2.0L20v90Q...white wheels it is!!

[speeding-g60]

I may cut the hole larger by alot and rivet on a ss panel or something of the sorts there with the hole in it.

one of my "not so important" details to do actually.

[Zerb]

chopped apart a universal muffler hanger and got this little thing left over, perfect for hanging my downpipe from.




and got the wastegate re-route squared away. just gotta finish the vanity plate on the fender for the exhaust exit and ill hand everything off to my friend for welding. then final assembly!!!

[loxxrider]

lookin great

[waxcoupe]

wow thats sweet

[speeding-g60]

fedners..... i like them

[Hank]

Looks good. Just remember that hte header will shrink back ~3/8" to 1/2" based on that design once you backpurge and weld the header and flanges. Weld the thing first, and then mock up your downpipe/wastegate, or just be prepared to oval out your exit hole a tad bigger. I would also recommend prewelding your collector prior to welding out your runners. As you weld them out, they will shrink as well, and usually splay out more then you would think. This causes a permanent stress on the collector if it is connected to runners that shrink down as well. The idea is that you are taking any preload caused my shrinkage out to the best of your ability. This makes tube header longevity go up lots!

[Zerb]

thanks man! ill let my welder friend know that for sure. i want to make a turbo brace regardless once everything is all welded up. and i would have no issue making holes a little bigger once everything is final welded, lol.

another thing, backpurging. the first one we made wasnt backpurged, and we cut it apart to make this new one in the beginning and the weld was fully through and there was no 'sugar' on the inside of the manifold. is backpurging 100% necessary? im just curious.

[apavlov13]

If you don't mind me asking, who is your welder friend?

[Zerb]

a very good friend of mine that welds allday for a living, you ever need anything done PM me and ill see what he would charge.

[Hank]

Some will argue that it is not needed in pipe wall stainless, but I would argue it is a huge deal. 100 % penetration is important as it seals up the stress riser that occurs at the joint. To bring home the point of a stress riser, take a paper clip and a nail file. Take two or three passes with the file in a cut, and then start to bend the paper clip. The failure will always be on that tiny little stress riser.

Same is true on headers. One could do the math, but I bet the whole turbo moves towards the fender more then a half inch at 1500 degrees F. Every time you do a pull, it is basically bending the paper clip. The stress riser locations will eventually be the failure point, ie the no penetration welds.

The carbide deposits from oxygen(aka sugar) is bad if it breaks off but mostly it is just poor for the weld site. It makes for a very inconsistent grain structure and complicates the stress riser even worse. Now, not only do you not have 50% penetration and a stress riser, but that 50% may have carbide embedded in the surface on the backside and only have 60% of the overall yield strength.

If you are not going to use your old header, it would be an interesting hands on lesson to cut off the runners at the head flange. If you tacked the header like you have this one, and then weld it out, you will find that the runners will move LOTS upon relieving the tension of welds.

[Zerb]

its a damn shame i already hacked the collector off and 80 percent of the old header.

[Zerb]

Got the initial hole almost done. Gotta work on the ss vanity plate hopefully tomorrow.

[speeding-g60]

i like the exit extension..... i may make mine further out just cuz....

i still like fedners

[speeding-g60]

HA HA HA HA HA........

[Zerb]

fender plate done.

[Volkcar]

i don't see any fire yet

[Zerb]

no fire yet unfortunately

[Zerb]

so, been plugging away. exhaust manifold is still out for welding, got word the downpipe was done though. intake manifold was pressure tested to make sure there were no leaks prior to powdercoat and install, turns out the head flange warped a bit from welding so thats at the machine shop getting taken care of at the moment. going to try and send the turbo exhaust housing out to swain tech tomorrow so i can get that white lightning coated and have it back once its time to assemble the rest of the engine bay.

got the power steering lines crimped and all ran, hopefully i have everything in the right port on the rack, or else im sure ill be spewing fluid everywhere.




got the clutch slave line all crimped too and read to go.


in the backround you see the coolant overflow return setup all in the bay as well.



catch can is powdercoated and lines all ran to that


each and every single vacuum line is push to connect nylon tubing (air brake stuff from work) this looks cleaner IMO, but in all reality is just way simpler, once you get all the adapters and bungs welded to things, then using silicone tubing and zip ties....this stuff wont ever blow apart.



manually tensioned alternator as well, this is the only pic i took of it on the car, you can see where the bolt is theres a half moon of sorts, loosen that, put the belt on, yank up on the alternator, tighten belt, done. i got really lucky and the belt i have is perfectly tensioned, or so i think, when the bolt is about halfway in that moon, so its not near the end of its adjustment by any means.


lower rad hose all done, and what a fiddle sticking pain in the arse putting those ends on that -16 hose was, i would rather do 10 -6 hoses then that one -16 hose all day long.



other then that, just plugging along, once the intake mani flange gets straightened out itll get powdercoated and put on the car, then i can do all the vacuum tubing, brake boost check valve, etc. exhaust mani will go off to swaintech to get coated as well once its done, then once its back itll be assemble time. hopefully by then everything else will be done....still have to get the vibrant van-jen clamps welded to the intercooler end tanks and then get threaded bungs welded to the top to mount the oil cooler. so i can assemble the interior and try and fire this thing up.

[Golden91CQ]

I love the braided hoses.. I would kill for the braided stainless line for the slave cylinder...

[speeding-g60]

I would kill for the braided stainless line for the slave cylinder...

less than $20 total.....

viewtopic.php?f=15&t=29803

looks good Johnny.... whens it gonna fire up?

[Zerb]

ya, the braided slave line is pretty nice, and it was cheap as well.

it should fire up sooner then later hopefully, just waiting on the eexhaust manifold to get back to me and then i can send that stuff off to swaintech and assemble it all once it gets back.

gotta wire the fuel pumps, and then lay the carpet in the interior and the rest of that stuff back in, then itll be ready to go.

[200 Avant]

Love this project..

I think that I'll embark on building a few hoses for my build. For those looking for a good source visit Pirtek They specialize in hose building and are very affordable and quick. I've had them do stuff while waiting. Remember to take your old hose and fittings as they'll reuse them and also get the bends and angles setup correctly.

http://www.pirtekusa.com/locations.asp


Another source that I just came across for Vacuum lines is Eye Candy. I'm thinking about giving them a try too

http://www.oomphlabs.com/our-products.php

[Zerb]

So. Got the intake mani back from having the head flange decked. Ready to go, almost forgot to drill a hole and tap a wee hole for the intake air temp sensor prior to powdercoat, that woulda sucked. Anyway, first coat of powder sprayed fine, but came out sorts bumpy looking. After it cured i took some 320 to it and knocked it down....which took a while. Then re coated it and it came out tits, just figured I'd share for anyone who's ever worried about sanding powdercoat and re coating things.

This is the brake booster check valve. I found it in the heavy duty book at work, Midland to be exact. 1/4 female pipe on both ends, cracking pressure I don't recall, but it's low enough that when in blow in it it'll open...which is the same with the small plastic stock one on the 1.8ts. Reason for this is obviously so that I can run push to connect tubing for this as well.



Shot of the intake manifold.


Annnnnnnd for good measure another angle, you can also see the neon pink hardware.


Will hopefully get the fuel rail on tomorrow, forgot to powdercoat those two bolts....suck, and then I can finish up the fuel lines, the upper rad hose, the vacuum feed line from the intake mani.

[Zerb]

little bit more done today, fuel rails on with the spacers, throttle body is on. gonna try and bang out the upper rad hose, then run a few vac lines and such.

[Golden91CQ]

Keep up the good work brotha