Mars 83 MC2

[auditrippin]

Thank you both for the replies. I did get the rear tie rods flipped per your pic Afterthought.

DE80Q, that is exactly what I was looking for! Ordered. now hopefully F5 can come up with the other factory lines. I would prefer not to build my own.

[auditrippin]

Update!!!!

Lots of collecting parts, installing, and diving deeper in.

Scored all the necessary cooling lines for the AAN K24 turbo from F5. While I am in there I decided I didn't want to keep the cracked to hell exhaust manifold so I picked up a welded and ported one for super cheap. Upon removing the old manifold I found the second studs in, top and bottom both snapped off. No big deal, was able to drill and tap out.

What I got Installed up to date:
-New/ used exhaust manifold in.
-Single oil filter housing
-2B oil cooler
-Snub mount, cut off forward mounting ear for AC compressor. It gets in the way of the IC
-4kq alternator bracket and Alternator
-Turbo and cooling lines
-85+ 4kq tie rod assemblies and put a little bend on the passenger side. Hopefully I don't have to pull it and add more bend.
-Clutch
-Brake booster and started landing brake lines
-All new gaskets, crush washers, etc for anything removed and got some good use out of the torque wrench
-Pilot bearing, HK1816

Where I ran into issues:
-The bottom turbo line to the block was about 1 1/2" too long. Cut closer to 2" off the end flange and welded back on. This ended up being slightly too much, so I heated up the piping and bent it to where it would work.

-The pilot bearing for the urq transmission is a bitch to get a hold of. Mark S could not get one and neither could I. Mark pulled through with HK1816. Did a quick google and ordered one.

-From what I can tell the front brake lines each go to left and right ports on the master and the rear attaches to the prop valve. Correct? I'll include a pic. Also ordered a brake line coupling as the passenger side line is a little short on reaching the master. I will couple it onto a short piece of line I have and land it.

-Looked into mounting the 2B IC, the only thing I see being an issue there is the long strap that goes to the bottom mount is a little short on reaching the new taller IC. So I'll find some flat strap and get some pics once I get it installed.

Whats immediately next?:
-Oil filter/ intercooler need to go in. Also need to figure out the intercooler plumbing now.
-Install the radiator with 3B cooling fan and figure out the wiring for it.
-Still want to change the heater core. Not sure if I can get it through the view port on top or not though. Any thoughts on that guys?

Couple pics





The step son was searching a local yard for BMW parts and came across an 87 5ktq. He was nice enough to go back with me the following week and help me pull the motor and harness. We made pretty quick work of it. The wife was on the fence when I told her I just wanted it as a spare. Although she does seem to enjoy seeing her boy working and learning. So i'll take it.

[PRY4SNO]

Making some nice progress. And sweet find at the wreckers!

I'm 100% sure (more of a B3 guy) but I believe you're correct about the brake lines into the MC. L/R fronts into the appropriate slots and rear into a single going through the prop valve.

[Afterthought]

I think you’re right on the brake lines but I’ve converted to vac as well so tonight I’ll go to my shop and get a pic of a 4000 and my urq

[Afterthought]

[auditrippin]

Thank you both! I think my issue was at first I was trying to use the urq prop valve and it had an extra port on it that was throwing me off.

I'll probably be running into a lot more questions now that everything starts to button up. All the help and pics are very appreciated. 7ZAP has been an awesome source too.

[auditrippin]

A little more progress over the last two days.

The transmission is in and all associated components hooked back up. Sweet!!! Had to remove both mounts from the transmission. Set the lump on a cheap cart and lowered the car down. Then had the boy fulcrum a 2X4 under it while i lined it up and wrestled it into place. Actually went in easier than it came out. Definitely less greasy this time around.
Since the transmission was in I went ahead and installed the front sub frame along with the gutted cat and mid section of the exhaust. The muffler hangs a little lower than I would like and that is with new rubber hangers. It's not rubbing on the half shaft, so I'll worry about it at a later date. On a side note, once the sub frame was back in I could remove the engine support beam. Its nice having that out of the way.

Next was to get the coolant system plumbed back in. The lower radiator arm mount was about 2" or better pushed back. So out came the 4' 2"X4" and pried the arm away from the sub frame. Replaced the lower ur coolant neck with the 4kq neck and installed an 82c T-stat. Originally when I ordered the 034 silicone coolant hose kit I was planning on running the aux rad, with the oil cooler in it's place that didn't happen. So most of the cooling system is stock 4kq parts. Last to do here is tie in the 200 20v 500w rad fan. I'm assuming it gets its speeds from the resister in the engine bay. I also feel I'll need to relay this bad boy. Why the stock urq has 3 wires im not sure yet since the 500w fan only has one 12v post and a ground.

