B3 suspension help

[Lucky]

Im at a bit of a cross roads and am looking for some advice. Currently I am chewing up the outside edge of my tires at the track. I have the camber maxed out on the ball joints, and currently my lower control arms are level/straight across when sitting at weight. This means my camber goes more positive under load.

To fix this I am looking at two products from akmotorsports.

1st would be to get their lower control arms which add a bit of castor and allow for more camber. They are also stronger over all.

2nd would be the tubular subframe. It has mounting points for the lower control arm that are higher than stock which would improve my lower control arm angle helping the macpherson setup. I could also add some camber strut mounts up top for this price point. The subframe would help prevent the positive camber under load.

I guess the question is which will return me better results. I can only afford one of the options this year.

Any input is welcome. Thanks guys!

[PRY4SNO]

While I don't have any hands on experience with either, I'd wager the subframe would be the best option. You can add more adjustability and retain stock parts in the meantime -- which are cheaper/easier to source replacements if required. Not to mention you can still add the LCAs later as well. Another benefit would be definitely increasing rigidity over the OEM subframes.

Did you manage to get any info on the other option from DM Developments, or are you set on AK MS parts? I have no issue with Albert or his products, just have heard his subframes aren't as good as the DMD ones. Something about geometry and overall design, but can't recall exactly where I read that or from whom. Pretty sure it was on S2forum a couple years ago.
EDIT: pretty sure this is the thread I had in mind:
https://www.s2forum.com/forum/technical ... r-subframe

Found he's got a twitter account, if that helps. I'm sure he's on FB but I'm not so don't have a link.

https://twitter.com/dmdevelopments?lang=en

[Lucky]

I'd be hesitant to get something from dm developments. If they only operate on Twitter or fb I'm not interested. That Twitter hasn't been updated since 2017 and the website only says look for changes soon.

Aside from all that the dmd one doesn't have the adjustability in the lca mounts where the akm one does.

I have been kind of leaning towards the subframe though. Seems better to maintain a better geometry in the suspension then just keep adding camber lol.

[PRY4SNO]

Your reasoning is solid.

The only thing I'd suggest is perhaps the engineer isn't as good a salesman as, well... the salesman. I don't think Albert makes all his AKMS parts. From what I can tell, he licenses other products -- no fault suggested -- that he can sell at a required volume.

The DMD stuff appears to sell in volume, and be more rigid/lightweight. Meanwhile, he doesn't spend any more time hawking something online (that's not even actually his) than is absolutely necessary. Just builds stuff. And lets the results speak for themselves.

At the end of the day, I bet either SF will be a clear cut upgrade over the stock option. If I had the cash to pony up, I'd get one. Or the other. Probably choose based on customer service, all else being equal. In the meantime, I've got to settle for welding the seams and installing better bushings from Jared @ HPR. Nice thing is the upgraded SF will easily transfer to my other chassis when/if I upgrade the Coupe.

[DE80q]

I wish I had time to weld my subframes when they were out. As it is, the we're just re-bushed with the HPR bushings and put back on. If I had the extra funds to throw around, I would absolutely go for the subfames first. Get things lined out on the factory arms and joint, and if need be, then get the arms.

[ChrisAudi80]

You could get some lower ball joint extenders to improve your roll center. They would make your lower wish bones have more of an angle.

[Lucky]

You could get some lower ball joint extenders to improve your roll center. They would make your lower wish bones have more of an angle.

I run it pretty hard on the track, that isnt something I want in the front end. Maybe if it was just a cruiser I would buy it, but not for the abuse that poor front end takes lol

If I had the extra funds to throw around, I would absolutely go for the subfames first. Get things lined out on the factory arms and joint, and if need be, then get the arms.

I am leaning towards that option since I can use a more streetable camber adjustment since I wont go towards positive camber every time it loads up. If I go with the lcas then I can run more camber but it is overcorrecting so when things load up it remains at a useable camber.