1983 URQ Alpine White/Mocha 20VT / VEMS / EFR

[dbldmnd]

I'm kind of bummed that you gave up on the CIS, I had my fingers crossed that it would come to life with a bit of fiddling, but totally understand. There is only so much time to screw around when you have a 3b sitting next to it. I reached the same point with my 83, I screwed around for a while then when I measured low compression, that sealed the deal for the WX. We just pulled a running 3B so that should go in soon.

As for brakes, on my 84 urq, I changed over to the vacuum booster and it has been fine. My setup is 4k/cgt vacuum booster, 91 200 brake master cylinder and reservoir, aftermarket bias valve and A4 ATE calipers with correct rotors. I have also installed the 91 200 rear brake calipers with V8 rear vented rotors. It's all bolt on, no fab needed, and is the largest brake setup that can fit under the 15in fuchs wheels. The brakes work great and various A4 pads/rotors are available. And I don't have leaking hydraulic brake stuff. I was worried about the vacuum boost since I left foot brake at our ice driving events, but haven't had any problems.

There are a bunch of small things I also changed like getting the p/s pump bracket, it is a Ben Howell design which I think Iroz now makes and I think I used a 924/944 check valve in the booster. Also used 80/90 p/s hose from the pump to the rack or recervoir. It was some mixing and matching which worked out fine.

Keep the updates coming, it's great to watch the progress.

[Afterthought]

I'm kind of bummed that you gave up on the CIS, I had my fingers crossed that it would come to life with a bit of fiddling, but totally understand. There is only so much time to screw around when you have a 3b sitting next to it. I reached the same point with my 83, I screwed around for a while then when I measured low compression, that sealed the deal for the WX. We just pulled a running 3B so that should go in soon.

I know, I hate stopping on something I know I can fix and I'm probably not far from the solution on that. But taking a step back and looking at my goal, I want the 3B in that car and both time and money is limited. Rebuilding the 3b and getting the remaining parts I need is cutting it very close already. I still don't have a clutch or flywheel and some of the other stuff necessary. So I decided if it got to the point where I was spending money and time on the WX I would go 3B- because at a minimum I would be doing a timing belt and all fluids , and more troubleshooting to get it started.

As for brakes, on my 84 urq, I changed over to the vacuum booster and it has been fine. My setup is 4k/cgt vacuum booster, 91 200 brake master cylinder and reservoir, aftermarket bias valve and A4 ATE calipers with correct rotors. I have also installed the 91 200 rear brake calipers with V8 rear vented rotors. It's all bolt on, no fab needed, and is the largest brake setup that can fit under the 15in fuchs wheels. The brakes work great and various A4 pads/rotors are available. And I don't have leaking hydraulic brake stuff. I was worried about the vacuum boost since I left foot brake at our ice driving events, but haven't had any problems.

Planning to do the same setup, 4000 booster and 200 MC/reservoir. I have a B4 90 booster but I think it's just a little too big (1" or so bigger diameter)
I will probably wait on this work for now though and just focus on getting the engine in and car running right for the time being. Unless it looks like I'll absolutely need the space to do this while the engine is out.

[Afterthought]

saved myself a lot of trouble here for 9.99
[img]http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x413/02s4nogaro/1983URQ/36F5B24F-09F2-409F-8D1D-
5D90CF70181C_zpsduzuserq.jpg[/img]

[Afterthought]

What spring rates are you guys running for a nice aggressive spring set-up?
On "ground control" coils I've had anything from 320/280 to 400/380 on a 4000 or b3 coupe Q .
Any recommendations as to where to start ?

[Afterthought]

More progress. Finally got a day off. Finished removing the engine, subframe and trans. Dropped out of the bottom real easy besides the pain of disconnecting trans linkage and stuff.

[Marc]

What spring rates are you guys running for a nice aggressive spring set-up?
On "ground control" coils I've had anything from 320/280 to 400/380 on a 4000 or b3 coupe Q .
Any recommendations as to where to start ?

I put 500's on my CQ and didn't find it too stiff, but to each their own. stock H&R lowering springs are around 250ish

[Afterthought]

Thanks Marc, Im not in a hurry with the suspension so I'll do some research and figure out what I want.

[Afterthought]

Ordered some Audi L90E Alpine white paint for the engine bay. I guess now I have to get everything out of the way. Also want to get down to the subframe and do a repaint on that.

[Afterthought]

Well only have one day off this week so not much progress again.
Did separate the engine and trans. Damn the stock WX flywheel is huge!

[Afterthought]

Something cool showed up from germany...

[Afterthought]

Very few updates... logged 80.5 hrs of overtime the last pay period. Why?

To pay for this enormous box of goodies from Marc




-Vems Computer set for auditrigger
-VEMS I-6 Base harness with extra connectors for no splicey
-Top and bottom end gasket set
-Calico coated rod and main bearings
-Southbend Stage 3 endurance (set up for 016, will change out disc when I go 01E to make it a stage 4)
-ARP head studs
-Ferrea 6000 Valves

Have everything but the rods now, hopefully they'll be here soon.

Hopefully I can pickup the head and block after I get off work this morning.

[Afterthought]

Game on, Kinda. I got my engine back but need to order rings. Gonna do what I can now then look at cleaning the engine bay.