-I did get the intercooler plumbing figured out. Once I found the other silicone hoses I ordered 2 years ago it made sense. Before I could start to install them I needed to figure out the starter and alternator wiring. Since I moved the alternator to the drivers side like a 4kq instead of being directly in front of the starter. Well I didn't make a note of the wiring orientation, and got a little confused. It looks to me like the battery cable goes to the (+) post on the starter and then jumps from there to the alternator. The (-) on the starter just needs gounded. I believe the small cloth braided wire goes to the trigger on the starter and the small yellow sheathed wire goes to the alternator? Does that sound right to you guys? I didn't end up with a good pick of this, but I can try again if that helps jog anyone's memory.

One last thing I am going to have to fight is the snub mount bracket. With the intercooler, it's piping, and the oil lines from the oil cooler it's going to be really tight there. I am most likely going to have to trim some more of that bracket down and look into re routing my oil cooler lines.

Just one shot of the engine bay coming together. Just need to hook the vac lines up for the booster and cruise. I hope to add fluids next weekend and try to start it!

[Afterthought]

I can’t remember what sits in the stock 200 engine bay but there are some resistors I think I recall. I have the same fan, in the rs2 fan shroud. I have mine set up a little differently so it is not triggered through the stock switch , my VEMS ecu turns on and off.
I would highly suggest, if I was to do mine again , I would use two relays , one for low/high speed. Just for a second when the fast first kicks on it draws so much damn power it’s enough to drop the voltage in the whole car . Something I still need to sort out . Also I don’t think it’s good for the shroud for it to kick to full like that . I think if I had a low speed setting I may never see or hear the high.


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[auditrippin]

2 relays is a great idea. Im guessing one pin on the stock connector is high, one low and one ground? There is already a bunch of relays under the dash of this thing, plus I will be doing 3 relays for the headlights. One for lows, one for h1 high and one for h4 high. so thats 5 more relays to add to the mix. I may just leave them all in the engine bay just to get it up and running. I want to eventually get all relays under the dash and upgrade to the newer style fuse box though. I am not sure how much wiring this entails. Are the connectors on the back of the fuse boxes the same?

[jbrentd]

Nice work so far! Jealous of your UrQ. I too need to figure out the wiring of the 500w fan, albeit in a B3 though.

[Afterthought]

2 relays is a great idea. Im guessing one pin on the stock connector is high, one low and one ground? There is already a bunch of relays under the dash of this thing, plus I will be doing 3 relays for the headlights. One for lows, one for h1 high and one for h4 high. so thats 5 more relays to add to the mix. I may just leave them all in the engine bay just to get it up and running. I want to eventually get all relays under the dash and upgrade to the newer style fuse box though. I am not sure how much wiring this entails. Are the connectors on the back of the fuse boxes the same?

I relayed my headlights as well. I live on the coast so there are a lot of marine specialty stores here . I used some nice relay box where the lid and each pin is sealed and waterproof and left that in the engine bay, tied in with the stock wires.

Regarding the “new” underhood fusebox harness . My cars have it , they are late 83’s , except for one which has already been stripped and I have a 87.5 CGT harness for it .I have sourced all of the parts I think and I am going to cut the fusebox flange out of a 4000 to weld in . I’m sure it’s a pretty big job but I was going to just have the interior out of one urq as a reference while installing the harness in the other .

[DE80q]

I relayed the headlights on my B3 by using an undergood relay/fuse box from a Saab. I don't remember if it was from a 900 or 9000. The nice part is all the fuse and relay areas were individually wired, so it made it easier to just splice right into them. I then mounted it in front of the radiator with a fiberglass stick to not transfer the heat to it.

[auditrippin]

[quote="Regarding the “new” underhood fusebox harness . My cars have it , they are late 83’s , except for one which has already been stripped and I have a 87.5 CGT harness for it .I have sourced all of the parts I think and I am going to cut the fusebox flange out of a 4000 to weld in . I’m sure it’s a pretty big job but I was going to just have the interior out of one urq as a reference while installing the harness in the other .[/quote]

It is nice having another car to reference, I will probably end up using my CGT to do the same. Although my interior harness is from a 4kq. So I am hoping to get a hold of the window switch, rear lights/ wiper and stalk harness from a CGT. I feel like I picked up a relay board and fuse block at some point just for this reason, now I just have to find it. I am don't recall it being water proof though... I also have been stashing the stock under dash relay holders as I would like to move everything inside the cabin for a clean look.

