Josh's 2.5 200QT.

[2.5TYPE44]

I figured it was about time for an update on the project.

Jeff has completed the motor and has it in a crate ready to shipped To Hank @ Iroz Motorsport in Las Vegas. I spoke with Hank today and I decided he would be the next subject matter expert in my project.
I bought the 6 speed TDI transmission with 3:89's from Hank and since he is making the transmission mounts, why not ship the car and engine to have it all come to life there. I have to put the "K" member back in the car and control arms to get the car rolling again so that I can load it up on a trailer or have a freight company deliver it. I am super excited about getting to this point and have been patiently chipping away at a Bad Ass daily driver that I should have no complaints about power or drivability.

[loxxrider]

Awesome! Now maybe my head can get some love (not that I want to spend the $$ yet lol)

[2.5TYPE44]

Yeah. It hurts. Oh well, it's worth it. You get what you pay for. Yours in line next?

[2.5TYPE44]

more misc. pics.

[loxxrider]

Yeah. It hurts. Oh well, it's worth it. You get what you pay for. Yours in line next?

I'm not sure, be he mentioned a customer's project which he needed to get out of the way first which was a little pressed for time. Not sure if that was yours or not.

[2.5TYPE44]

Maybe so. No, he mentioned some race teams that had some tight deadlines. I've tried to stay patient and not too pushy...

Whatcha got planned for your head? Your doing solid lifters to rev up over 10,000 rpm aren't you?

[loxxrider]

Yep! Solid lifters, big cams, oversized valves, porting on Jeff's flowbench, and the rest of the good stuff. We really haven't gotten into the details, but I'm confident Jeff will be very helpful in cam selection, etc. One thing that is going to be important is spring selection. We have to figure out a spring (or spring combo) that isn't going to bind up or do weird things in the head at high RPM while still retaining good control on valve closure (durability concerns).

I've made some buddies who run the most advanced NSMS (Non-intrusive stress measurement systems) business in the world (a subsidiary of the new company I work for). The sensors they use are made for jet engine blade vibration analysis, but they got all excited when I mentioned this high RPM stuff to them. Might be able to find a way to integrate some of that stuff into testing the setup somehow

[chaloux]

That looks great Josh. Can't wait to see it all finished up at Iroz ms!

[EDIGREG]

lookin good

[Toph]

Very nice! Someone's going all out


A little side note, and they look like they're just in there for display purposes, but the MFTS and banjo bolt on the water manifold are switched from how they should be. The MFTS and banjo placement wouldn't make a difference except that the banjo would be way off axis from how the soft line wants to sit. Also, the after-run switch should be the 2 pin unit. That single pin sensor appears to be your .3bar oil pressure switch. Sorry if I'm telling you things you already know...

Oh, and I have extra lengths of the turbo return high temp soft line if you need some. I bought an expensive meter from Audi (only way I could get it), and used about 8-10".

[2.5TYPE44]

Yes thanks, They were in there for an example. I have a mixture of the original 20 valve sensors mixed with some AAN sensors. And hank knows he will have to modify the water manifold outlet. At the end of the day, Hank will have to see what he can use/not use and then Marc might prefer something else brand/location/type when tuning Vems.
Send me a message about the line.

[2.5TYPE44]

some more pics of progress. I like the way the powder coating turned out. I have to figure out the correct way of pressing in the new bushings without screwing them up. I have a Bentley manual and need to read up. I saw online that they have to be orientated or spun the right direction before pressing into the subframe. It is even recommended that I replace all of the nuts and bolts. Seems like a little overkill to me but i'm sure the whole ''stretch'' calculation is important. Just wish these nuts and bolts were good for more than a one time use. I also ordered new control arms for it today. I should have the car rolling again by this weekend as long as control arms come in.

[2.5TYPE44]

it's crated and ready! It's gonna look so much better under the hood rather than boxed in wood. :-)

[loxxrider]

Rest assured that there is a real purpose to replacing the stretch bolts after one use. I'm not a big believer in replacing bolts in most applications, but when it involves stretch bolts, I definitely am! Your money is being well spent

[2.5TYPE44]

Ok, so I ordered the bolts for the subframe and new swaybar bushings. The damn washers cost more than the bolts. I'll put the old bolts in now just to get the suspension under the car so I can get it to Iroz Motorsport and then let Hank torque the new subframe bolts in the right sequence and torque spec plus the extra 1/4 turn

[Hank]

Motor looks great!

