I am going to be testing my hypothesis on why 20v exhaust studs are so notorious for backing out even with thread locker. I believe it is due to lack of a flex pipe in the exhaust system. I will be adding hangers for the factory pipe and connecting the downpipe to the exhaust system via a braided flex pipe. Will be doing that this week.
Last edited by AngryTaco on Tue Apr 21, 2015 10:54 am, edited 1 time in total.
1986 4000cs Turbo Quattro 2001 Dodge Dakota R/T Standard Cab 1990 V8 quattro 1995 urS6
-Hersh Performance and Racing Products- Most orders are being refused until further notice. Please PM
AngryTaco wrote: I believe it is due to lack of a flex pipe in the exhaust system.
Wow this project look extensive as F#@% lol. When you did that 5th gear swap I was lie WHHYYYYYYYY punish yourself?! Looks great tho man. I also agree on the exhaust studs. I had my exhaust redone as a straight pipe and they tack welded the mounts to the frame and it was vibrating like crazy and no mercy being theres no flex pipe. Sure enough I lost the first 2 rear EM studs within 2 weeks of driving. I was able to half ass it with some GM studs without pulling anything off in order to do it right. There still there to this day but I made the shop correct the mounts for use with rubber items
1991 Audi 200q Holset 1991 Audi 200q Felbaum'd 1988 Audi 5000 TQ
There is certainly a lot of work involved. I just got the wiring harness into the firewall so the interior wiring begins. Wait till you guys see what I had to do on a snapped wastegate stud. I played with fire and welders for damn near two hours trying to remove 1 stud! finally I got pissed and melted it out then retapped the hole. PITA!!!!
1986 4000cs Turbo Quattro 2001 Dodge Dakota R/T Standard Cab 1990 V8 quattro 1995 urS6
-Hersh Performance and Racing Products- Most orders are being refused until further notice. Please PM
After some trimming on the intake manifold and igloo, everything fits VERY snug with the MC2 distributor setup. The fuel pressure reg is different vs the MC1 setup so some small changes had to be made, most with a GIANT DEADBLOW HAMMER
1986 4000cs Turbo Quattro 2001 Dodge Dakota R/T Standard Cab 1990 V8 quattro 1995 urS6
-Hersh Performance and Racing Products- Most orders are being refused until further notice. Please PM
So Im doing the fuel wiring right now. With a horn relay, I get fuel with the key on. This is a tempory thing while I figure out the hall sensor trigger. My question is does anyone know if the hall sensor signal from the 20vt distributor is correct to trigger the normal relay of this wagon. I CAN NOT use the ecm ground signal with this relay/fusebox setup (or can I?) without doing a ton of aftermarket wiring and using a 20vt relay. Ive yet to figure out a cel system with this yet but that will be later down the road (no cel on the dash) with some instrument panel rewiring. The 20vt relay is a 7-pin vs the stock 5-pin. The fuse box does not allow for a 7-pin btw, only 6.
Were talking about doing a 20vt swap in the future too after we get his suspension and brakes back to acceptable standards. That or finding another syncro and 20vt swap that. Should be neato
1986 4000cs Turbo Quattro 2001 Dodge Dakota R/T Standard Cab 1990 V8 quattro 1995 urS6
-Hersh Performance and Racing Products- Most orders are being refused until further notice. Please PM
Why not just tap into the OEM relay and have it trigger the correct one? Shouldn't be too much extra wiring.
"If you can't find one, make one"
Dallastown, PA 1991 Audi 80 quattro (20vt project) 1991 Audi Coupe Quattro (project: my first 20v) 2007 Mitsubishi Raider(Dakota in disguise) 2019 Chevy Cruze RS hatch (wife's little red sporty car)
That is so something I would do. Hell, I did do it!
"If you can't find one, make one"
Dallastown, PA 1991 Audi 80 quattro (20vt project) 1991 Audi Coupe Quattro (project: my first 20v) 2007 Mitsubishi Raider(Dakota in disguise) 2019 Chevy Cruze RS hatch (wife's little red sporty car)
Has real laggy throttle response but I also havent hooked up a vacuum/boost line up to the computer either. Installed the wrong valve cover gasket so the thing pukes oil currently.
Fixing that tomorrow
Runs very healthy though
1986 4000cs Turbo Quattro 2001 Dodge Dakota R/T Standard Cab 1990 V8 quattro 1995 urS6
-Hersh Performance and Racing Products- Most orders are being refused until further notice. Please PM
The laggy throttle response is from the lack of timing adjustment. Make sure you have the moisture trap and the correct length of vacuum line going to the ECU.
The moisture trap, I can understand. Even in my EFI conversion, I ended up installing one basically just to smooth out the vacuum reference.
How would the vacuum line length be critical?
"If you can't find one, make one"
Dallastown, PA 1991 Audi 80 quattro (20vt project) 1991 Audi Coupe Quattro (project: my first 20v) 2007 Mitsubishi Raider(Dakota in disguise) 2019 Chevy Cruze RS hatch (wife's little red sporty car)