Hanks URQ 2.6L Autopsy

[loxxrider]

Ah, gotcha

[mr_aj_johnson]

Give this thread an update, I had to search to find it.

I've been doing a bit of research on the hydraulic handbrake for the rally car and an idea popped into my head for all you guys with big rear brakes but not much in the way of hand brake options for the bigger calipers.

Use a couple heim joints to attatch your existing ebrake handle to the master then to your rear brakes. A little custom lever action should allow you to iron out any lever ratio issues.

All the funtionality of a stock ebrake but now you dont have to worry about calipers that dont have provisions for them.

Here is a pic of a mk4 ebrake handle


attach it to a pull type master cyl of your sizing.
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Universal ... e,783.html

Does you no good on the track but it could open some options.

Perhaps too much thinking while I should be sleeping, but do you guys think a guy could get away with a single cable driven bicycle brake adapted to the inner CV(I have those 15mm spacers on my drivers front to make up half shaft length)? I could waterjet out custom rotors and make brackets so that it would not be much bigger than the 108mm CV, probably just a hair over that. I understand it wouldn't be much torque for actually stoping a car in an emergency, but I do think it would keep the car stationary on a hill. I guess I could run some numbers, but I want to put some boxter S rear calipers on the URQ, but I need to be able to pass inspections(well not really) still, and an ebrake is still required. I still want a proper hydro ebrake, but it seems like a cable driven ebrake setup would work well.

Picture these inboard, and a pull lever down by the hood release that just locks the wheel so it doesnt roll away. This setup would be particularly sweet at hte track, where putting an ebrake on after a hot lap is a good way to get your pads to weld up to the rotor, or warp rotors. The inboard idea would only be used for stationary lock, so it would never be hot. Even though the padlock is typically uber flat, it is still somewhat unnerving with that gt3 or r8 in front of you

[Audilard]

Good luck getting this thread updated. No one hears or sees anything from Hank these days. He's MIA.

[NiTeC]

the hybrid car looks fantastic Hank...i`ll try to make the competition with the Carleton U car...I`ll keep my eyes open for you guys...

[Twintowers]

I vote for the boat anchor out the window effect, or a ice axe....

[Mcstiff]

Good luck getting this thread updated. No one hears or sees anything from Hank these days. He's MIA.

This guy?

Attachment ( 30416 ) : ImageUploadedByTapatalk1334957922.699722.jpg

[Hank]

Car was running like a bat out of hell, but there were engine problems at 38psi. I started to hear a slight knock that turned me to pull the head. I discovered that my headgasket was blowing causing water into the combustion chamber. The Copper composite worked great for under 30psi, but it didn't like 38. Some scratching occurred when the cool water erroded the hot rings, so I decided to hone and put new rings in. Everything cleaned up nicely, and I did the natural next step.

[loxxrider]

Yeah buddy!

[Sciroccohp]

Naturally

[RSCoupe]

About time...

:wink:

[Hank]

Mark, how did you prep the copper gasket the second time using it? I was just about to PM you or call but this is good for posterity here

[RSCoupe]

Mark, how did you prep the copper gasket the second time using it? I was just about to PM you or call but this is good for posterity here

Cleaned it and used copper spray.

[Hank]

Clean off the existing silicone or just put on the copper over it? Spray it and just let it dry, then put the two outer MLS gaskets on it?

[Audilard]

Nice Hank! Get it running and deliver my goods! :wink:

[Hank]

I hope to have mine running before you turn a wrench on yours

[Dave]

LOL!!

[85oceanic]

Hell ya Hank! Looks good!

[Audilard]

I hope to have mine running before you turn a wrench on yours

You are holding onto all my parts on purpose!

[audifreakjim]

Damn, that turned out nice,

[Hank]

Mark, how much did you leave hte wire sticking out of the block? Javad recommended 5 thou and I ended up with 6. Seems like nothing!!

Yes Jim, it is super easy too. I bought the tool to do it with, for 320$, but I imagine that people will be willing to rent it for 50$. Took me about an hour to do what you see. Bimmer guys do it all the time with the pistons still in the bores. They tape off the cylinders and passages and get it done It works very well.

[EDIGREG]

Damn, that looks good. Looks like that new tool of yours is working quite well.

[fasterthenrs2]

Hank that looks sweet, I have seen 4 bmw blocks done same way, except o rings were much closer to the cylinder wall, and they all failed because was not enough material left there and it ended up braking the edge off and eating that, not a pretty scene. But yours look safe, 5 thousands is the nr,if it is 6 will be fine two, I ended up running just a regular ml gasket and that was the best over cooper.

[Hank]

I have about 1.6mm worth of space between the cylinder and the oring. It did cross my mind though. Especially if I ever need 83.5mm pistons with this setup!! I may try the MLS to start with.
Hank

[RSCoupe]

Clean off the existing silicone or just put on the copper over it? Spray it and just let it dry, then put the two outer MLS gaskets on it?

I honestly don't remember exactly, it's been a while. I'm pretty sure the silicone was already peeling off, so I finish it off, then sprayed the MLS pieces, let dry most of the way, then installed.

Mark, how much did you leave hte wire sticking out of the block? Javad recommended 5 thou and I ended up with 6. Seems like nothing!!

This was handled by the machine shop, but your numbers look right. 6 thou should be fine.
Are you using wire, or pre-formed rings?

[zerb]

wait. you guys still use copper head gaskets .vs. MLS ones? or did i miss something here.