Yeah the booster is hideous. That and the brake lines need attention. still working on how to package everything. I'm not sure about that bracket, it looks like if I was to use that it would interfere with the water manifold and/or front of the AAN IM. I did find a used AAN power steering pump bracket, so that's in the mail. I look forward to getting that so I can actually see where that gets me. Another idea i've considered but need to look into is running a Serpentine belt. I have seen it done but don't know the specifics yet. either that or basically a timing belt job to get the 7A crank pulley on , if I can find the tools for it. Tomorrow ill get the intercooler fitted up and maybe get fuel lines made.
Pat, I always torque the harmonic balancer on while on the engine stand. 2 bolts in the rear installed halfway, prybar through that to jam the crank, and a jackstand under the front with a piece of wood supporting the front weight while torquing the bolt. works ok.
I'm running serp belt, wouldn't want it any other way. however, you have to run all the accessories AAN. no way around it.
I would recommend against cutting away the bumper support- it is there for some very good reasons. With what you have marked out there even a low-speed fender-bender would cause a lot of destruction, and anything high speed would be pretty catastrophic. You are adding a lot of power; keep the meager safety structures the car is equipped with.
Kirk
1990 ABZ CQ 1990 lifted CQ 2005 S4 6MT 2011 A4 2.0T Avant (ok, it's my wife's car but it's sexy and I love it)
scubadave wrote:Pat, I always torque the harmonic balancer on while on the engine stand. 2 bolts in the rear installed halfway, prybar through that to jam the crank, and a jackstand under the front with a piece of wood supporting the front weight while torquing the bolt. works ok.
I'm running serp belt, wouldn't want it any other way. however, you have to run all the accessories AAN. no way around it.
Dave, thanks for the advice! I may need to do some searching. I only have the alternator and bracket for the 7A , but I don't have the Serp belt tensioner (272.00 from the dealer) . Serp belt would be a cool setup but i'd have to find some parts to make it happen. Wish I had a parts car!! Tried absolute german in seattle and they didn't have anything.
the german wrote:I would recommend against cutting away the bumper support- it is there for some very good reasons. With what you have marked out there even a low-speed fender-bender would cause a lot of destruction, and anything high speed would be pretty catastrophic. You are adding a lot of power; keep the meager safety structures the car is equipped with.
Counterpoint, all the B3s and B4s in the rest of the World do not have the aluminium bar. Yes, the euro bumpers have a bit more structure (plastic) but it seems like a safe guess that the chassis was not designed for it to be required.
Afterthought wrote:Dave, thanks for the advice! I may need to do some searching. I only have the alternator and bracket for the 7A , but I don't have the Serp belt tensioner (272.00 from the dealer) . Serp belt would be a cool setup but i'd have to find some parts to make it happen. Wish I had a parts car!! Tried absolute german in seattle and they didn't have anything.
Search the FAQ on quattroworld for info about the tensioner. There's a NAPA model that's supposed to work, costs about $60.
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|| 2010 Golf Sportwagen TDI /// #farmenwagen || 2002 Dodge Ram 2500 24vt 4x4 #bertancummins || 1992 80 quattro 20v /// Eventual AAN'd Winter Sled || 1990 Coupe quattro /// Because Racecar
the german wrote:I would recommend against cutting away the bumper support- it is there for some very good reasons. With what you have marked out there even a low-speed fender-bender would cause a lot of destruction, and anything high speed would be pretty catastrophic. You are adding a lot of power; keep the meager safety structures the car is equipped with.
Counterpoint, all the B3s and B4s in the rest of the World do not have the aluminium bar. Yes, the euro bumpers have a bit more structure (plastic) but it seems like a safe guess that the chassis was not designed for it to be required.
Not true. Without the bumper support ("rebar") there is nothing forward of the engine to distribute load across the chassis in the even of a crash. European cars got a bumper support, it was just fixed directly to the chassis rather than to gas struts (**Edit** - I think this is the same as the NA b3 80/90 front bumper support). You can see the exposed steel bumper support in this picture of a wrecked european Audi 80:
the german wrote:I would recommend against cutting away the bumper support- it is there for some very good reasons. With what you have marked out there even a low-speed fender-bender would cause a lot of destruction, and anything high speed would be pretty catastrophic. You are adding a lot of power; keep the meager safety structures the car is equipped with.
