FS: $4,500 Casey's 200 20v

[dana]

spotted this morning....not launching.....but looking damn good. Would bang.

[WOMBAT]

Freakin' hell - didn't see you or else I would have anti-launched it!

[WOMBAT]

Nice VC solution. No problems with oil on the "low" side of the engine where you have that crank case vent routed into the vc?

No issues as of yet and for the first time since starting to run 24psi, I'm not leaking oil from anywhere. Very strange but happy with it! My engine bay was cleaned up on Saturday and I put ~300 miles on it and its still oil free. Before, it took 1 good pull to coat it..

[dana]

once you get a drain back, sounds like you will be golden. Your exhaust looks and smells healthy enough even when on boost.

[WOMBAT]

once you get a drain back, sounds like you will be golden. Your exhaust looks and smells healthy enough even when on boost.

I'm still a little concerned given that I sometimes drop a cylinder after launch control. I suppose it could be a coil or injector or something like that. It's also strange that there was quite a lot of smoke coming out of my hood in the middle of our trek up the mountain this weekend but no oil spilling from the catch can. Means that smoke was all out of the breather.

I don't want to have to breathe all that smoke anytime I really load up the car. I keep considering putting a scavenge tube in the downpipe to blow whatever vapors out the tail pipe rather that into my intake or the cabin of the car.

[dana]

my big turbo 90 was really stinky out of the breather, I routed it down into the trans tunnel and never smelled it again. I hate the smell of breather, makes me ill. Strangely my 90 used to drop a cylinder after launch control sometimes too. I am quite sure it was ignition related, not mechanical.

[loxxrider]

My 200 used to drop a cylinder after launch control too! I always attributed it to ignition as well. Actually, I always theorized that the plugs were getting wet.

[WOMBAT]

Now that I have about 8k miles on the motor I figured it would be good to do a compression test to either help or worsen my fear with the blow by I'm experiencing.

Here are the results:

160, 160, 143, 152, 139

Could be worse I guess... Should I let the 139 and 143 bother me to the point of rebuilding?

[Dutchbroracer]

Eh I was always told you don't want to see more then a 15 psi difference between cylinders. Was this a wet or dry test? If dry, I recommend doing wet test next; then see what they come up to. Also you made sure to hold the throttle wide open during test correct?

Car looks great as usual man

[Dutchbroracer]

And wtf do you guys mean you dropped a cylinder after LC!? What was the fix for this?

[loxxrider]

Basically we mean it idles a little... Flat. As in down one cylinder. Go drive around for a minute and it comes right back.

[themagellan]

Could you be making a little more power… sure, should it constitute a full rebuild? Aw halll naw, not even close.

I would especially say no now that you seem to have your oil vapor problem finally under control. For piece of mind you should do what loxx said, but also keep these numbers drive the car often for the next two weeks then come back and do the exact same test, if the numbers look to be about the same then you can probably get a few more summers out of it (Again because it seems like your oil vapor issues are resolved) but if it seems to be more of a progressive issue (Ie those cylinders keep dropping rapidly) then yeah of course you probably need to check out whats going on, my guess is it's just the rings that were subjected to some extraordinary pressures and are maybe a little worn out.

Anyway, keep enjoying it I think that you should be more happy with such high numbers on those two cylinders and less paranoid about the low ones, I would be pretty happy to see those with the setup and abuse it see's

[themagellan]

Could you be making a little more power… sure, should it constitute a full rebuild? Aw halll naw, not even close.

I would especially say no now that you seem to have your oil vapor problem finally under control. For piece of mind you should do what loxx said, but also keep these numbers drive the car often for the next two weeks then come back and do the exact same test, if the numbers look to be about the same then you can probably get a few more summers out of it (Again because it seems like your oil vapor issues are resolved) but if it seems to be more of a progressive issue (Ie those cylinders keep dropping rapidly) then yeah of course you probably need to check out whats going on, my guess is it's just the rings that were subjected to some extraordinary pressures and are maybe a little worn out.

Anyway, keep enjoying it I think that you should be more happy with such high numbers on those two cylinders and less paranoid about the low ones, I would be pretty happy to see those with the setup and abuse it see's

Also double post as always, reading on MG one of your old posts about compression (haha) maybe you could also lay off the anti lag:

thecrow: "And btw if you running rich it will wash cylinder walls down, which will result no lubrication, rings cannot seal, which leads to low compression (many times cannot even start the engine without putting oil in cylinders) , and if it run tike that for some time, it will destroy engine. I have said many times, compression ir relative, leak down is where its at, if its junk youl deff find it where the air is going."

[loxxrider]

What Pistons are in there again?

[WOMBAT]

Stockers with a light hone (perhaps the issue)

[my2000apb]

run it

[loxxrider]

Yeah, I'd run it.

[Dutchbroracer]

Basically we mean it idles a little... Flat. As in down one cylinder. Go drive around for a minute and it comes right back.

Thanks smart aleck lol I know what it means, was being over dramatic as I've never heard of that happening. Is there a compression number that is ideal for these 5 cylinders?

[vt10vt]

Let me play devil's advocate...

Good sir,

May I interest you in some fine old Audi parts including, but not limited to, a spare AAN block to build.

[vt10vt]

But honestly agree with the above. Run it, those numbers aren't enough to warrant a rebuild, and from the cruise Dana and I will both attest to an almost complete lack of visible signs of oil burnage.

Wish I could say that for the 5min I spent following Dana's MK2

[loxxrider]

Basically we mean it idles a little... Flat. As in down one cylinder. Go drive around for a minute and it comes right back.

Thanks smart aleck lol I know what it means, was being over dramatic as I've never heard of that happening. Is there a compression number that is ideal for these 5 cylinders?

lol OK I didn't know if you just weren't catching onto the term we were using. I wasn't being facetious! I didn't pick up on what you really meant because I was reading from my phone haha.

Anyway, 155 is a decent enough number for a 3b or AAN. Consistency among cylinders is what you're looking for.

[WOMBAT]

Ok,
With your input I'm going to bump it to 30psi. That seems to be the consensus

[chaloux]

Woo woo! I agree on just run it. Does it smoke on startup until warm? As Hank has said before, 5% blow-by on 500whp is 25whp! THAT'S A LOT OF AIR! CCV suddenly becomes very important at higher HP.

And yeah if you're REALLY concerned do a leakdown.

[WOMBAT]

The engine never smokes. Nothing out of the tailpipe except glorious 5cyl banter. The catch can will smoke only once the engine is warm. If I pull the hoses off the can they sort of chug out air like a old locomotive (on a very small scale of course, it's not a ton of smoke or velocity). It just likes to fill the can on boost but a drain back to the pan should help that.

Should I have a check valve on the drain?

[chaloux]

Nice. When dad's rings were toast on his stroker it would smoke on startup first, and then eventually smoked all the time.

I don't have a check valve. Oil doesn't shoot up my drain, i know because it's clear. As I said in my thread, under hard acceleration, especially while turning right since my vent is on the left/drivers side of the engine, I think there's a lot of oil up around that vent and it just gets pushed up into the opening and then shoots into to the can. With the drain my problem is gone but the oil vapors still collect around the filter so I do have to wipe it clean once in a while.