
Marc's 1990 4.2L V8 Twin Turbo Coupe Quattro
timmmy wrote:DROOOLLL - A similar setup with datalogging and video is on my shopping list
Thought I would chime in and let you know I found speedbleeders in the correct size at the Portsmouth / Newington Pepboys last night for $9.99 a pair. I didnt buy them as I already have a spare set that I paid the $10 Summit handling fee and shipping on
:bashtard:
part number?
I'll definitely go pick up a couple for the coupe

Marc Swanson
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newt wrote:You don't need a water temp sensor for the dash, it gets that off the CAN stream from the ECU (BOSCH_ENGINE_TEMP)a4kquattro wrote:I was going to install this thing after completion of the main engine swap but then though I ought to install it now since I haven't hooked up things like a separate water temp sensor for the instrument cluster, etc.![]()
right, I know
I'm saying rather than run new wiring to a separate water temp sensor I'd rather just hook up this dash now.Never ended up using that, though a voltage divider circuit off your stock gauge setup should work fine to knock it down from 20v to 5.I see you have an alarm set for fuel level on what seems to be analog input #8. What did you hook that wire up to, the standard level sender wire from the tank?
ahh, gotcha.
We've got VDO 5-Bar sensors I'm using for fuel and oil pressure. 0-2, 0-5, and 0-10 are all availible.also, you labeled one of your inputs 'fuel pressure'. What did you use as teh sender to drive that?
Not really, it's a VR, so it'll emit an AC signal of sorts, I haven't had a problem thus far hooking mine up either way.lastly, on the speed pickup I know you mentioned you used an ABS sensor. If I'm reading the diagram right you used pins 10A (ground) and 12A (speed +). does the polarity matter on those to the sender?
thanks!
coolio, I'll start working on the harness with what I've got at the house to make things easier/faster once I get to the shop (hopefully this weekend). Did I mention its getting colder? :-P
Thanks for the info Nate!
Marc Swanson
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a4kquattro wrote:timmmy wrote:DROOOLLL - A similar setup with datalogging and video is on my shopping list
Thought I would chime in and let you know I found speedbleeders in the correct size at the Portsmouth / Newington Pepboys last night for $9.99 a pair. I didnt buy them as I already have a spare set that I paid the $10 Summit handling fee and shipping on
:bashtard:
part number?
I'll definitely go pick up a couple for the coupe
Sorry cant help on the aprt number, they are sold by size i.e. M10 x 1.0 and then teh overall length 33mm. So youll need to figure out what size you need.
timmmy wrote:a4kquattro wrote:timmmy wrote:DROOOLLL - A similar setup with datalogging and video is on my shopping list
Thought I would chime in and let you know I found speedbleeders in the correct size at the Portsmouth / Newington Pepboys last night for $9.99 a pair. I didnt buy them as I already have a spare set that I paid the $10 Summit handling fee and shipping on
:bashtard:
part number?
I'll definitely go pick up a couple for the coupe
Sorry cant help on the aprt number, they are sold by size i.e. M10 x 1.0 and then teh overall length 33mm. So youll need to figure out what size you need.
hmm, well I'm 99% sure the bleeder threads on my coupe calipers (stock) are the same as on your 200. was it m10x1.0 for that app?
Marc Swanson
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Heres the info I found before. You are using the Porsche on the front? Or G60's for now?
Rears are vented?
rom the manufacturers
websitehttp://www.russellperformance.co ... ders.shtml
Bleeding your brake or clutch line has never been easier or simpler! Revolutionary double-patented Speed Bleeder replaces the original bleeder valve in your caliper/wheel cylinder with a spring-loaded one-way ball and check valve design. This unique design opens to allow the old fluid and air out, then closes automatically between pumps to prevent the old fluid and air from re-entering the line. It's a real time saver!
SPEED BLEEDER REFERENCE CHART
PART # THREAD OVERALL LENGTH
639340 8mm x 1.0 37mm
639510 7/16 - 20 1.25"
639520 8mm x 1.25mm 24mm
639530 5/16 - 24 1"
639540 1/4 - 28 1"
639550 8mm x 1.0 34mm
639560 10mm x 1.0 35mm
639570 7mm x 1.0 34mm
639580 10mm x 1.5 30mm
639590 3/8 - 24 1"
639600 3/8 - 24 long 1.50"
639610 10mm x 1.25 33mm
639620 8mm x 1.25 39mm
639630 10mm x 1.0 33mm
639640 6mm x 1.0 1.13"
For the 1991 200 20V TQA you need M10x1.0 x 33 or 35mm long. (G60's up front, vented rears)
Here is what I ordered from Summit Racing...(2 cars to do), make sure you buy the bleeder bag as well as it makes life very easy. I ordered 2 bleeder bags, one for when I am using DOT4 and the other for ATE. My last bleeder bag is 2 years old and still works great, but its a bit dirty now.
Part # Item Box Status Price Qty Price
RUS-639500 SPEED BLEEDER BAG A $8.69 2 $17.38
RUS-639560 SPEED BLEEDER 10MM X 1.0 PAIR A $9.88 2 $19.76
RUS-639630 SPEED BLEEDER PAIR A $9.88 2 $19.76
Rears are vented?
rom the manufacturers
websitehttp://www.russellperformance.co ... ders.shtml
Bleeding your brake or clutch line has never been easier or simpler! Revolutionary double-patented Speed Bleeder replaces the original bleeder valve in your caliper/wheel cylinder with a spring-loaded one-way ball and check valve design. This unique design opens to allow the old fluid and air out, then closes automatically between pumps to prevent the old fluid and air from re-entering the line. It's a real time saver!
SPEED BLEEDER REFERENCE CHART
PART # THREAD OVERALL LENGTH
639340 8mm x 1.0 37mm
639510 7/16 - 20 1.25"
639520 8mm x 1.25mm 24mm
639530 5/16 - 24 1"
639540 1/4 - 28 1"
639550 8mm x 1.0 34mm
639560 10mm x 1.0 35mm
639570 7mm x 1.0 34mm
639580 10mm x 1.5 30mm
639590 3/8 - 24 1"
639600 3/8 - 24 long 1.50"
639610 10mm x 1.25 33mm
639620 8mm x 1.25 39mm
639630 10mm x 1.0 33mm
639640 6mm x 1.0 1.13"
For the 1991 200 20V TQA you need M10x1.0 x 33 or 35mm long. (G60's up front, vented rears)
Here is what I ordered from Summit Racing...(2 cars to do), make sure you buy the bleeder bag as well as it makes life very easy. I ordered 2 bleeder bags, one for when I am using DOT4 and the other for ATE. My last bleeder bag is 2 years old and still works great, but its a bit dirty now.
Part # Item Box Status Price Qty Price
RUS-639500 SPEED BLEEDER BAG A $8.69 2 $17.38
RUS-639560 SPEED BLEEDER 10MM X 1.0 PAIR A $9.88 2 $19.76
RUS-639630 SPEED BLEEDER PAIR A $9.88 2 $19.76
timmmy wrote:Heres the info I found before. You are using the Porsche on the front? Or G60's for now?
G60's until after the car comes home from the shop.
Rears are vented?
good question, not sure. Stockers.
those speed bleeder bags are kinda cool, I was putting together a summit racing order for some other stuff anyway so I might as well throw these bleeders in there for convienience sake.
:thanks:
Marc Swanson
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a4kquattro wrote:timmmy wrote:Heres the info I found before. You are using the Porsche on the front? Or G60's for now?
G60's until after the car comes home from the shop.Rears are vented?
good question, not sure. Stockers.
those speed bleeder bags are kinda cool, I was putting together a summit racing order for some other stuff anyway so I might as well throw these bleeders in there for convienience sake.
:thanks:
Checked the ETKA, rears are M10x1.0 on the 1990 coupe.
Bleeder bags rule