Your lucky you have some late model 83's!

[auditrippin]

I relayed the headlights on my B3 by using an undergood relay/fuse box from a Saab. I don't remember if it was from a 900 or 9000. The nice part is all the fuse and relay areas were individually wired, so it made it easier to just splice right into them. I then mounted it in front of the radiator with a fiberglass stick to not transfer the heat to it.

Looks so clean!! I have been trying to catch up on your build page, it's massive!! Much respect for all of your 20v love. The 20v builds are cool, but some of us have to stay 20v right?

[auditrippin]

So I just had my 7 days off and didn't get a whole lot accomplished with the urq.

Got some battery cables with crimp ends. So I was able to tie in the starter to the alternator.

Next I went a head and bolted on the rebuilt front axles to the transmission. Also hung the front struts with new solid mounts

Finally back to getting this intercooler in. Found out the front of the k24 is larger than the k26. So the silicone 90 from turbo to metal 90 I have was to small on the turbo side. Ordered a step down 2.5" OD to 2.25" OD silicone 90. Had to trim about 1'2" off both ends to fit, but it's gonna work good.

Now onto mounting the IC. Had to trim up the fork part of the tow hook. Was able to smooth it down and not completely take off where it was welded. Got the IC into place but the hose from the intake won't reach. Had a WTF moment and decided to completely trim the fork off and fold over the passenger side pinch weld. This got me about 1/4" closer to fitting the hose, but at this point it was barely touching the IC. I spent a large chunk of the day trying to be nice messaging the metal, making sure of proper hose positioning, etc. Ended up talking to a guy from 2B. He's like "oh yeah, you need to make up a close nipple for that to fit. We used to sell the proper length hose but not anymore."

Got a couple buddies that build 400+hp compound turbo side by sides, so off to their shop to get an extension welded on. 10 minutes there, done. Head home, fits perfect. One last bottom IC hose to hook up, it's to short..... So I'll run that back to them Tuesday when they get back from racing and get a 1 1/2" nipple welded onto it.

too short....




added 2"




still need to primer and hopefully find some mars red touch up paint


Speaking of Mars, my parts finally have some color!!!!

[DE80q]

Looks so clean!! I have been trying to catch up on your build page, it's massive!! Much respect for all of your 20v love. The 20v builds are cool, but some of us have to stay 20v right?

Someone has to

It has been a very long road, that due to some personal issues may be coming to an end soon. We will see...

[auditrippin]

Looks so clean!! I have been trying to catch up on your build page, it's massive!! Much respect for all of your 20v love. The 20v builds are cool, but some of us have to stay 20v right?

Someone has to

It has been a very long road, that due to some personal issues may be coming to an end soon. We will see...

Sorry, I should of said something like some of us prefer to carry on with the 20v. I only know 20v, never owned anything 20. So maybe im just naive.

[DE80q]

That was far from a shot at you. Most people will tell you that 20v people are nuts becauae you can do so much more with a 20v. I personally prefer the noise of a 20v.

[Afterthought]

That was far from a shot at you. Most people will tell you that 20v people are nuts becauae you can do so much more with a 20v. I personally prefer the noise of a 20v.

The 20v makes a great sound .
Also, if setup right, it has a great powerband , like it seems to come on lower than 20v. Cheaper and easier engine for me to find around here. AnywAy in certain cars I can totally see the incentive to build a 20v, if it’s an urq or something that somebody wants to stay original in , if they like the sound , or even just to do something different . Many of the Audi works rally cars were 20v . I would want to tweak it pretty far from cis though .
I was thinking of something though recently , A way to have the best of both worlds. I was kicking around the idea of making a ridiculous unequal length header and make the 20v sound like a 20v. I think it may be worth a try .

[auditrippin]

-Ended up getting extensions welded onto both ends of the 2B intercooler.
-Removed oil cooler and IC with hoses after test fit to clean up my cuts, also resprayed the front tow hooks and the bottom 1" lip of the front sheet metal as it was chipped to hell. Turned out pretty good, got a color matched rattle can. Wasn't cheap, but the color match seems pretty good. I would't use it on the body anywhere though.





