Julian's '91 200 20vt

[88a5tq]

Ya I'm sure you are right. I just need to put a little more effort into my search lol.

I keep forgetting to mention my 80 Toyota fused link has yet to fail for the 500 w fan. I was reusing the weird one that came stock, except I was cutting it down after the failure area and drilling a hole on one end so that I might mount it to the other wire using a nut and bolt. I'm sure it's failure could permanently weaken the fuse material so perhaps that had a role in its second failure. On another note concerning the fan wiring, I tried to remove and sand the 3 connections to the fan resistor assembly or whatever it's called. I only got the one closest to the car's nose apart and am worried trying anymore on the other 2 will just cause the resistor mounts to separate altogether. Holding off until a new one comes along.

[88a5tq]

Ok I've got a tuning question. It's about mitigating risk, in first gear, in relation to the engine. The risk arises from running water/meth injection and heightened ignition timing that goes along with that. in my opinion, first gear with my setup is entirely too short duration to allow any water/meth solution to make it into the intake tract before high RPM's. I have the controller set to begin at 4 psi but its only above that for a VERY short period of time in first gear.

My concern arose when i realized just how long the controller took to get full voltage to the punp when using the test button. In my mind, I figured the quickest way to negate this risk was to use a meth solenoid that's actuated immediately upon powering the pump. Before this there was a POS check valve with probably 15 to 20 lbs spring force actuating it. To be honest it feels like my first gear goes by in under 2 seconds. Maybe even less than 1.5s of which is even under enough boost to turn the meth controller on.

I have an aluminum flywheel which I believe makes this risk even more so since it makes the gears go so quickly. For the people out there who run meth injection and found this short duration of first gear to be a real concern, what did you do from a tuning standpoint if anything? Was table switching (within vems) even necessary in the end? Am I paranoid?! Stop touching me! NO. oh GOD the VOICES! No NA is out of the question! WWYD

I suppose my concern could be unjustified if, say, the controller went straight to full voltage or whatever V is called for for a given psi, when in a real world situation and not the testing program. Anyone know if the test button is a pretty accurate indicator of how long these controllers take to get to full V? Thanks

[88a5tq]

I called AEM support again and they say as long as there is fluid in the lines after the last pull that it should inject instantaneously and that it samples the boost pressure several times a second to account for quick changes in MAP. I'm going to record some knock phones audio here tonight so some kind members might review for knock. I listened to a clip from Marc and had to ask myself if he was messing with me lol. "Wait where is this knock?" well thank you in advance to anyone who can review my audio clip and she'd some light on these sounds.

[chaloux]

I'm game to have a listen

[88a5tq]

Thank you kind sir This is a wma file and has first through 4th gear. Sorry but you will need to change the file extension from .vemscfg to .wma to listen

[88a5tq]

Um does this audio clip make my computer recording ability seem shitty? I just listened on my stereo and it was awful! I guess I could try another device to record but I don't think I have anything with a line-in function. Next thought is different recording software besides the Sound Recorder that comes with Win 8. Hope it sounds better to other people. I couldn't seem to get it to play directly from the knock phones adapter when plugged into my skull candy head phones :( I was hoping to listen in while recording since it sounded utterly horrible through the even worse toshiba laptop onboard speaker.

Also as a side note the weather is heating up here and the timing was slightly retarded from the table for IAT's because it kicks in at 20 C and I was at 27 C I think during this recording session.

[88a5tq]

To the 2 ppl that listened to this garbage file, was it as bad as I said? I may get an external USB sound card that has 192 kb or whatever sampling rate. That should do nicely. It's a whole 13 bucks

[carl]

Sounds like too much gain while recording, try at 10% or other levels on your line in.

[88a5tq]

Over the weekend I made another recording but I want to redo it. There were 3 "effects" enabled that I turned off in the deep deep settings of windows 8. I had the level at 100 tho and it caused 3 totally silent cutouts at high rpm that made it all in vain. I'm really hoping that was the cause. I'll reduce to idk, 83% lol. Whatever I'll just start with that that .

And now a question: this one has really had me stumped ever since I bought the 200. It has a larger brake MC, a higher pressure pump I believe, front brake cooling ducts, and the same G60 front brakes when compared to the 5000. Also the front brakes are still barely clamping when driving for a long period of time with 55+ F ambient temps. After that and all the heat shielding I put in the 200, the 5000 still brakes BETTER!! WHYYYYYY!? I don't understand (obviously) but on Sunday evening I cleaned out the old grease in the caliper guide pins and even replaced 2 between the 2 corners with new boots and bolts and new grease in all 4. It only put off the inevitable for like 30 minutes longer!