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Highlander
Marc,
that's one awesome project. I'm doing all the fabrication work myself on my car and man my hat comes of to you. I know the countless hours and dollars that you must be spending on that car. Some people will never understand guys like us. Guys that do things that other people say can't be done.For those guys I say "go buy a Toyota".
That's why I like this group so much, hardcore to say the least.
Keep up the great work.
cheers,
Craig Cook.
that's one awesome project. I'm doing all the fabrication work myself on my car and man my hat comes of to you. I know the countless hours and dollars that you must be spending on that car. Some people will never understand guys like us. Guys that do things that other people say can't be done.For those guys I say "go buy a Toyota".
That's why I like this group so much, hardcore to say the least.
Keep up the great work.
cheers,
Craig Cook.
Highlander wrote:Marc,
that's one awesome project. I'm doing all the fabrication work myself on my car and man my hat comes of to you. I know the countless hours and dollars that you must be spending on that car. Some people will never understand guys like us. Guys that do things that other people say can't be done.For those guys I say "go buy a Toyota".
That's why I like this group so much, hardcore to say the least.
Keep up the great work.![]()
cheers,
Craig Cook.
Thanks Craig, been following your project thread too. Thats what motorgeek is for really, the 'hard core' types :cheers:
Marc Swanson
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timmmy wrote:Im Hard core![]()
I didn't want to say anything, but next time you're over to watch the v8 twin turbo roar out of the garage you might want to turn your back or something...

