Darin's 80q…Alive...

[mushasho]

Single 044 pump with -8 lines.

So the pump is maxed out... is that at 3bar or 4bar base?... and what did you use for the sender banjo bolt? Regular barbed fitting or a -8an end fitting?...

[Audilard]

Good question on base pressure. I don't have a gauge on my fpr. We are using -8 steel end fittings that have been bored out to increase flow.

[Hank]

It is 4 bar. One interesting note on Darin's car, I noticed that the 12mm threads coming out of the 044 and also the oem filter were very small in aluminum( around .185" so I bored them out to .280" when we first did the install. We had pressure drop bad at around 440whp, but I was able to throw Duty Cylce at it to get it to make 470whp. Well, on this last revision, I replaced those fittings with steel versions I was more comfortable boring out more, and I was able to get around .318" of a hole. This made almost 40whp more headroom on the pump. At 485whp, it was just barely starting to drop pressure at 7000 rpm. This changes my recommendation on 044s now to saying 400whp with the oem check on e85, 425whp with aluminum fittings, 460whp with steel, then around 480 with a bored out steel. I think it could even go up to .340ish, but that is only around .020" worth of wall on 12x1mm bolt at that point. Probably best to keep it safe at around .030.

[themagellan]

It is 4 bar. One interesting note on Darin's car, I noticed that the 12mm threads coming out of the 044 and also the oem filter were very small in aluminum( around .185" so I bored them out to .280" when we first did the install. We had pressure drop bad at around 440whp, but I was able to throw Duty Cylce at it to get it to make 470whp. Well, on this last revision, I replaced those fittings with steel versions I was more comfortable boring out more, and I was able to get around .318" of a hole. This made almost 40whp more headroom on the pump. At 485whp, it was just barely starting to drop pressure at 7000 rpm. This changes my recommendation on 044s now to saying 400whp with the oem check on e85, 425whp with aluminum fittings, 460whp with steel, then around 480 with a bored out steel. I think it could even go up to .340ish, but that is only around .020" worth of wall on 12x1mm bolt at that point. Probably best to keep it safe at around .030.

[Audilard]

484whp and 440wtq is presenting a whole new set of issues and challenges for my car. The first and foremost is the amount of oil coming from the block and head that is being routed through the Provent 200 catch can. Some research has revealed that that catch can is good to about 250hp. Well I believe 484whp is a lot more than 250hp so it just can't keep up with the pressure and filtering needs. I have the outlet of the OCC going to pre-turbo as to keep the fumes down in the car. There are some decent diesel OCC setups that are capable of pressure in the 500hp range. The Racor 4500 seems to be an interesting option.


Here is the setup back to the air intake. I'm thinking the turbo is sucking more from the OCC than it is through my filter.


This is the best picture I have of the current setup. Block and valve cover connect and go into the inlet of the provent. Outlet routes to turbo. Oil drains back to block.



I'm contemplating routing the block into the head, then just have a single line from the valve cover to the OCC. But will the pressure push oil out of the valve cover gasket at a weak point. I know there are solutions out there and to each their own, but I now need one.

[Mcstiff]

:drysump:

[Audilard]

:drysump:

Not helpful.

[audifreakjim]

:Tall Deck Stroker:

[Audilard]

:Tall Deck Stroker:

[my2000apb]

hmmm, a few things, how can a catch can be rated in HP?!?!

if you think there is less resistance through the OCC line vs the air intake filter, could you run a larger filter?

something seems a bit fishy, theres a lot of cars running the Mann ProVent making more power without much issue.

the motor isn't a junk yard pull, its all fresh rings, valve seals etc so there really shouldn't be a lot of work for the catch can to do.
there shouldn't be much for fumes from the can if the motor is fresh, vs lots of fumes in an older, high mileage motor

I think youd be fine venting it atmosphere and that would take care of a lot of the issues

[scubadave]

give up now before its too late! lol

I am expecting a ride buddy. :D

[Audilard]

Don't know how it can be rated, but if you read up on them they are. According to the manufacturer anyway.

https://www.mann-hummel.com/fileadmin/u ... n_2013.pdf

The motor isn't a junkyard motor. The pistons however are 3b stock with upgraded everything else around them. Rods, mains, etc. Compression was good on all 5 cylinders. The head is built with supertech valves, retainers, valve springs. My filter on my Provent 200 is pretty full, so I ordered a new one to give that a try first.

[Mcstiff]

:drysump:

Not helpful.

http://www.sr20-forum.com/information-l ... ition.html

[alxdgr8]

All of my high power Honda friends (this one is now 600whp, picture is a bit old but the venting is the same) run a vented catchcan with lots of VC venting.

[Audilard]

Any objections to routing the block breather into the head and then 2 lines coming off the valve cover into a catch can?

[chaloux]

I need to do something about mine as well. Same-ish setup but no E85 so less power. I'm using an 034 catch can though and I ain't think it's enough.

Watching with interest

[Mcstiff]

Any objections to routing the block breather into the head and then 2 lines coming off the valve cover into a catch can?

I think it would be ok; assuming that you are not getting a ton of blow-by (as noted your engine is fresh). Let's not forget that they are connected by the oil drains but an external connection will not hurt. That said, I like the idea of dual cans ( • )( • )

[Hank]

What do you mean how can a catch can be rated in HP? Do some math of lead down vs hp. If a healthy engine is leaking down 5%(very normal and healthy) that is 5% of overall hp is getting into the crankcase. On 500whp, that is 25whp worth of air. That is basically what a stock supermotard 250cc WR250x makes. I have stood behind that motor on a dyno, and that is a shit ton of air. Also, a .5" feeder hose, or a small element is not big enough, not on a 250cc bike, or on a catch can. I think most would be surprised of how much their crank cases are being pressurized if they had a sensor monitoring that pressure.

This is why higher hp cars need lots of venting like what you see above from Alex. In the i5, the pickup off the back of the block is an awful blow hole that just pushes oil up into the catch can. The best way to vent them is by pulling off the valve cover between cam lobes with some sort of deflector, preferably in the front of the engine as to not get all the rearward slosh of oil. That 25whp worth of air has to go somewhere, so if it is being forced into the "vent" with a lot of oil, it is going to make a catch can's life a million times harder.

[Mcstiff]

Hank, didn't you log crankcase pressure in your urI5 with the valve cover venting only? Perhaps I'm being wishfully delusional.

Also,

This looks interesting, MS3 guys but the issue of too much crankcase pressure seems familiar. It seems it's be better to create vacuum in the crankcase though. Not sure why they did not just connect the filter valve to the intake.



I'd run a can between the VC and turbo inlet, one between the CC and inlet (if CC pressures require, other wise CC to VC) and a valve between the IM and OCC for idle vacuum. Actually, this is basically the stock Sr20DET system when you consider that they have an oil separator in their VC.

[my2000apb]

anyone running a small vac pump to the crankcase?

[dana]

anyone running a small vac pump to the crankcase?

i think it would have to pull a pretty damn high cfm and would thus not be very small at all.

[Hank]

034 ran one on their castrol motor that ended up in the 80tq. It was a pretty big piece, but the power gain was fantastic.

[dana]

034 ran one on their castrol motor that ended up in the 80tq. It was a pretty big piece, but the power gain was fantastic.

can you explain why there was a significant power gain? just curious.

[my2000apb]

pressure differential between either side off the piston.
a small bit of boost from below will really fight piston speed

[chaloux]

So on my valve cover there's no ports... argh. I think I probably just need MOAR VENTING. Time to do some searching