Counterpoint, all the B3s and B4s in the rest of the World do not have the aluminium bar. Yes, the euro bumpers have a bit more structure (plastic) but it seems like a safe guess that the chassis was not designed for it to be required.
Not true. Without the bumper support ("rebar") there is nothing forward of the engine to distribute load across the chassis in the even of a crash. European cars got a bumper support, it was just fixed directly to the chassis rather than to gas struts (**Edit** - I think this is the same as the NA b3 80/90 front bumper support). You can see the exposed steel bumper support in this picture of a wrecked european Audi 80:
That's a cross member (the one in your pic looks like #21 below), all B3/B4s came with a version of one depending on engine; independent of the extra North American (Canada seems to have gotten "US" spec) impact bar housed in the unique non-"euro" bumper.
As seen here:
Attachments
B3_4_Crossmembers.JPG (100.47 KiB) Viewed 40154 times
That said, I still wouldn't run without the bumper support... but I'm rather fond of being alive and having the ability to walk so maybe I'm an outlier here.
Kirk
1990 ABZ CQ 1990 lifted CQ 2005 S4 6MT 2011 A4 2.0T Avant (ok, it's my wife's car but it's sexy and I love it)
We should not forget the large number of Europeans in wheelchairs because of the great Audi crashes of the 90s
I'm for safety but, as I mentioned, I believe the chassis was designed without the bumper bar. It's main existence was to suppord the modular US bumper which was required to meet the US requirements that minimal damage occurs in impacts <2.5mph in an effort to limit the "maximum feasible reduction of cost to the public and to the consumer" http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bumper_(automobile)#cite_note-Congressional-5
To bring this detour full circle, notching for a FMIC is not a big deal.
Kirk you do have a good point about not cutting that, but i had already cut the aluminum by the time you posted it... I do however have part #24 in the diagram Mcstiff posted, left over from an old audi 90, and it lines up with the stock mounting holes, I am thinking about modifying that to add strength. With whats left of the aluminum right now, its only two purposes are to hold the intercooler and RS2 bumper skin now. Here's how it is mounted:
This is where it will sit:
Last edited by Afterthought on Sat May 17, 2014 1:23 am, edited 1 time in total.
scubadave wrote:Pat, I always torque the harmonic balancer on while on the engine stand. 2 bolts in the rear installed halfway, prybar through that to jam the crank, and a jackstand under the front with a piece of wood supporting the front weight while torquing the bolt. works ok.
I'm running serp belt, wouldn't want it any other way. however, you have to run all the accessories AAN. no way around it.
Dave, I think you have a good idea. After looking at things I want to run the Serpentine belt for sure. It's going to be cleaner and leaves me more room for the intercooler. I had to source the brackets necessary as it turns out I didn't get them with the car. Oh well, they will be on the way from new york Via USPS. I have other things to tackle in the meantime.
Got the intercooler mocked up (above) and made some pipes for them. On the pressure side there will only be four silicone hoses which will be nice, less stuff to pop off under boost. Once everything finds its final place I wouldn't mind doing all metal with some of those Vanjen clamps or something similar and just not have to worry about hoses.
Lots of parts strewn about the shop but I'm glad the Coupe is starting to look more complete. Lots of little things to do, but It will be difficult to put off wiring any longer. I have a donor harness from my old 90 than I took a few things off of, Maf plug and such in case I need those to extend wires.
Im sure ill be close with these manuals by the end. I ordered the Bentley S6 CD only to find out it doesn't work on windows 7. AAAwesome
The only reason Ive been patient and havent finished this project faster is I have another quattro to drive
Last edited by Afterthought on Thu May 22, 2014 8:09 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Thanks Pat. I have put a lot of time an effort into my build to get the knowledge and experience to tell you what direction you may want to try. I dont claim to know the answer to everything, but I do have a lot of good ideas. THAT I know. about the wiring, Im glad you have all that room to work, I am sooo jelly. It should work out for you. just spend the time to make it right. It will all click into place and will work out very well for you. just take your time and make it right. I practiced on a 4kqt with the wiring, so I knew what I was getting into when I did my coupe. But, it worked out very nicely. Just stay with it to the end, and double check your connections.