[2.5TYPE44]

Thanks, hope you don't mind sending me a couple of pics as it comes along.

[2.5TYPE44]

finally got the parts to start putting the car back together. I quickly realized that a car that is 25 years old pretty much needs every item you touch to be replaced or rebuilt. So I got new...
HR Lowering springs
struts
strut bearings
strut bellows
strut mounts
strut bump stops
control arms w/ new bushings and u-joints
sway bar bushings
brake pads
brake caliper guide pine boots
tie rod ends
sub frame bushings (front and rear)
some paint to make it all look worthy of going back in the car
and a rack and pinion
and new stretch bolts for the sub frame which I am leaving to Hank to torque to spec and I am using my old bolts for the time being.

[2.5TYPE44]

more pics. Getting closer

[loxxrider]

That'll do it!

[2.5TYPE44]

Yeah, just need to get some power steering hoses. I want to add in inline power steering cooler and filter for the power steering pump. I would also like to use something other than the Pentosin mineral oil.

I'm thinking about adding the steering damper off of a V8 as well.

My main concern right now is ordering wheels and tires. I have decided to run 17's and when looking at the wheels, I noticed the wheels that I want that aren't a million bucks, are pretty damn heavy... at least I think so. The range of wheels I am looking at is 16.5 pounds through 23 pounds. And of course, the wheels that I want are 23 pounds. I am worried about the extra weight robbing power. I have spent all of this time and money planning and building for a high horsepower car and I would hate to undo it all by using a wheel that is too heavy. I have no engineering skills or prior experience with rotational mass, parasitic loss, or whatever terminology is used. I do know that I need to ask someone that knows or has been down that road before. I am posting the two wheels that are on the opposite side of the spectrum. Anyone have any advise? I prefer the looks of the ASA AR1 (Black with Machined lip) I just think it is dumb to dump thousands of dollars into a motor to squeeze as much horsepower out of the car as possible if I am just going to knock 50 horsepower off or lose torque by adding 6 extra pounds to each wheel. (just throwing numbers out there, I have no idea)

[loxxrider]

I'm not doing any calculations to prove it (though I have done them before and they aren't too terribly difficult to do), but with the kind of power you should be making with this engine, my experience is that these kinds of power losses are negligible. You wont tell the difference. On a 2500 lb car you might notice a little, but I have yet to feel it on a car the size of a t44 with decent power.

That kind of worry is for small displacement, NA applications (like NA Hondas)

[mushasho]

I'm not doing any calculations to prove it (though I have done them before and they aren't too terribly difficult to do), but with the kind of power you should be making with this engine, my experience is that these kinds of power losses are negligible. You wont tell the difference. On a 2500 lb car you might notice a little, but I have yet to feel it on a car the size of a t44 with decent power.

That kind of worry is for small displacement, NA applications (like NA Hondas)

Not in my experience... I can make my wheels slip during launch much easier on my 17's than on my 18's...

[2.5TYPE44]

Wheels slipping might not be a bad thing. It might prevent some broken mounts or cv axles. I definitely will not run 18's due to the unique fender design and lack of flaring. I want to keep as much sidewall rubber to absorb as much of the road as possible. I can honestly say that I have never driven anything with this much horsepower as this car will have and I will just have to see how the car acts. Worse case scenario, I might be forced to convert to V8 front and rear fenders to put wider tires.

[loxxrider]

I'm not doing any calculations to prove it (though I have done them before and they aren't too terribly difficult to do), but with the kind of power you should be making with this engine, my experience is that these kinds of power losses are negligible. You wont tell the difference. On a 2500 lb car you might notice a little, but I have yet to feel it on a car the size of a t44 with decent power.

That kind of worry is for small displacement, NA applications (like NA Hondas)

Not in my experience... I can make my wheels slip during launch much easier on my 17's than on my 18's...

There are so many factors involved there though... are your 17s really lighter than your 18s? Are tire compounds, tread patterns, conditions, widths, etc. identical? If not, then I don't think there is a comparison to be made. Even sidewall height differences can make a change there. The only real way to tell how weight change affects the hp that gets to the ground is through a calculation or measurement. Transient situations are where you'd notice the most difference though (launching is the perfect example).