-While the paint was drying I cleaned up the caliper carriers and then installed the brakes. I will be going to the 225hp TT calipers at some point so I did not paint the front brakes.
-Once paint dried I was able to reinstall the oil cooler lines, IC, etc.
-Then hung the a-arms and sway bar. Tried to use new later style center sway bar bushings but they just do not fit right. Had some beat older style ones laying around so I tossed them in for now.
-Tied in some vac lines, does the small vac nipple off the wast gate not go anywhere?
- Also tied in the vac line for the brake booster to the back of the multi port fittings off the back of the intake manifold.
-Still need to tie in the vac lines for cruise. The line going to the cruise module T to the pedal is split at the pedal and hard as a rock at the T.
-Added fluids! coolant is in, had a leak at the freeze plug turbo fitting, just a loose hose clamp thank god.
-PS fluid is in! I have been waiting to mount the tie rods to the strut towers until I got the engine running and pump turning. Since the rack is rebuilt I did not want to damage any seals by turning the steering wheel with a dry system.
-Brake fluid is in, gravity bled till I got fluid out at all 4 calipers individually. Still need to bleed the clutch and get some more air out of the brake lines.
-Fuel is in! Put about 4 gallons of 91 in. Unfortunately it looks like I am going to have to pull the fuel tank. There is a small amount of gas coming through the floor right above the rear diff. :(



-Put the battery terminals on and then the jump pack on them. I would turn the key on and get dash lights for a couple of seconds and then they would shut off. I am guessing the battery is just completely shot. Took the terminals off the battery and directly to the jump pack. Cranked it a few times and she fired up and then died. Did this a couple times until it stayed running. It does not idle very well, but I was able to run the throttle a little bit and it sounded healthy. I am hoping it just needs ran some to get the idle back. Still need to go though some of the vac lines, but could not really hear any leaks. Must have oil pressure as I went from the full line on the dip stick to the low line. I did dump some oil into the oil cooler lines and into the top of the turbo.

-My jump pack did get a little warm after I ran it a few minutes to the point where the jump pack gave a temp light. A buddy suggested the voltage regulator might be bad. So I will change that out and hopefully can get a meter on the car the next time I go to start it. That is if I can get it to stay idling.

-There is one wire I can not figure out where it goes. It is sitting just under the coolant neck here. It is brown with a green stripe. Here is a pic, this is the newer style MC coolant neck and I am not using any of these sensors on it as of yet. The WX neck has no sensors in it.



I am not too worried about the crappy idle yet. I still need to tune the car up. What spark plugs do you guys suggest? I have new plug wires, just need the plugs, cap and rotor.
That is it for now. Hopefully I will have time to mess with it at the end of the week.

[alxdgr8]

Woohoo, good progress!

[PRY4SNO]

Big steps being taken, kudos.

Only thing i can add is that I believe the nipple off the WG is just left open to atmosphere. I could be wrong but that's what I've seen over the years. If someone has intel on the design function that would be stellar.

[auditrippin]

Got the fuel tank out, pretty easy actually.

The good news is I found the leak. The bad news is there are 3 pin holes in the bottom of the tank and looking inside is not pretty. Lots of surface rust. Hopefully I can find some one still open locally that can fix and re coat the inside.

[auditrippin]

At this point I have taken the fuel tank back to the shop a total of 3 times to get fixed. None of the shops I was able to find in my area would cut out and replace the bottom. They hot tank it, patch the bad spots and paint it. The last time they coated the entire outside bottom of the tank. So hopefully no more leaks.

Fuse 7 has a dead short to ground. Its the cig lighter and interior light circuit.... It was so bad my jump pack wouldn't even power up when hooked to the battery cables. Any ideas of common bad spots for the circuit? I already have the complete dash out and insulation gutted.

I started to lay out the complete 4kq harness.... I may just keep the old style fuse box and splice in the interior connectors I need for the dash swap. I am completely missing the turn signal relay that sits behind the gauge cluster. It is a 3 pin relay, the later style harness uses a 5 or 6 pin... Anyone have a relay part #?

My biggest issue for wiring is both of my bentleys only go back to 84, so nothing for my early car. Anyone have an early Bently laying around they want to trade or sell?

For the 500w 200 fan I have narrowed it down to these 2 options to run it.
https://www.intellitronix.com/product-p ... controller
-and-
https://shop.speedunlimited.com/p-12009 ... adjustable

I am leaning towards the Intellitronix, although if my math is correct the 500w fan will pull 41 amps. That is just over the rated 40a of the N4001.

Thats it for now. I will try to get some pics up when I get some better progress.

[AudiSport4000]

Good timing. I found a new hazard/turn relay that I tossed in a week ago. PN is 1H0953227. This is the 3 pin that should work!