Just keep your eyes on the prize. the juice is sooo worth the squeeze. you will find out soon enough. let me know if there is anything I can help with.
scubadave wrote:Thanks Pat. I have put a lot of time an effort into my build to get the knowledge and experience to tell you what direction you may want to try. I dont claim to know the answer to everything, but I do have a lot of good ideas. THAT I know. about the wiring, Im glad you have all that room to work, I am sooo jelly. It should work out for you. just spend the time to make it right. It will all click into place and will work out very well for you. just take your time and make it right. I practiced on a 4kqt with the wiring, so I knew what I was getting into when I did my coupe. But, it worked out very nicely. Just stay with it to the end, and double check your connections.
Just keep your eyes on the prize. the juice is sooo worth the squeeze. you will find out soon enough. let me know if there is anything I can help with.
Dave, it will work eventually and I will know alot about wiring when I'm done. One thing thats nice about a swap like this is I will really know the car which is nice for troubleshooting issues. I did have a turbo 4000 when I was 18, but I didn't do the wiring myself. It was an '84 4000 S Quattro with the Quattro script interior. Had an MC2 in it running stock ECU for spark and Megasquirt for fuel, stock turbo, RS2 Injectors. Really fun car!
the german wrote:Looking good! Is that a Baja car on the back of your intercooler mount? Also, is that one of Mike's old S4's you're driving?
Good eye! Yeah that is a small design of a Baja car, my dad was testing some things on the CNC and I got that piece of aluminum from him. This S4 is not from Mike, (Assuming you're talking about Mike From VRI, works at GiroDisc?) but he has my old Nogaro Blue 01.5 S4, the one he is putting the single turbo in. Very clean car, saw it a while back . It's going to be a hell of a car when it's done.
the german wrote:Haha thought so! and yes, that's the Mike I was talking about. Is this one stock?
Kirk, this ones pretty far from stock but it does kind of have a stock stance at least height wise, which I dont mind. The 255 tires are kind of a giveway though. It rides higher but handles better than any other s4 or audi I've had.
Started tackling wiring today. Working on deciphering what I need out of the coupe harness. Looks like some things that will need to be added to the AAN engine harness are: -some wires for the autocheck, -a vehicle speed sensor wire, -some power wires, -starter/alternator power, -the reverse plug on the trans, -quite a few little things here and there from inside the car, -...? ETC Once I have gathered what all I need from there (have it all separated from the stock CQ ECU harness) I can make that into its own separate harness- or combine it with the AAN engine harness. This one is quite difficult to approach as I havent been able to find any documentation ANYWHERE about what needs to be added to the AAN harness. However, hopefully I'll be able to track some progress and get some of it on paper for anyone doing this in the future.
Also still need to hook up fuel lines, crankcase ventilation, boost control system. I did notice there is no line into the GT3071R for reference to the N75, not sure what to do there?
Maybe shoot him a PM and ask what he came up with for the PS pump as a solution?
HTH,
Dustin.
Dustin, at this time I have the same thing going on, but it's just a stock Coupe radiator tilted like that. It will actually work OK for now but I'll have to find a very low profile fan for it. It's definitely a possibility to run like that, but I think ideal would be a thicker radiator thats not as wide, if that makes sense.
Some more work this week. All fuel lines hooked up, oil lines hooked up. Battery relocated to trunk and just used a cheap Napa batery box for now until I make a nice one I like. Using a stock oil cooler for now. (There are lots of "Nor now, until I have the money to upgrade it" things in my build. Plan is go with a Setrab oil cooler with new lines when the time come probably relocated to behind the hood grille. Still waiting on a bracket for the alternator but will be running the serpentine belt (shorter belt for non AC cars) on this setup. I think it will be cleaner that way.