Marc Swanson
Proprietor, EFI Motorsport
Proprietor, EFI Motorsport
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Toxcheap
Toxcheap wrote:Does that mean it done now?
no, but closer and closer as always

coupla pics from Friday/Saturday at the shop:
Tacked the over-the-axle pipe. As pictured it wont quite fit in one piece but I'm waiting on one more 2.5" v-band kit to separate the rear section from the over the axle pipe. I will finish the rest of the exhaust once the v-band arrives.

I bought one of those vibrant 'euro fit' mufflers for the rear. Its a nice looking box:

but.. as Myke pointed out the transition pipe inside the muffler box is a friggin miter cut 90!!!! :-P

relatively standard fare baffling on the other side

I also welded on a hanger bar to the main pipes (stainless 3/8" smooth rod):

Added 18mm bungs to the top of each downpipe (I'll actually be using these for EGT probes but decided to go with standard o2 sensor thread in case for some crazy reason I feel the need to sample the o2 at that location


I also built a bracket to secure the intake pipe into the rear of the manifold, it secures to the factory airbox locations on the engine (yes, I will powdercoat it :-P)

I also redid my 'ricer pipe', I wanted it to come out a bit lower and at a different angle

side view:

thats all for now, next up is the rest of the rear section once the v-band comes in and then a bit more interior wiring.. and then..
donuts

Marc Swanson
Proprietor, EFI Motorsport
Proprietor, EFI Motorsport
derracuda wrote:dang, nice progress marc 8) we're gonna need some good vids when it's done for motivation
aye aye captain
oh and D3r3K, I have a present for you (and it aint even christmas)

Marc Swanson
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Toxcheap
couple more updates from today...
Had to cut things short, totally forgot my bro and family was coming over tonight, whoops!
powdercoated the intake pipe bracket

decided to finish off the rear section of the exhaust even though I dont have the v-band kit in yet. Figured I'd drop off the parts to the same welder that finished the intake pipes for me so I can have em for next weekend

mounted the innovate LC1 wideband


In other news, Dennis had some fun today with exploded drain pipes at his house, guess this ones been leakin' for a while. Had to cut a nice hole in the side of his house to get to it:

And why fix that with just any ordinary home cheapot hose? No sir, Dennis sink drain is now ready for at least 30 pounds of boost :-P

more next weekend
Had to cut things short, totally forgot my bro and family was coming over tonight, whoops!
powdercoated the intake pipe bracket
decided to finish off the rear section of the exhaust even though I dont have the v-band kit in yet. Figured I'd drop off the parts to the same welder that finished the intake pipes for me so I can have em for next weekend
mounted the innovate LC1 wideband
In other news, Dennis had some fun today with exploded drain pipes at his house, guess this ones been leakin' for a while. Had to cut a nice hole in the side of his house to get to it:
And why fix that with just any ordinary home cheapot hose? No sir, Dennis sink drain is now ready for at least 30 pounds of boost :-P
more next weekend

Marc Swanson
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anybody know who sells carbon fiber templates for the MXL series of dashboards?
I found one company that sells them as bolt on kits for a miata but was hoping for something more generic. Here's the one from miatacage.com:


that one goes for $120, others?
I found one company that sells them as bolt on kits for a miata but was hoping for something more generic. Here's the one from miatacage.com:


that one goes for $120, others?
Marc Swanson
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Proprietor, EFI Motorsport
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audifreakjim