I also wrapped nearly all the underhood brake lines for the fronts with header insulator and that also kinda worked better for protection frpm the headers and DP I suppose. I did my best to cover the short runner, log header with the header wrap I had left. As of a last ditch effort of the weekend consisting of excessive heat shielding use, I got my IAT's down to exactly ambient, EXACTLY lol. That last part was just me gloating really since that doesn't have jack affect on the front brakes.

Right so my question is, how does this braking that's reminiscent of brake-fade on my 200 even happen when it has all these heat dissipating aides helping it? It literally always feels like slight brake fade even when cold. I flushed the entire system for DOT 3/4 synthetic from autozone when I replaced the rear calipers upon purchase of the car. It has very new looking calipers from the PO I guess and the pads were still good.

I'm running out of ideas and letting it bother me hah

[88a5tq]

I forgot to add that the 5k also has the pressure warning switch on the back of the MC tripped so that's another strike against the 5k lol.

I'm going to pull the front-most banjo on the pump and check the screen on the banjo for a blockage next

[themagellan]

Try a different pad (Mintex RedBox) for G60's are pretty phenomenal (I used them on a mk4) and will be my next upgrade.

Also, are you really sure you've bled the brakes correctly? Your fade sounds really like it could be very related to old fluid or it not being bled properly which allowed air in to up your brake fluid temps.

Just wil' westin' it.

[88a5tq]

I actually got some new pads at the place next to my worker place for 40% off. Got their top of the line special order $85 pads for $44 and they'll be in tomorrow. Really hope it cuts down on heat and helps the bite.

I use a hand pump to pressure bleed all my brakes at the caliper with tape to seal the bleed valve threads to the caliper. Pretty confident in my bleed. This happens after extended driving in heat. The pedal feels great b4 that but can get up to an inch of no pedal at all when first pressed if it's getting weird from driving. I'm considering the MC as well even though I sprayed it with water and nothing changed. Will update. Thanks for your chiming in sir

[88a5tq]

Perfect stop ps419m pads. It's really too bad I'll just be cutting off the electrical parts since I bypassed it on the 200

[88a5tq]

New pads are working GREAT. Old ones were more than half worn and rust had gone to work on the shims which were out of place somewhat and looked stupid useless. It was in the 30's today but someday soon I'll know if the stuck pedal feeling has been solved

[88a5tq]

Is it possible for pads to age in a weigh that causes them to produce/retain alot of heat and manifest I'm the way I described in the past months? The shims only seem to be a solution for squealing and nothing to do with heat. The shims were really only half on the pads on the old set. I won't be able to see if the problem is solved for at least a week seeing as winter has basically returned to PA. In the 30's here

[88a5tq]

60 degree day today with zero braking issues! I think somehow my guide pins were swelling with the heat where extensive rust formed at the booted ends. The are slightly larger diameter there at the end of their travel range. The pads were probably much lower/worn more than I realized and we're just catching on the rust after applying them.

Maybe finally I can take that stupid brake MC heat shield off for good! Then I'll just have all the other stupid shit left under the hood to look at

[88a5tq]

Anyone else here think triple - ply TP is a waste of a 3rd ply?

Taking the leap:

[loxxrider]

Launch control?

[88a5tq]

Yessir!

My pic was coming up upside down so I was fixing that lol. Probably was a wild guess that payed off on your part with my poor shot of it

[88a5tq]

I seriously wired it up during the month my ecu was being assembled. Checked the wiring and such just to be sure cuz it had been forever since then hah

So what will these shenanigans do to my OEM cats? Still have their guts

[88a5tq]

The only update I have is that neither the ALS or launch control indicators turned on on vemsdisplay. Am I up the creek? How do I confirm if that circuit is burnt up? I'll try to directly ground pin 2 instead of running it through my clutch and the momentary switch tomorrow

[loxxrider]

You can activate it in VEMS without the switch if you want. That'll tell you if that board is fried.

[88a5tq]

Ok good stuff sir. T.Y.

[88a5tq]

Well this is disappointing. I guess it's fried. Nothing happening here. Neither ALS or launch control toggle their respective indicator lights when set to always on. Anybody know how much this is gonna cost me?

[88a5tq]

I just confirmed my wiring with my digi multimeter and I'm getting no registering voltage reading (not + or -) so it's not V back feeding into the aux chipset on channel 2. This could have happened a long time ago.