressure
-Boost gauge
-Volts

Iic upgrade
- get new firmware
-Wire in WB into ECU

E85 needs
- Make surge tank
- Decide on fuel pumps to use
- Order -10 line or tube
- Make tank to surge tank in big -12 feed
- Wire relays for fuel pump

Interior Needs
- transfer script interior for black seat
- get a hold of a black rear seat

[Dave]

Hank i Have a rear black quattro script seat in my garage, from a 4k...

and are you really planning on having all this done by the end of May? damn!

[Audilard]

That's purdy.

[a_CQ]

and are you really planning on having all this done by the end of May? damn!

Good luck.

But I like what I see so far on that header.

[Hank]

I may sacrifice the 016 in the name of a deadline. I dont want to, and feeding it to the 35r, is just that.. BUT, I do not think I will have time to figure out axles, linkage and change my flywheel/balance it before then. If I do the 016, it will be plug and play. I'll use the new firmward to limit boost in 1st and second gear to save the 2nd gearset.

I would like to paint it as well prior, but I doubt that will happen as well.