Julian's '91 200 20vt

[88a5tq]

Thanks Marc! Im sure many more people will also find this info helpful in the future as well. I'll try to get the timing light today then.

[88a5tq]

the timing light I borrowed yesterday looks like it's from the 18th century. of course it rained also so I couldn't do anything, and in staying in true form I will be checking it outdoors just as I did the entire reassembly outside. after that mechanic informed me he was keeping my money I decided to refuse any help from him including bringing the car into his garage. Big price to pay for my dignity lol. I still have valve train noise strangely enough but my oil pressure is definitely very good however not too high. Should I just drive it and live with the slight chatter?

[Aktapod]

What oil viscosity are you running?

[chaloux]

2nd. I really like the 5w40 Rotella t6 diesel oil.

[Aktapod]

Hey, that's what I just threw in last week to try it out for the winter! Love it so far. Over the summer, I ran M1 15W-50, which ran like a dream. Not a peep from those pesky lifters, even when getting on it pretty hard.

[88a5tq]

That t6 ever since I bought both my Audis. No substitute for me!

[PRY4SNO]

I run T6 as well. I'm thinking about a switch for the stroker tho, something with more zinc...

[88a5tq]

Im about to do the timing light but thought id mention somehow the VC gasket right above the cam seal blew out somehow and was melting against the sprocket. All fixed. The chatter isn't really that bad honestly. It's just more pronounced. I figure it's my tradeoff for the larger cam lobes...

[88a5tq]

I couldn't get the light to strobe with the pickup cable clamped on COP cylinder 1. Anybody know the trick to doing this with COP? I have the 2.0 coils from EFIexpress. Not sure what Im gonna rig up to put into the coil (and still be able to remove later).

[Marc]

shove a spark plug wire into the end of the coil.

[88a5tq]

Cool thank you. I had called it a night already but I was bouncing that idea around. It's date that that's the solution since one of my plug sets has a wire that is cut all the at to the wire. I have it ready to go after work. Im looking forward to having this chapter brought to a close with the car. Getting ready for some high rpm romps in the near future

[88a5tq]

Timing was spot on. Runs like an animal that's been confined to a cage for a long period of time.

[88a5tq]

My brake MC has been hampering my fun by heating up too much and putting my brakes on partially. I had to make a heat shield to cover most of the lines and the MC/reservoir. I'll see how well it works today.

My downpipe is turning a slightly lighter colored version of itself ever since the HG repair. Must be pretty hot. Maybe I should wrap it. I do recall reading the cast manifolds retain more heat so the DP might be dissipating the extra heat from the new mani.

[88a5tq]

I increased fueling in the spoolup area and decreased boost slightly earlier and heres a couple of my most recent logs. If someone could take a gander Id be indebted to you. Thanks!

[88a5tq]

Everybody, I have a question concerning the 7A cams and VEMS. Ever since the swap the engine turns over as though it has much higher compression than it did before the refresh but that's not where my question lies. Actually, that makes it annoying when I accidentally stall the car in traffic. Im VEEERY gentle on my clutches and sometimes it gets me into trouble. Anywho, with the new cams, the car is easier to stall than with that stock cams. This is most noticeable during a cold start enrichment cycle but is still much easier to stall even when warm. Yesterday I was driving after the car sat for 20 minutes and I stalled at a light when I was taking off. I went to restart and it just kept cranking for about 8 seconds until I retried the key and it started. Gave me a scare actually. Im sure it has to do with the better compression from the refresh. I haven't really changed anything with the idle control to counteract this issue but I changed the minimum PWM Duty allowed to 37 from 35. The problem persists. Does anyone recall having this issue as well when using the 7A cams on VEMS? Any BTDT's? Will changing the timing numbers in the idle ignition advance page correct this? Thanks!


BTW I got the ARP retorque done yesterday without issue. I had the stud next to the factory ignition coil 3/4 turn too loose during the process but fortunately it snugged right back up without any problems. Glad I didn't put that off any longer or maybe I would've been redoing the damn HG again!

[88a5tq]

wow uh so I redid my spark-based idle control numbers and the issue appears to be improved. I like.

So on a side note, is there any VEMS configuration changes required for running the 1.8T MAT sensor on the 3B/AAN? Im already aware that the hole needs enlarged on the intake manifold. Is it basically PNP after that and the wiring?