[the german]

Awesome! Youre becoming a veteran of this engine swap between the CQ and this. I came to the same point with the CIS on Alex's CGT right before I sold it to him. Very frustrating.

[Afterthought]

Awesome! Youre becoming a veteran of this engine swap between the CQ and this. I came to the same point with the CIS on Alex's CGT right before I sold it to him. Very frustrating.

There will probably be more swaps someday in the future. But after this I have some american cars to work on!

[Afterthought]

Time to get some shit out of the way and address the sad state of my engine bay :(

[ringbearer]

Don't touch it, it's perfect! I love raw aluminum

[PRY4SNO]

I couldn't decide either... so I figured I'd leave it for now and maybe rough it up with a wire wheel and do a clear coat.

[Afterthought]

Don't touch it, it's perfect! I love raw aluminum

For now I'm going to leave It as is. Once I decide what to do with the breather setup I will be welding on it anyways most likely. Then hit it again with the sandblaster real quick and probably call it good.
If it wasn't for the nature of the blasting media (mine is currently filled with glass beads) everything on my engine would be completely clean and fresh looking but with some of the parts I don't know what to do to reliably ensure that I have all the beads out. Example, oil pump. I left that. It'd be cool to have it look brand new but It's not worth the risk to me.

[Afterthought]

Does anyone happen to know exactly which steering rack, and which pump, lines and master cylinder to use when going to vac assist?
I think it makes the most sense to do this swap now. It will give me the opportunity to get everything out of the way and get the engine bay resprayed in factory L90E Alpine white.
My research so far tells me I can use a 4000 steering rack, and either re-use my master cylinder or upgrade to 91 200 MC. I already have a booster from the 4000. But will need pump still. I had a 95 90 PS pump but used it in my 90 CQ conversion.

[the german]

Don't touch it, it's perfect! I love raw aluminum

For now I'm going to leave It as is. Once I decide what to do with the breather setup I will be welding on it anyways most likely. Then hit it again with the sandblaster real quick and probably call it good.
If it wasn't for the nature of the blasting media (mine is currently filled with glass beads) everything on my engine would be completely clean and fresh looking but with some of the parts I don't know what to do to reliably ensure that I have all the beads out. Example, oil pump. I left that. It'd be cool to have it look brand new but It's not worth the risk to me.

Your concern about cleaning all the media out is well founded. It is nearly impossible to get everything and for that reason crushed nut shells (such as walnut she'll) is the preferred choice for blasting engine parts where contamination is possible. With glass bead it could be catastrophic, whereas the nut shell just gets chewed up and doesn't cause issues.

[Mcstiff]

I've been reading good things about Gibbs Oil for raw aluminum, I'll probably give it a shot on my CQ.

[Afterthought]

Your concern about cleaning all the media out is well founded. It is nearly impossible to get everything and for that reason crushed nut shells (such as walnut she'll) is the preferred choice for blasting engine parts where contamination is possible. With glass bead it could be catastrophic, whereas the nut shell just gets chewed up and doesn't cause issues.

Man, I am about due for some new media then. I've avoided doing a lot of things on this engine so far in fear of that. What I really would love to invest in some day is a real parts washer. i don't know if anyone has anything that they've had good experience with but I need something that will clean blocks and greasy parts up that isn't $5,000.

I've been reading good things about Gibbs Oil for raw aluminum, I'll probably give it a shot on my CQ.

Man , I need that stuff. This is on of my other projects.. I think that oil would work perfectly to preserve the "Patina" on this truck. Was going to start a project thread but I don't think im dropping an AAN in it

[dbldmnd]

Does anyone happen to know exactly which steering rack, and which pump, lines and master cylinder to use when going to vac assist?
I think it makes the most sense to do this swap now. It will give me the opportunity to get everything out of the way and get the engine bay resprayed in factory L90E Alpine white.
My research so far tells me I can use a 4000 steering rack, and either re-use my master cylinder or upgrade to 91 200 MC. I already have a booster from the 4000. But will need pump still. I had a 95 90 PS pump but used it in my 90 CQ conversion.

You can use the urq steering rack, reservoir and p/s pump. I changed to a 80/90 hose from the pump to the rack as it had a 90 deg bend which fits better at the pump outlet next to the 3B intake manifold. Then you need to get the p/s pump mount bracket that mounts to the block, I think Iroz makes this part now. I also used the 4k reservoir and placed it on the firewall. Others have used the stock urq in stock location or relocated it near the washer reservoir. It's pretty tight by the firewall, so I can see why that has been done.

For the brake part I used a 4k/gt booster with a 91 200 20vt master cylinder and reservoir with aftermarket bias valve.

[Afterthought]

Dbldmnd thank you for the reply. I have an assortment of parts to use.
-4000Q Brake booster
-Stock and 4000Q PS rack
- 3B PS pump and hoses
-For the master cylinder I have the stock one only I'm pretty sure.
-Haven't sourced a Prop. valve yet
May have to custom make the hoses but we'll see. That high pressure stuff gets really expensive.
Gonna work on getting everything out of the way tomorrow.

[Afterthought]

Getting closer. Starting to sand stuff using the red scotch brite pads.
Wish I could just sandblast the whole damn engine bay.