[Marc]

wow uh so I redid my spark-based idle control numbers and the issue appears to be improved. I like.

So on a side note, is there any VEMS configuration changes required for running the 1.8T MAT sensor on the 3B/AAN? Im already aware that the hole needs enlarged on the intake manifold. Is it basically PNP after that and the wiring?

see here:

http://www.vems.hu/wiki/index.php?page=MembersPage%2FMarcSwanson%2FMotronicAirTempMod

[loxxrider]

Installing 7a cams should primarily involve fuel tweaks and possibly some idle control changes if that isn't already set up robustly.

[88a5tq]

Oh nice thanks Marc. Yah I had changed my ignition based timing numbers to lesser values from the base map just to get rid of the red warning messages next to their fields but after returning all to 10 degrees, the issue looks all but solved. I really am enjoying the cams too.

[88a5tq]

So an update. I modified the ECU by using a razor to carefully remove the 5100 resistor for the intake temp sensor circuit. I have a new 1.8t sensor here with a resistance in the 450 ohm range. The harness plug reads .016 volts or something like that and my laptop shows a reading of 154 C with the sensor plugged in and 49 C unplugged. I tried the firmware patch update procedure several times only using the IAT patch and a couple times with both coolant (online it says "For the coolant patch, select NTC 256/1900" but I noticed the order of those numbers are reversed in the software ie. 1900/256) and IAT patches for kicks. On a mostly cold engine my coolant says 30 C so hopefully that didn't change around. When I pulled out of my workplace's garage to drive the short distance back to my apartment (a whole parking lot), the unplugged sensor started out only reading 60 C and when I pulled up to my door it read 70 C. How can that value change AT ALL if the sensor is unplugged?

Below is a shot of the screen after shutdown. This table looks identical to the one from my older log files. Is this right?

[88a5tq]

Marc is brilliant! And a huge thanks to him for helping me on the weekend! My problem was I cracked the Sauder because I didn't warm it before removing the top 5100 resistor. It works great now!

[loxxrider]

Sweeet. Now get to drivin

[88a5tq]

And drive I shall! Today there is about 10 inches of snow on the ground/car. Less than 70 hours ago it was 70 degress F outside. This is Erie PA and winter mode is all the time.

Quick question here. Sometimes with my VEMS tune on slightly colder days (colder than the 70 degree days I started tuning on) the car will attempt to start with the gas pedal depressed half way-ish when the car is completely cold. Its like it doesnt have enough fuel. However, on the 3rd try, this same starting method yields a perfect start. The head was completely refreshed concerning the seals and gaskets during the HG repair I carried out. Its been awhile since I tuned the starting stuff but I recall it being a pain in the butt. Does anyone have an "Oh, this is the setting/graph you need to modifiy" suggestion that they dont have to look up and spend a butt load of tmie figuring out? Id greatly appreciate it! Thanks everyone

Also found out today that fermaldehyde/embalming fluid is a source of methanol
Anybody have access to cases upon cases of it and CAN'T get it from their autoparts store? lol no, the answer is no and its not a feasible source. Oh well

[88a5tq]

Ok so back story:

New rear calipers and heat reflective tape on under hood brake lines as well as my crafty DIY brake MC/reservoir have mostly fixed my (front?) brakes sticking on after heavy and frequent boost and prolonged trips. I have valvoline dot 3/4 fluid from 7 months ago but it's still not quite as good as the pentosin dot 4 specs. Anyway I attribute this problem to the brake MC taking on a shit load of heat from the radiator fan. The above heat reflective measures almost COMPLETELY solbed the issue except on days above 40 F.

Question: water wetter or wrap exhaust downpipe? Erie gets around -10 F with wind chill so I'm not about putting in more distilled water. I don't want to chance it and it's 50/50 new green coolant as of 6 months ago with a complete, dealer-accomplished flush and fill. It was green when I bought it anyway... I'm worried that putting in water wetter will only make the fan blow hotter air on the master cylinder though.
Any thoughts? Thanks! Bluetooth do-jiggy comes tomorrow!

[88a5tq]

Looking at this BTW based on price and Bluetooth capability alone.

http://m.ebay.com/itm/121343251897